I'm so glad I'm getting in on this.

I abhor the stock CAS. I now have a total of 3 of them in my possession after one died, leaving me stranded in the snow 100miles from home...

I am also looking forward to some real resolution, and more accurate timing. Between the higher resolution of MS2, and better spray pattern/accuracy of the RC injectors, I'd be doing my new setup an injustice if I didn't switch to a crank trigger.

I'm not going to necessarily blame two cracked pistons and a bent rod on the stock slop due to the CAS, but my conservative, security blanketed tune ate a motor, and suffice to say I'm not fucking around this time.

Doesn't this work in conjunction with the stock CAS on an NA?

If that's true, would this not introduce another point of failure instead of a redundancy?

can this be mounted on the NA 1.6l cranl pulley as well? anyone know or can compare?

I was going to grind off a tooth, but even then you may be right since you'd have to know whether it's beginning or mid-cycle.

Either way the redundancy is worth it to me for more accurate timing which can't be done with the CAS. Mine varied more like 5* while revving...advance.

Oh, i'm right there with you on still wanting it, i just didn't know if it would save us from CAS failures... of which i've had one too. :/

Sav, we both have '94's, which don't have the crank sensor from the factory. Did you wire in the connector or what?

With the AEM you wire power and ground to the sensor and then wire the trigger into the OE harness. The OEM CAS is 4 wires: power, ground, cam signal, and crank signal. Beyond that, it's software settings.

Since Sav let the cat out of the bag, I can post pics now :)

I've been running the wheel in my '94 for over a month now with 3 races during that period.
Works flawless so far.
I've been trying to convince someone make this wheel for few years now.
Props to Sav + friend for doing it! :winner:



https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...9&d=1280123191
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https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...1&d=1280123191
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You use the connector from a driver side power door lock from a NB :D
Much easier to find one from there than to source it from an engine harness. Once you wire it - it looks OEM. For a really clean install you can use the wire bracket off an NB to hold the wire (the bracket which is held by the timing belt cover bolt). Don't forget to use a shielded wire.

To mount the trigger wheel you need the shorter pulley boss from a '96-'05 Miata. Do not use the longer '94-'95 pulley boss.

Now you owe me a beer :P

Dunno if/how you can adapt it to a '93 (I don't have any experience with the 1.6), but if you want to see it in person - show up at the Alexian Field events at the end of August.

Looking forward to fitting on a few of our cars. Thanks go out to those that worked with us in the development of this item. It's TSE's baby now. Now get to work on that sensor kit Sav!

Thanks for helping to develop it. Thanks to Julien and Jason C as well, they were both instrumental in producing a usable product. :)

Can I ask why you can not use the pulley boss from a 94-95? I put the stock 4 prong timing wheel on my 94 pulley boss and it seems to fit fine.

If you use the '94-'95 boss and you add the timing wheel the crank pulley/belts would be shifted forward.
In '96, with the addition of the crank trigger wheel, Mazda changed pulley boss by making it that much thinner so the crank pulley/belts don't move. All the '96-'05 Miata engines have that new thinner pulley boss.

Or I should've said - you can use the '94-'95 boss but just know that you'll end up with the belts shifted forward by about 3mm total. Use that at your own risk.

I need kit, nga.

Thanks for the response. I just checked Finishlineperformance and they have different parts listed. I did not know that there was a difference between the 2. I guess I will have to go source a 96+ one very soon.

I'm still unclear as to whether this allows you to remove the CAS on the NA. I have a 1.8l in my 93.

Assuming you are running batch fire, yes. You would need to remove 1 tooth off of the wheel and set your tune up for a 12-1 missing tooth wheel.

If you are running sequential, you will need to modify your CAS so it has a 1 tooth wheel and use it for sync, or you can replace the CAS with the base of a 4/1 dizzy from a FWD BP.

Which would be "better"

Sequential is going to be more desirable, at the cost of being forced to make CAS modifications.