Any word on a flywheel that would support a twin disc clutch setup?
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Originally Posted by dil2502
(Post 1495331)
Any word on a flywheel that would support a twin disc clutch setup?
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Originally Posted by dil2502
(Post 1495331)
Any word on a flywheel that would support a twin disc clutch setup?
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We actually have a completed twin disc setup here for a K to ZF 5-speed. Just needs to be tested. But like ooja3k said, the ACT clutch holds plenty of power. That's what we're running on our 523whp car too.
Sixshooter - we just successfully tested a thinner driveshaft that's 5 lbs lighter and not more expensive. It will be available soon. Otherwise a $900+ aluminum shaft is also an option but I think that's more than most want to pay for a driveshaft. |
Originally Posted by KMiata
(Post 1495350)
We actually have a completed twin disc setup here for a K to ZF 5-speed. Just needs to be tested. But like ooja3k said, the ACT clutch holds plenty of power. That's what we're running on our 523whp car too.
Sixshooter - we just successfully tested a thinner driveshaft that's 5 lbs lighter and not more expensive. It will be available soon. Otherwise a $900+ aluminum shaft is also an option but I think that's more than most want to pay for a driveshaft. |
Originally Posted by sixshooter
(Post 1495358)
Trade me? Mine doesn't even have a scratch on it.
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Twin disc isn't necessarily about power holding. But you can run a smaller diameter disc, and if you get a lightweight flywheel then shifting and reving is awesome.
The 949 twin disc for the BP is super light, and probably my favorite thing that I ever did to the car. |
Originally Posted by aidandj
(Post 1495580)
Twin disc isn't necessarily about power holding. But you can run a smaller diameter disc, and if you get a lightweight flywheel then shifting and reving is awesome.
The 949 twin disc for the BP is super light, and probably my favorite thing that I ever did to the car. |
Does it make it rev like a 1.6?
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Like a 1.5
When I first opened the box, I thought they forgot the flywheel. It was so light. |
Originally Posted by sixshooter
(Post 1495334)
That's going to be such a small demand item you are going to have to design one yourself and have it built, if at all. That's my guess. I'm running 330whp on the stock BMW clutch currently and it's not slipping. There are higher horse clutch and pressure plate options at around $650 for those cars that will fit. If you are just looking to reduce rotating mass then you will need to go full custom. And I would frankly spend that money on the driveshaft first. There's a whole lot of mass there.
Originally Posted by ooja3k
(Post 1495339)
I was running like 375whp and 375wtq on the ACT clutch kit that David recommended and it never slipped at those levels. Shifted smooth and fast, not really a need for dual clutch that I could see.
Originally Posted by KMiata
(Post 1495350)
We actually have a completed twin disc setup here for a K to ZF 5-speed. Just needs to be tested. But like ooja3k said, the ACT clutch holds plenty of power. That's what we're running on our 523whp car too.
Sixshooter - we just successfully tested a thinner driveshaft that's 5 lbs lighter and not more expensive. It will be available soon. Otherwise a $900+ aluminum shaft is also an option but I think that's more than most want to pay for a driveshaft. Also I may contact you about some wiring in the future. The shop building my new turbo manifold is a little bit weary on the wiring since they haven't done a K or Miata platform and I can say I don't trust myself to wire the car up right lol |
ZF 6-speed kits are back in stock! Pair it with our diff mount for an easy PPF delete and it's the ultimate bolt-in drivetrain upgrade. Fancy new product photos finally got done this weekend too:
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...56ec4d8b29.png https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...4ec822ca9d.png |
I'm glad to see more transmission options. Keeping this in mind for when I break my 6 speed. Or just get tired of shifting that thing.
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Public service announcement for people doing this swap. It will be necessary to connect your ground strap that would normally bolt to the rear of the ppf directly to the engine or transmission. Failure to do so may cause wires critical to operation of the automobile to become warm and melty while driving around at MATG. Like a grilled cheese sandwich. This condition may also render certain functions on your MS3 Basic inoperable.
That is all. |
Originally Posted by sixshooter
(Post 1512823)
Public service announcement for people doing this swap. It will be necessary to connect your ground strap that would normally bolt to the rear of the ppf directly to the engine or transmission. Failure to do so may cause wires critical to operation of the automobile to become warm and melty while driving around at MATG. Like a grilled cheese sandwich. This condition may also render certain functions on your MS3 Basic inoperable.
That is all. That's good to know. I remember how much trouble you where having with the fans and A/C and cluster. :( |
Since my PPF goes to the transmission crossmember I connected the front of the PPF to the transmission with a 12in 4 gauge battery cable from the parts store. I was more concerned with mounting the front of the PPF than anything else originally and overlooked it.
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As of this year, we prefer running a cable from the battery right to the engine block. It seems to eliminate any weird grounding issues on these old cars. I suspect it's more necessary with a K series though, as they are really particular about grounds.
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