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~more noob time~
How does preload work? Say I'm running a 550/350 setup, how do you make the ride not **** but still be low(ish)? If the spring is 550lb/in, how many lbs do I add? or should i just immediately take the car to get cornerbalanced at a local shop? reminder that I would like to be in FM Vmaxx range of 12-12.5" front and 12.5-13" rear cause that just seems like a comfortable fun/functional height that is generally accepted as good for streetability (I have a big GV rep lip that may scrape itself to pieces).
You don't set pre-load with a single perch / solid body shocks. Just put the collar at the position that produces desired ride height with the springs you're using. Done. At full droop they'll be slack, but not a big deal for a street car. Can go back later and add tender springs if you really want.
Should have asked for a swap anyways, or driven Cameron's car. He has the same setup as the street car, just with a little higher spring rates.
Performance/ride quality wise i cannot tell a difference between Hater's Xidas and the prior iteration of the Bilsteins.
But hey, scene points and 10lbs lost. To bad it came at the expense of now using the crappiest spring sliders i've ever seen in my life, but c'est la vie.
I'm poor, so maybe next year. I might just pick up the parts do update the Koni's for now.
You don't set pre-load with a single perch / solid body shocks. Just put the collar at the position that produces desired ride height with the springs you're using. Done. At full droop they'll be slack, but not a big deal for a street car. Can go back later and add tender springs if you really want.
ah yea, derp. vmaxx style where the whole body stays the same and you just drop the perches. that's why when you go lower it becomes butt. same with all coilovers of this type.
ah yea, derp. vmaxx style where the whole body stays the same and you just drop the perches. that's why when you go lower it becomes butt. same with all coilovers of this type.
Yeah, no.
It's fine. Don't listen to people who say otherwise.
hmm, correction to the first part, the ride quality gets butt.. with improper bump stops! That’s the problem. They don’t have proper bump stops so the result is riding on bump stops.
I saw a quick price sheet of one order and it was 3000 ¥ for each mount plus 3700¥ shipping. He ordered 2 spring mounts plus shipping totalled 9700¥ (87.49). So buying all 4 for $175 is a bad estimate?
I saw a quick price sheet of one order and it was 3000 ¥ for each mount plus 3700¥ shipping. He ordered 2 spring mounts plus shipping totalled 9700¥ (87.49). So buying all 4 for $175 is a bad estimate?
Spreadsheet pic says 5 tho. :P
Maruha is nice people; quality parts, super kind and helpful.
The point i'm making is that the method of height adjustment has nothing to do with it.
Going super low would be moving the spring closer toward the bottom and the shock travel would be significantly lower than a BC style coilover where the spring is unmoved and the physical shock body height is changed.
Going super low would be moving the spring closer toward the bottom and the shock travel would be significantly lower than a BC style coilover where the spring is unmoved and the physical shock body height is changed.
care to explain further? There’s a reason BC design is the way it is. The logic behind my explanation makes sense in my head.
Gonna blow your mind.
The BC design is the way it is so they can use the same generic length shock body across a million applications without actually having to design anything for a chassis besides top plates. It's not for YOUR benefit, it's for theirs.
Don't feel bad, this isn't something that Jerrick of Meister R fame understands, either.
The BC design is the way it is so they can use the same generic length shock body across a million applications without actually having to design anything for a chassis besides top plates. It's not for YOUR benefit, it's for theirs.
Don't feel bad, this isn't something that Jerrick of Meister R fame understands, either.
What gets me about cheap "adjustable" coilovers is that they don't adjust very well. They ride way too hard on the street and way too soft on the track, and have none of the high speed response of the higher end coilovers. What do average street drivers even adjust (besides ride height because "stance")? I assume its because its the same shock, regardless of car; a miata needs a different damping rate than a WRX or S2000. Going from Megans to Xidas was truly eye opening on my car.
I just remembered I collected all these parts before I sold my last NA. If I get another Miata it'll probably be an NC. I should probably just sell this stuff off. Think it'd be worth more as parts or assembled into a set?
Last edited by mgeoffriau; Aug 14, 2018 at 09:49 PM.
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