Miata Turbo Forum - Boost cars, acquire cats.

Miata Turbo Forum - Boost cars, acquire cats. (https://www.miataturbo.net/)
-   Trackspeed Engineering - Miata Accessories (https://www.miataturbo.net/trackspeed-engineering-miata-accessories-85/)
-   -   Trackspeed Engineering 12-tooth crank trigger wheel (https://www.miataturbo.net/trackspeed-engineering-miata-accessories-85/trackspeed-engineering-12-tooth-crank-trigger-wheel-49814/)

aznDragonX 07-27-2010 02:45 AM

in for a kit assuming this will work for ATI damper!

rbluemx6 07-27-2010 03:18 AM


Originally Posted by Savington (Post 605752)
As far as the missing tooth (or lack of a missing tooth), this product started as a bit of a pet project for myself and a few other folks, all of us using AEMs. We wanted a wheel to mate up with OEM NB cam/crank sensors (I think the prototype car is using a modified NA CAS), and those of us who needed a missing tooth could just shave it off. (It's the same reason there are 12 teeth instead of 36 teeth - the AEM ignores everything past 12 teeth.)

I would be interested in using a 36-1 wheel, or maybe a 60-2 wheel for even more resolution. MS will use higher tooth count wheels, so what are the chances of looking into that. There is a big MS crowd here too. It'll be win/win.

Braineack 07-27-2010 08:19 AM


Originally Posted by Savington (Post 607520)
Sequential is going to be more desirable, at the cost of being forced to make CAS modifications.

As someone who is running seq. injection & injection, I'd say it's worth doing what you have to. Modding the CAS is easy.

j_man 07-27-2010 08:47 AM


Originally Posted by Braineack (Post 607567)
As someone who is running seq. injection & injection, I'd say it's worth doing what you have to. Modding the CAS is easy.

I modified my CAS too - I removed the longer one of the two teeth. It is a 15 minute job.



Savington 07-27-2010 05:28 PM


Originally Posted by rbluemx6 (Post 607524)
I would be interested in using a 36-1 wheel, or maybe a 60-2 wheel for even more resolution. MS will use higher tooth count wheels, so what are the chances of looking into that. There is a big MS crowd here too. It'll be win/win.

None. The AEM ignores everything beyond a 12-tooth wheel and the resolution is excellent. We have no plans and no expected plans to do a second version of these with more teeth.

Are you certain the MSII/III actually uses all 36/60 teeth? There was some discussion on what ECUs like Pectel and Motec use while we were developing this and the consensus was that 12 teeth was more than adequate.

rbluemx6 07-27-2010 06:07 PM

I read on the MS forums about someone who managed to use electromotives crank trigger setup on there MS. I am not too sure which ms unit it was. Gives me hope because my TEC 2 units are getting old, and i am considering ms in the future for my miata and mx6.

Either way, -/+ >1 deg is a subsantially improvement, given the low tooth count. I too will be loking forward to a sensor kit as well.

Savington 07-27-2010 11:14 PM

The AEM can run a 36-1 and a 60-2 wheel too, my question is whether it actually uses all 36/60 teeth to calculate crank position. The AEM does not.

thesnowboarder 07-27-2010 11:20 PM

So for us noobs (specifically hustler and I), how and what would we need to get this going on our MSPNPs?

viperormiata 07-27-2010 11:24 PM

You're not the only one who wants to know.

Ben 07-28-2010 08:36 AM


Originally Posted by Savington (Post 608117)
The AEM can run a 36-1 and a 60-2 wheel too, my question is whether it actually uses all 36/60 teeth to calculate crank position. The AEM does not.

MS1 would only use 2 teeth to calculate crank position and ignore the rest. MS2 or MS3 will use all teeth to calculate crank position.

Braineack 07-28-2010 08:37 AM

MSI:
http://msextra.com/doc/ms1extra/MS_E...l.htm#twotrigs

MS-II is much easier to setup:
http://msextra.com/doc/ms2extra/MS2-Extra_Dual.htm

Ben 07-28-2010 08:41 AM


Originally Posted by thesnowboarder (Post 608118)
So for us noobs (specifically hustler and I), how and what would we need to get this going on our MSPNPs?

If you'll be using a hall sensor, all you should need to do is wire it up and change your wheel decoder settings.

A VR sensor could also be used, but would require some (minor) wiring changes inside the ECU.

hustler 07-28-2010 09:34 AM

MS3 sounds better every day. I'd like to get more precision so I wonder if upgrading with MS1 is a worthwhile idea?

Braineack 07-28-2010 09:40 AM


Originally Posted by hustler (Post 608275)
MS3 sounds better every day. I'd like to get more precision so I wonder if upgrading with MS1 is a worthwhile idea?


seq. fuel and spark on my 1.6L is win. all I need is the trigger wheel and I'm a big boy (although the timing looks pretty solid as is). With a v3.57 MS3 w/ MS3X + DIYBOB, that shit would be retardedly easy to setup.

bonus, if you have extra oil/coolant temp/pressure gauges, you can easily bring that into the MS3 to log...

hustler 08-26-2010 04:27 PM


Originally Posted by Ben (Post 608241)
If you'll be using a hall sensor, all you should need to do is wire it up and change your wheel decoder settings.

A VR sensor could also be used, but would require some (minor) wiring changes inside the ECU.

Where do I connect this potential hall sensor? I think I found my NB hall sensor in my parent's garage, hopefully its not from the VW era. I need to read that write up a few more times too, it still sounds like another language to me.

Ben 08-27-2010 12:21 PM

A hall sensor will have 3 wires, switched 12V, sensor ground, signal out. The first two should be pretty obvious. Since you have a 1.6 wiring harness, the signal out will need to go into the MegaSquirt on the pin labeled 2E in the diagram below:

http://www.boostedmiata.com/gallery2...ne_harness.jpg

Alternatively, you could bring the hall sensor's output to the MSPNP's center connector and wire a jumper inside the box from the wire you used to MegaSquirt pin 24. Either way, make sure you unplug the stock CAS.

Savington 08-27-2010 02:05 PM

I've got both of our shop cars (one 90, one 94) wired through the OEM harness - it's a piece of cake.

FRT_Fun 08-27-2010 03:36 PM

Sorry to whore out your thread but you don't seem to answer your PMs. I need some info about the COPs. Like when I can expect them. Will be finishing my car in September and it is really the only thing I'm waiting on.

Savington 08-27-2010 08:43 PM


Originally Posted by FRT_Fun (Post 622440)
Sorry to whore out your thread but you don't seem to answer your PMs. I need some info about the COPs. Like when I can expect them. Will be finishing my car in September and it is really the only thing I'm waiting on.

Not a problem, I must have overlooked it. My apologies. I'll go find it in a moment.

hustler 08-30-2010 06:03 PM

So as I see it my easiest option to get a proper crank wheel is to:
  • grid the TDC tooth off
  • get a Hall sensor from Rock Auto for $35
  • unplug Mr. CAS and throw it in the garbage
  • place CAS "plug" back in the head
  • wire Hall sensor to connector 2E (Mspnp9093)
  • keep it on batch-fire
  • adjust crank wheel setting (can someone please spoon feed this to me?)
  • hit it with the timing light to set timing
  • add ~3* spark advance back in to compensate for the cranks ~3* head-start/stretchy timing belt

Questions:
  • can someone spoon feed me instructions on the crank settings for my mspnp9093?
  • do you love me?


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 12:08 AM.


© 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands