Unless you mean the Wilwood setup using the corrado rotors, which I have and work perfectly fine, you're still not curing the stock caliper problem.

 

In my experience, no. The rotors vent on the wrong side, my caliper temps were ~250-300*f higher with the Corrado rotors, and the rotors lasted about 4-6 days before cracking while pads lasted 3-4 days. I did almost a full season on a set of front pads this year, lol.

 

+1 the rotors and pads last a lot longer with the 11.75" Wilwood rotors and Wilwood calipers.

I've tried stock calipers and rotors, stock calipers and Corrado rotors, and now the Wilwood calipers and 11.75" rotors. For the track, the Wilwood setup brings a big jump in longevity with rotors and pads. It is worth the money and eventually pays for itself. Pads are $40 cheaper per axle (compared to stock caliper pads), and rotors are ~$20 cheaper per rotor (compared to Corrado).

And, the quick change pad feature with the Wilwood is a big win.

 

is anybody running rear ducting on 11.75"/dtc-70 front, 10.9"/dtc-60 rear combo?

i'm guessing not necessary, but interested in datapoints

 

No rear ducting on mine. Fronts wear faster than the backs at about a 2:1 rate.

 

thank u sir. not gonna worry about it (funny the rears are almost 2x $$ vs fronts)

 

I can't quote due to connection issues, but I have the 11.75" fronts and sport rears and I need rear brake ducting. Front caliper temps never go above 310*f, rears go over 500*f.

 

Those of you who use your cars mostly on the track, how much time do you spend lapping in each session?
And for track guys who have experience with standard brakes at 200whp+, how long would they last before you started getting inconsistent pedal feel?

 

Could be the aluminum vs. the iron. Brake rotor/pad temps could be even, which would be ideal - the aluminum just dissipates it better and thus never gets that hot.

If you don't get excessive rear rotor wear, I wouldn't worry about it.

 

Like 15 laps ~45km and I'm not even as hardcore as the real track guys.

 

15-30 minutes usually.

I'd say 2-3 laps before the stock sized brakes would go soft.

 

Hmm. dgmorr reckons 15 laps, but Trey, you reckon only 2 or 3. That's quite a discrepancy. 5 laps, I could deal with.

Maybe… erm… maybe the hot Texas climate or some kind of screaming banzai driving style has something to do with the short lifespan of Trey's brakes.

Yes, I'm clutching at straws here. ----.

 

It depends on how hard you go on the first couple laps. When I go out for a time I know at a track I'm very familiar with, I only need two or three laps per session to run my time then go back and look at data, after a few rounds of practice of course. A good example is in the C6 I drove last month. I cooked the brakes half way through the second lap, the owner took about 5 laps to cook them.

In TT we get about 3 laps to get it right so you learn to make them count.

 

I've run 220whp on a 2500lb (w/driver, fuel) miata on stock brakes (1.8) forever. I use DTC60/30 and Motul600 w/ducting on the front. I've never had "inconsistent pedal feel" or any other brake issues.

NASA TT sessions generally run 20 minutes, but that includes the out lap and cool down lap, so in reality there is at best 15 minutes driven in anger.

OTD's are another issue. Run till you puke if you like. I've done a few 40 minute+ sessions at ***** out the entire time. Driver fatigue and cooked tires set in before any brake issues.

Front DTC60's usually last me 2 weekends (2 OTD fridays, and 4 sessions each Sat/Sun). Rears are 2 years easy.

 

It's simply a difference of how hard an individual drives. If someone had a 1000whp Miata, they could make stock 1.6 calipers/rotors last as long as they want as long as they didn't exceed the threshold limit of those brakes while driving.
As you can see from Savington's picture, that's not very hard to do with 1.8 brakes. I believe his car was only a little over 200whp at the time as well.

If you look at the cost of going to the track (everything included) and the replacement/repair cost if you have a brake incident and something bad happens, it's a no brainer to have brakes that work. Add that on top of the fact consumable costs decrease with our 11.75" big brake kit and you really can't go wrong.

 

Six-Ace is no slouch on the track, but I refuse to believe the pedal feels that same at ECR from the threshold braking at the backstretch and into the canyon. I refuse to believe it, especially with the Hoosiers. lol Every time I drove there on anything other than the brakes I have now, if I was lucky enough to get the car slowed down on the backstretch, the pedal was ---- in the canyon. We're talking "this is not fun, I'm scared" kind of pedal inconsistency.

 

Agreed on all points. Pretty sure the Tx crew posting here will agree that I drive fairly hard and push the threshold of brakes/tires/motor/driver at every opportunity. Second place sucks *****.

 

I already have my eye on the prize for Hallett this year. I may need to borrow your trunk, lol.

 

I'm sure there's a Caddyshack quote somewhere that applys (I'm a tremendous slouch,,) but I digress.

It's quite possible that my brakes are indeed inconsistent after the hard braking zone after the long back straight at ECR, before the diving into the canyon. However, since I don't use them in the canyon, how would I know?

I'm not saying that BBK is a bad thing, quite the opposite. Good brakes make faster lap times. Peroid. I'm well aware I'm at the upper limit of the stock brakes setup. Just throwing it out there that they do work well up to that limit (like stock rods and 5 speeds). The lower replacement costs of a BBK are a huge win as well for those that track frequently.

Some tracks and some drivers are harder on setups. Given.

Hustler. Is your setup (front) the same as ZX-Tex?

 

Except for minor differences in the brake ducting they are essentially identical unless Hustler changed something. 11.75" TSE BBK with DTC-60 pads and ducts. Hell we are even using the same wheels.