I have so many vintage parts on my car.

 

If you get the front end up to five and a quarter you won't need an extended top hat with a reasonable length bump stop and those spring rates. I've done it.

 

For whatever it is worth, I run a higher ride height than either Ben or Vteckkiller2000 and I still benefitted from having extended front top hats. While not "necessary" they did offer a benefit even at what I would think would be a medium ride height. I don't know pinch weld heights but I think I was at 12.4 front and 12.6 rear.

 

Bottoming resistance is not one dimensional.

Spring rate
Spring rate linearity: one spring or helpers
Damping force
Nitrogen volume and pressure balance
Bump stop durometer
Bump stop length
Ride height
Vehicle weight
Added weight from intermittent loads: fuel, cargo, passenger
Mount geometry

So just referring to ride height is only part of the picture. A ride height that allows WRC style jumps on one Miata might bottom incessantly on another Miata at the same ride height.

 

Set ride height to 5.25/5.5 and wouldn't you know it, not being on the bumpstops full time makes it ride much better.

I still feel every crack on the road, but that's probably more to do with stiff 200TW tires that I'm not used to plus 20 year old bushings and an aluminum racing seat with minimal padding that transfers all the vibrations straight up my spine.

 

Just got my billies on and about to setup my ride height. Do you guys usually weight the drivers seat with your approx weight when doing this? Seems like a good idea.

 

I don't bother unless i'm corner weighting. But i'm also a smolboi and i run a lot of spring. Sliding scale from there, as you get more into the "less spring, more boi" area, it might become more necessary.

 

NA/NB sit a bunch lower in LR with driver in car with equal preload left to right. But that's technically no wedge so the car is still fairly neutral. Raise LR to make it look more even results n massive wedge. Meaning the handling is now messed up bad. Corner weighting can reduce that visual wedge and also eliminate the actual wedge entirely. Raising LR and also raising LF to keep cross weights near 50%. So it's higher on left side but handles better.

Our standard recommendation for those that do not have scales is to dial in the exact same preload distance across the axle and ignore the weird ride height even though it burns in your mind. Can't deal with that visual, get it corner weighted.. or buy scales.

 

This is extremely helpful, thanks Emilio!

 

I got my bilsteins installed, first impressions are very good. Very smooth almost factory feeling ride but still plenty stiff when throwing the car around. So much better down the 1/2 mile dirt road I live on. Actually has travel over speedbumps and eats up potholes very well. Can't wait to get it aligned this week.





It's currently setup on at 5.25 front pinch weld height, the higher end of the spec for the 949 "supermiata" alignment (which will accompany this setup later this week).

 

I have come to the conclusion that everyone was right about NA HD Bilsteins. I knew they would ride rough, but jeebus! I am worried about my car rattling apart. 450/300 springs FCM 36mm yellow bumps, ride height is 5.25f 5.5r pinch weld, nb top hats FCM bushing etc.
The handling is great, but damn I cringe when a bad street is ahead. Not sure I can handle it. I am not into them for much money, so that is fine. All used parts, I can resale.

There are some lightly used MSM shocks for sale local. If I switch to those and some twosix extended top hats will my ride quality be vastly improved?

 

Yes.

 

Yes

 

Yes.

 

Yes

 

Yes.

 

All I know is that I'm in love with my setup. See my posts above. I just followed the standard formula with NB bilsteins and extended tophats.

 

What bushings did you use with your top hats? That's the only piece I need to figure out.

 

I used the bushings that came with the ISC tophats on the bottom and OEM bushings on the top. Though you could just as well have used OEM top and bottom.

The bushings had a little 3/8" protrusion and I drilled out the tophats so that the bushing seated into them instead of sitting on top of them. This should keep things centered. Hope that makes sense/helps.

 

I'm ready to start ordering parts and am curious how many are finding a need for helper springs. Also curious where to source the parts.