Don't forget you'll need two of the wires out of the AFM wiring for the AIT.

 

Curly & I will be diving headlong into this problem in the next day or two. Right? Right?

 

Tomorrow? I'm free.

 

considerable progress made with the wiring today. traced all wires from e.c.u. figured out that i got a little over-zealous on the trimming and will need to back track bit on the fuel pump and rear brake lighting. i am running the fan on a switch and perhaps the fuel pump as well.

all gauges are here, as well as mspnp so we are getting closer...

i will mock up the gauge panel, switch panel, and make a pattern to cut from die bond for these items. I might do it out of AL an anodize, or print & die cut the die bond

 

My approach was to disconnect connectors bit by bit while testing functions (car still starts, lights work, wiper works, etc) to find those connectors that seem unnecessary. This led me to identifying unncessary relays as well. Most of the waste is in the cabin, under the dash.

I then drove the car a whole weekend with these connectors undone to verify everthing was OK. After that, I cut off the connectors and pulled the wires out of the harness. The only error I made was cutting the ABS power supply -- hard to test function in a garage. One wire easy fix.

Left to do:
- remove DRL
- move wipers and lights to switches on centre stack
- move ignition to centre stack
- move all fuses/wiring to passenger side so nothing is under the driver's side.

 

the only factory wiring left is from the ecu to necessary functions. removing pins to un-needed wires like AC, PS, FAN, etc.

lighting, fans, fuel pump, rear brake lights, start /run all get new wires.

 

A quick look at the interior of my car. I am going to build a center stack and gauge pod asap for my new switches, gauges, kill switch, and fire pull.

Red: column is clean. drivers side only has the brake switch and wires headed to the fuel tank.
Blue: interior gauge wiring harness.
Green: edu wiring. all unused wiring is coiled. all wiring is labeled. we will de-pin the unused wiring.

 

You will want to use an outlet on the MS to run the fuel pump. If you crash, you want the pump to shut off with the engine and not continue to run after things have gone poorly.