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What process did you follow to ensure that those were an appropriate length?
I saw that that was about where most people with 7" springs cut their's to. Should I get new bumpstops? Maybe I cut them too short or they could be too long. Here's what the rears looked like assembled
Spring length doesn't have much/any bearing on bumpstop length.
In the case of a Miata, the bumpstops are there to keep you from smashing tire into the body of your car. Eyeball test, those look fine probably. Wouldn't know for sure without the car in my hands.
I fixed the issue of my springs rubbing on my sleeves by cutting the sleeves to 2.5" in length, no more rubbing on the sleeves. You can probably get away with cutting them to 3", but I cut a bit further as I didn't want to tear it all apart again if I was wrong. I made crude cuts with a hacksaw. And yes, the ride will be bumpier than stock, more so on 550 spring rates at the front.
Spring length doesn't have much/any bearing on bumpstop length.
In the case of a Miata, the bumpstops are there to keep you from smashing tire into the body of your car. Eyeball test, those look fine probably. Wouldn't know for sure without the car in my hands.
Makes sense, that makes me feel a little better. I'm gonna hopefully pull them off soon and check if maybe I put a bumpstop in upside down or something along those lines. Thank you!!
Originally Posted by HowPrayGame
I fixed the issue of my springs rubbing on my sleeves by cutting the sleeves to 2.5" in length, no more rubbing on the sleeves. You can probably get away with cutting them to 3", but I cut a bit further as I didn't want to tear it all apart again if I was wrong. I made crude cuts with a hacksaw. And yes, the ride will be bumpier than stock, more so on 550 spring rates at the front.
I see, I may try cutting it to 3" soon, thank you!!
I wasn't aware it had that. These perches are flat across the top. They are held in place with a little allen key bolt that screws into the threads. Here's the link for what it looks like https://www.advanced-autosports.com/...sleeve-and-nut
Thank you for your help!!
If you look at the pictures you can see the hub sticking up that, if assembled that way, will keep the springs away from the sleeve enough to stop the scraping.
Makes sense, that makes me feel a little better. I'm gonna hopefully pull them off soon and check if maybe I put a bumpstop in upside down or something along those lines. Thank you!!
I see, I may try cutting it to 3" soon, thank you!!
If you cut the sleeves too short you remove the locating part of the sleeve that keeps them centered on the shock body. Look at the inside of the sleeve and you’ll see what I mean.
The Advanced Autosports Sleeves are the ones I have, the locating bit is around the 2" mark, so I only cut them to 2.5". For whatever reason, the springs like to bounce around and slam into the sleeve. This makes a horrible metallic rattling noise. I tried adding more aluminum tape as I thought maybe that was causing the spring sleeve to bounce back and forth, but that wasn't the case. I also messed around with the spring isolator, however that didn't help either. The spring was making contact on the top inch or so of the sleeve, so I cut it a bit lower than the rubbed areas. I can't think of a better solution other than to buy XIDAS. I am not sure what kind of hub you are talking about, both sides of the spring perch are flat and don't have a raised area to keep the spring located.
The Advanced Autosports Sleeves are the ones I have, the locating bit is around the 2" mark, so I only cut them to 2.5". For whatever reason, the springs like to bounce around and slam into the sleeve. This makes a horrible metallic rattling noise. I tried adding more aluminum tape as I thought maybe that was causing the spring sleeve to bounce back and forth, but that wasn't the case. I also messed around with the spring isolator, however that didn't help either. The spring was making contact on the top inch or so of the sleeve, so I cut it a bit lower than the rubbed areas. I can't think of a better solution other than to buy XIDAS. I am not sure what kind of hub you are talking about, both sides of the spring perch are flat and don't have a raised area to keep the spring located.
See the section where the arrows point to, these center the springs and keep them away from the sleeves. I’m on the 3rd set of Bilsteins I’ve built using these sleeves and have never had to cut the sleeves and have never had a problem with the springs gouging the sleeves.
Makes sense, that makes me feel a little better. I'm gonna hopefully pull them off soon and check if maybe I put a bumpstop in upside down or something along those lines. Thank you!!
Can't really install a bumpstop upside down in a way that means anything.
Just installed my NA Bilstein setup. Painted stanley thermos green Por 15 on any rust I could find while I had it apart. Untitled by seanbonham69, on Flickr
I'm also getting some rubbing from spring to sleeve. My isolators came unglued right away... Pretty sure that is what my issue is.
I really don't want to dissemble these ******* again, going to try to glue them while they are on the car. What glue are you all using that holds up?
Hey finally got her aligned and was able to test her out on the track(aka: abandoned parking lot) so far so good. Set up is the b8's, still dont know how i feel about these vs b6, with 450/300 and 30mm bumps. I used the spring isolators off of some racelands I had from a parts car, I liked the little locater lip that goes into the tophat.
Has anyone used the raceland helper springs/know the rate? Ive see it mentioned but nobody I found actually did it. Not that I need to go lower without extended hats...
No preload springs snug under full droop. Im at 12.5" front/ 13" rear. 4 7/8" to the pintch weld.
[QUOTE=SeanBonham;1535873]Just installed my NA Bilstein setup. Painted stanley thermos green Por 15 on any rust I could find while I had it apart. Untitled by seanbonham69, on Flickr
I'm also getting some rubbing from spring to sleeve. My isolators came unglued right away... Pretty sure that is what my issue is.
I really don't want to dissemble these ******* again, going to try to glue them while they are on the car. What glue are you all using that holds up?[/QUO Teroson glue - it can glued even aluminium isolator to mx5 steel top mounts without any problems
Got my NA HD Bilsteins all put together. 450 / 300 springs. Wonder what a good sway bar match would be? The FM front bar is the cheapest, the tubular RB bar is also well loved it seems although quite a bit more expensive. Yall have any suggestions? Mostly street car, a few autocross here and there. Keeping stock rear bar I believe.
Quoting myself, still haven't pulled the trigger on a front sway bar for my 91 NA. Any recommendations for a good pairing with NA bilsteins 450/300? 15x7 205/50/15 Continental ExtremeContact Sports.
Quoting myself, still haven't pulled the trigger on a front sway bar for my 91 NA. Any recommendations for a good pairing with NA bilsteins 450/300? 15x7 205/50/15 Continental ExtremeContact Sports.
Quoting myself, still haven't pulled the trigger on a front sway bar for my 91 NA. Any recommendations for a good pairing with NA bilsteins 450/300? 15x7 205/50/15 Continental ExtremeContact Sports.
Drive it, and if it has any behavior you don't like, choose your bar based on that data.
I have been driving it as much as I can. I can tell the car would benefit from a bigger front bar. I leaning towards the 1.125 tubular RB bar w/blocks and the SuperMiata endlinks.
Last edited by SeanBonham; Jun 5, 2019 at 04:28 PM.
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Por 15 on any rust I could find while I had it apart.
