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Yes.
It was quite a few years ago, but as I remember, I cut the old sleeve out because it was mangled.
The new bushing pressed into the bare eyelet.
EDIT: I just remembered a key piece of information.
I had to drill the center a bit because it's slightly smaller.
It wasn't difficult, but be aware of that.
Also go slowly if you do. You don't want to put a bunch of heat into the rubber.
What about burning out the old rubber, and replacing it with liquid polyurethane? (like the stuff for DIY motor mounts).
Tape off the backside of the eyelet, make a hole in it to centre the middle sleeve in both dimensions, secure with more tape. Then pour in some 60 or 70A poly.
What about burning out the old rubber, and replacing it with liquid polyurethane? (like the stuff for DIY motor mounts).
Tape off the backside of the eyelet, make a hole in it to centre the middle sleeve in both dimensions, secure with more tape. Then pour in some 60 or 70A poly.
Interesting thought. You could also do a ghetto shock shortening by not centering the pivot sleeve. Maybe a half inch of bump/shock travel to be gained. lol. It may not help NVH tho.
So I got into making my own Poly bushings using comercial 2 part polyurethane compound. I could get everything from 60 to 90 dur but what did the project in was that it had a knack for cold flowing. Meaning over time it would deform and squish out no matter which durometer I used.
The molds we're easy to make out of delrin, the project had great promise but I was never able to find a compound that would hold up.
How much confidence do you have in fitment of these? They're also on amazon for about $9. I have my eye on a set of MSM billies that need new bushings.
How much confidence do you have in fitment of these? They're also on amazon for about $9. I have my eye on a set of MSM billies that need new bushings.
It has the same part number, but the published dimensions are hilariously inaccurate.
Shipping would increase the cost over amazon significantly anyway, at least to my address.
I figure the aluminum spring seats are physically the same part. If there is any difference in height, Bilstein probably just moved the circlip. I'm willing to consider pressing these off and get new grooves cut in there to make the FM springs work, but I might just go with the stock MS springs if that is the case.
How much were the Maruhas w/ shipping? Putting together a setup on my NA using MSM shocks and trying to figure the best option for top hats.
About $95 for a pair after conversion fees. Set of 4 is about $165 shipped.
Take note: They're only 20mm. Entirely appropriate for fronts. Rears will be up to you. I'd try them, but might not be enough travel for some, and i already had 1.5" extended units i'm using in the back.
Also: You will have to glue your spring isolators to them.
I’m doing 6” 550/335(6k) +helpers
i want to be 11 3/4f 12 3/8 ish
i need to get my collars down farther away from the top hats.
I didn’t see on the 75 pages of posts that you can flip the Advance collars over and seat them on the circlips on the chamfered side quite happily. This gets the collar down another 1/2” or so.
I don’t want the collars smacking into the spring retainers that I’ve got milled into the bottom of my tophats.
Frt/rr with collars normal vs flipped. Also gets the rings lower. Im sure it’ll jam up against the chamfered lip and never come loose. I’ll likely never get them off.
I may just cut lower groove but I’ll try this first. Garrett approves.
Last edited by BAHKACK; Apr 21, 2018 at 09:00 AM.
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