New SuperMiata Sport Clutch
 

We're proud to announce the new made in USA SuperMiata Sport clutch kits for B6 and BP engined Miatas. These have been in development for over two years. The very first prototype actually won E2 and finished 8th overall the 2011 Thunderhill 25 hours in Bellwilliam's Miata "Enzo". I'm not sure he knew he was a clutch test guinea pig :). We also offer lightweight flywheels to make a complete install.

For full details and specs, visit the website.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1360979307https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1360979307
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1360979307

Sweet.

Too bad its not for turbo applications

que?

lol I wanted to clarify but already closed the page. 260 crank torque aint much on a turbo car

320 whl torque on the 1.8 ceramic. For those that need more we have this fellow.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1360980636

Dammit Emilio!

I buy cheap ass rims, you release 6UL
I buy FatCat Blisteins, you release XIDA CS
I buy Corrado/Wilwood brake kit, you release SuperMiata Wilwood brake kit
I buy ATI damper, you release SuperMiata Damper
I buy FM clutch kit*, you release SuperMiata Clutch kit

I'm starting to notice a pattern here. I guess for the good of the community, I should go buy a 6 speed? :giggle:

* For the record, nothing wrong with my FM clutch kit, I just thought it was funny.

Any idea how the pedal effort compares to the Flyin Miata Level 1 clutch?

Nope, haven't driven an FM clutch. Pedal is light with ours. The diaphragm spring is thin gauge and heat treated. The gives it the correct spring rate without requiring a lot of force to bring over center. Not every clutch manufacturer uses heat treated diaphragm springs so you'd have to ask them.

Keeping a light pedal was the original impetus for the design actually. I don't mind a heavy pedal myself but virtually every one of my team drivers complained about the heavy effort Race Twin Rental and Crusher. So we did some tweaking to what became the Sport Clutch design to make it closer to stock effort. Goal was for a small female to be able to handle it easily.

I'm guessing there's a torque difference between the 1.6 and 1.8? Website says 260/320 for both.

Doh. Typo.
230 Organic 1.6
260 Ceramic 1.6

Those are conservative numbers. Pretty sure a new clutch, broken in properly will hold a bunch more. We guarantee the cover and disc against failure (not wear) wait for it.. forever.

Inside sources are telling me 949 will be releasing their 7 speed transmission right after you buy a 6 speed. They are also developing an amplifier that goes to 11. :party:

Looks good. out of curiousity what diameter is the organic 1.8 disc 215mm or 225mm?

I need a more comfortable clutch, the F1 stage 3 I have grabs hard but it is getting tiring to drive the car with it.

215

Are those numbers wtq or at the flywheel? Either way, this makes my decision a lot easier, was thinking of splashing out for the FM Happy Meal, but $300 for a proven clutch and possibly a cheap 1.8 flywheel if need be, and I'll be quite happy. I plan on hitting around 200-210whp on my 1.6 and I'd like the lighter pedal feel of the organic, should I bother with a 1.8 flywheel for the extra grab?

edit: looks like wtq from what you posted earlier in this thread, I'm dumb.

I would suggest the 1.8 for a street or autocross car, 1.6 for a track only car.

so they are thrust bearing friendly ? Im assuming you guys looked at thurst wear while testing. was there any noticeable wear ?

Not a criteria I looked at. If thrust bearing wear is a concern, bypass the clutch switch, don't put a weak clutch in it.

I can't believe it's orange.


Thanks for making this.

I would think that the 1.8 would take more abuse, are these backwards?

Track clutch doesnt see the slipping or standing starts a street autocross car will. The higher MOI and surface area of the 1.8 kit makes more sense there.

I love a 1.6 assembly on a street driven 1.8 for the great response and faster shifting but I'm also Ok with the noise and jumpy starts.