That $9.99 HF angle grinder is still working like a champ...only issue was after the first time I used it it locked up solid. I hit the gear box area with a hammer and it freed up...no issues since. Doesn't even get warm, there's that much slop in there hehe. I also use a dremel a lot (my first manifold was done only with a dremel and those 1.5" dia cutoff wheels). If you're good with a MIG I guess that'd work, I never tried.

I'm using double slips so:
*I can ship it in a real-world box
*It be easier to fit cars besides my own
*looks cool
*works a lot better than single slips

I added 12" of straight after the flex cause I didn't know where Trey's cat would be, he or sprayed will cut and make it work I'm sure. On my car, 9" would be about right to get into my cat which is towards the back of the OEM heat shielding for the cat.

Yours!

 

they're great if you dont mind going deaf. but I think the price goes way up for the quieter ones.

 

Good friggin' God that's nice Tim!

Hustler, I'm loving your build more than ever now.

Those track days should be a blast. Here's to having your cake and eating it too.

 

Everything I use makes a shitton of noise, mostly because it's cheap stuff, and yeah cheap stuff makes a lot of noise (air compressor, chop saw, die grinder, bench and angle grinders, etc). I wear ear plugs and an expensive dust mask.

 

Tim, I think we killed your server.

I'll upload the pics to a public host and let them foot the bill.

 

Boing! *pants moved*

**** on biscuit! That is a work of art

 

Why do you say that?

EDIT: I just logged into network solutions (web host), I'm still using 0% of my disk space and 0% of my data transfer....so we should be fine...??????

 

Explain the double slip joint? How much tension is on the springs? Any fear of heat cycling the spring out of them?

I HATE the way begi joins the to sections of my down pipe using a nut/bolt that is near impossible to tighten because of the location and that it is nearly impossible to put a wrench or socket on it. I wonder if a spring wouldn't work in my situation?

Very nice work indeed!

 

Instead of one pipe fitting inside the other, a double slip joint has a double walled pipe one the one side. I can't explain it any easier than that.

There is not much tension on the springs, they are real simple to install. I have the proper preload on them. No fear of heat cycling, they shouldn't get that hot way down on the downpipe, with only a very very small contact area with an already cool downpipe, and with a lot of air circling.

I think the springs are a better idea than the long bolt BEGI uses, which is why I used them. I don't know off hand the distance between the bolt holes on BEGI's downpipe so I don't know if the springs as-is will work for you.

 

Why is this used instead of one pipe fitting inside of another? I assume that it is superior, but the reason isn't obvious to me.

From the look of things, the begi distance is greater. I've got to take everything apart in a little while, have issues with alignment (which was no big deal until I put in the 3" exhaust) so I might have a go at replacing the bolt with a spring. Although I imagine that two springs might be necessary.

Jay

 

Just to be more cool than the next guy. We (Jesel) used double slip joints on the turbo header collectors on the Bonneville twin turbo truck and they didn't leak. I know some standard slips do leak. No real good reason. More of a PITA to fab.

The distance is a lot greater on the BEGI piece than on my downpipe. These springs are full-swivel type. Each hook can swivel around with respect to the other hook and the spring body, i.e. it's a 3-piece spring. Kinda cool. They are pretty short.

 

In a single slip joint the gases only have to force their way between two layers of metal...a pretty easy task for hot, pressurized gases, but normally not an issue. Additionally the smaller of the two diameters is usually downstream, which means the flow is going towards the gap it would leak through.

With a double slip joint the gases would have to enter the gap, between the first two layers of metal, go completely around the middle layer (downstream pipe), which means turning around down there, and force it's way back between two more layers.

This is nearly impossible since any gas that does get between the first two layers pressurizes the middle pipe, making the seal between it an the outermost layer more effective. Also, in contrast to most single slips, the gap is pointed downstream, in the direction of flow.

 

Car is dropped with Abe for fab work, glory is at my door.

 

So who's actually installing the mani/downpipe?

 

Abe and I did it today. It was a serious bitch to get them together, but it worked out and I don't plan on putting them together again. The car will run tomorrow morning. My dyno date is Thursday night.

 

a little wire wheel action on my manifold:


I need to get some vodka to rub on this hurr.

 

does anyone know which hole to plug on the tial wastegate? Do I have it hooked-up correctly in that pic where the side port is used, and the other side-port is plugged? The documentation with the tial gate doesn't discuss this at all.

there are still 2 ports not described on this diagram.

 

There's at least a half dozen different ways to hook it up, what is correct depends on your EBC and what you prefer. If you had a single port internal gate setup, and have your ebc set that 0%duty cycle = WG spring pressure, 100% DC = max boost, You'd hook it up pretending one of the lower holes is your single port on your old setup. plug the other lower hole. Make sure the upper holes arent plugged or drill a little vent hole in it.

If you want to get fancy and want better control (supposedly), do it like the tial diagram. BUT i'm pretty sure that way 0 DC means the top gets the same signal as the bottom and you have max boost, not WG spring pressure. (this all also depends on which ports you use on your boost control solenoid) The more you vent the top signal, the less pressure "helping" the spring, so the closer to spring pressure you get.

The AEM manual has a much better generic explanation but that obviously doesn't help you much w/o downloading the entire file.

 

I'm running a manual gate...and only have 1 plug instead of 3.

 

tim,
how the hell did you get the center manifold/head nut tightened?