The Better Bilstein Ebay Coilover Thread
03-13-2018, 12:11 PM
#1403
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Miami
Posts: 559
Total Cats: 77
I'll give some anecdotal information. I have the nb bilstein b8 shocks for my na miata as well as 37mm integra cut bumpstops. I have the goodwin rear top hats and have load of travel to the point where travel in the rear is a non issue. My ride height plans are 12.5 front +/-.1 inch 12.7 rear. +/-.1 inch. I previously had nb front top hats. at the ride height of 12.4, my shock suspension was resting on the bump stop. That isn't to say I am out of travel, the bumpstop compresses to give more travel. I took measurements and test fit the good win top hats for the front of my car. With no spring and on the shock, at absolute full compression to the point where the shock is lifting up the car with 37mm bumpstops, my wheels (i have stock wheels). would just rub a tiny bit on my inner fender liner bump where the airbag wiring goes. Test fit with a 44mm bumpstop it ever so slightly rubbed with a tire on at half way turned to the point that I am not concerned. I will have more answers to using a 37mm bumstop with the goodwin top hats at my ride height I want by the weekend ish.
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03-13-2018, 08:13 PM
#1404
Ride height doesnt affect needing extended top hats or not. Tire diameter and willingness to remove the fender liners is what makes the difference. Just set your bump stops correctly and if they're short or dont exist when the wheel tire is about the bottom out then you need extended top hats. As far as I can tell you need them on both ends, you can probably get away without them on the front if you dont go low but either way it'll be suboptimal.
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03-13-2018, 08:38 PM
#1405
Ride height doesnt affect needing extended top hats or not. Tire diameter and willingness to remove the fender liners is what makes the difference. Just set your bump stops correctly and if they're short or dont exist when the wheel tire is about the bottom out then you need extended top hats. As far as I can tell you need them on both ends, you can probably get away without them on the front if you dont go low but either way it'll be suboptimal.
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03-14-2018, 08:36 AM
#1410
...for the thousandth time in this thread: it depends.
Last edited by JoeTheZoe; 03-14-2018 at 08:47 AM. Reason: Spelling; Hard-S not MSM
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03-15-2018, 12:22 PM
#1412
Newb
Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: Somerville, MA
Posts: 3
Total Cats: 0
DIY Revalve info
I've been a lurker on this thread since last December and I remember some people talking about DIY revalving Bilsteins. These links contain info on revalving BC's, but I would imagine that a lot of this will apply to Bilsteins as well. Can't remember what exactly has been posted so far, but found a little info that might help if anyone is still interested, apologies if off topic or repost 
:
DIY BC Racing Revalve Writeup
Shim Restackor Spreadsheet
:Shim Restackor Spreadsheet
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03-22-2018, 10:17 PM
#1415
Serious question: In seeking ultimate cheapness for “budget coilovers”, has anyone had success with tangential-ended springs, ie. not square/flat? What I’m really getting at here, as I don’t recall a clear example of this in the thread, is do we think one could pick up a ~14” long, quality brand coil spring, used for some dirt-track cars or the like, and cut it in half? This would double the initial spring rate, but leave you with an “open” tangential end (like stock NB springs). Now, if that end were set on a ramped isolator, such as the Energy suspension 9.6119G, it would have some support, but would it still bend/now enough to contact the threads and whatnot? Honestly, I may just try it...these springs are ~$10-$20 a piece used on eBay in all sorts of rates. Cut them in half (or in various other lengths, k_final = k_initial*L_initial/L_final) and you have 2 springs
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