I'll look into it later today, besides this thread, are there any others that I should read through for some bumpstop theory?

 

Not that i'm aware of. They're there to 1) keep your shock from bottoming out and 2) jamming your tires in places you don't want them to be. The length that achieves both of those is what you want.

 

I'll give some anecdotal information. I have the nb bilstein b8 shocks for my na miata as well as 37mm integra cut bumpstops. I have the goodwin rear top hats and have load of travel to the point where travel in the rear is a non issue. My ride height plans are 12.5 front +/-.1 inch 12.7 rear. +/-.1 inch. I previously had nb front top hats. at the ride height of 12.4, my shock suspension was resting on the bump stop. That isn't to say I am out of travel, the bumpstop compresses to give more travel. I took measurements and test fit the good win top hats for the front of my car. With no spring and on the shock, at absolute full compression to the point where the shock is lifting up the car with 37mm bumpstops, my wheels (i have stock wheels). would just rub a tiny bit on my inner fender liner bump where the airbag wiring goes. Test fit with a 44mm bumpstop it ever so slightly rubbed with a tire on at half way turned to the point that I am not concerned. I will have more answers to using a 37mm bumstop with the goodwin top hats at my ride height I want by the weekend ish.

 

Ride height doesnt affect needing extended top hats or not. Tire diameter and willingness to remove the fender liners is what makes the difference. Just set your bump stops correctly and if they're short or dont exist when the wheel tire is about the bottom out then you need extended top hats. As far as I can tell you need them on both ends, you can probably get away without them on the front if you dont go low but either way it'll be suboptimal.

 

Ok well. In the real world, ride height comes into play when determining if you need/want extended hats in the front or not. As you pretty plainly alluded to in the last sentence of your post.

 

Yes if you want to save some money it might matter but you still need them to get all the travel you want.

 

Correct.

 

I'm with you.

 

 

I am not completely certain of the dimensions of the Koni Sports (even after a quick search, but don't feel like wasting my time...this thread is about Bilsteins), but the body length seems to be about 0.5" shorter than the "hard-s" bilsteins, Front and Rear. That can almost make the difference of needing extended hats, but again, this depend on the ride height you want to achieve. Put simply, provided the same heights that others in this thread have used and needed or not needed extended top hats, subtract 0.5" and compare to your needs. If you want to be at the same height as others who have easily made stock NB hats work up front and needed a 1" at the back, you may be able to get away with stock NB hats in the back or be able to use a much longer bumpstop (but verify it doesn't compress too much, of course).

...for the thousandth time in this thread: it depends.

 

 

I've been a lurker on this thread since last December and I remember some people talking about DIY revalving Bilsteins. These links contain info on revalving BC's, but I would imagine that a lot of this will apply to Bilsteins as well. Can't remember what exactly has been posted so far, but found a little info that might help if anyone is still interested, apologies if off topic or repost :
DIY BC Racing Revalve Writeup
Shim Restackor Spreadsheet

 

Ordered a set of goodwin tophats. They're shipping seems a bit excessive...

 

Tophats arrived, they came with spring isolators too.

 

 

Here you go:

¥Ï¥¤¥¹¥È¥í¡¼¥¯ÍÑ¥¢¥Ã¥Ñ¡¼¥Þ¥¦¥ó¥È

 

 

$31 each seems really cheap. Cheap enough i'd be seeing about shipping. Those are nice.