in for a kit assuming this will work for ATI damper!
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Originally Posted by Savington
(Post 605752)
As far as the missing tooth (or lack of a missing tooth), this product started as a bit of a pet project for myself and a few other folks, all of us using AEMs. We wanted a wheel to mate up with OEM NB cam/crank sensors (I think the prototype car is using a modified NA CAS), and those of us who needed a missing tooth could just shave it off. (It's the same reason there are 12 teeth instead of 36 teeth - the AEM ignores everything past 12 teeth.)
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Originally Posted by Savington
(Post 607520)
Sequential is going to be more desirable, at the cost of being forced to make CAS modifications.
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Originally Posted by Braineack
(Post 607567)
As someone who is running seq. injection & injection, I'd say it's worth doing what you have to. Modding the CAS is easy.
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Originally Posted by rbluemx6
(Post 607524)
I would be interested in using a 36-1 wheel, or maybe a 60-2 wheel for even more resolution. MS will use higher tooth count wheels, so what are the chances of looking into that. There is a big MS crowd here too. It'll be win/win.
Are you certain the MSII/III actually uses all 36/60 teeth? There was some discussion on what ECUs like Pectel and Motec use while we were developing this and the consensus was that 12 teeth was more than adequate. |
I read on the MS forums about someone who managed to use electromotives crank trigger setup on there MS. I am not too sure which ms unit it was. Gives me hope because my TEC 2 units are getting old, and i am considering ms in the future for my miata and mx6.
Either way, -/+ >1 deg is a subsantially improvement, given the low tooth count. I too will be loking forward to a sensor kit as well. |
The AEM can run a 36-1 and a 60-2 wheel too, my question is whether it actually uses all 36/60 teeth to calculate crank position. The AEM does not.
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So for us noobs (specifically hustler and I), how and what would we need to get this going on our MSPNPs?
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You're not the only one who wants to know.
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Originally Posted by Savington
(Post 608117)
The AEM can run a 36-1 and a 60-2 wheel too, my question is whether it actually uses all 36/60 teeth to calculate crank position. The AEM does not.
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MSI:
http://msextra.com/doc/ms1extra/MS_E...l.htm#twotrigs MS-II is much easier to setup: http://msextra.com/doc/ms2extra/MS2-Extra_Dual.htm |
Originally Posted by thesnowboarder
(Post 608118)
So for us noobs (specifically hustler and I), how and what would we need to get this going on our MSPNPs?
A VR sensor could also be used, but would require some (minor) wiring changes inside the ECU. |
MS3 sounds better every day. I'd like to get more precision so I wonder if upgrading with MS1 is a worthwhile idea?
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Originally Posted by hustler
(Post 608275)
MS3 sounds better every day. I'd like to get more precision so I wonder if upgrading with MS1 is a worthwhile idea?
seq. fuel and spark on my 1.6L is win. all I need is the trigger wheel and I'm a big boy (although the timing looks pretty solid as is). With a v3.57 MS3 w/ MS3X + DIYBOB, that shit would be retardedly easy to setup. bonus, if you have extra oil/coolant temp/pressure gauges, you can easily bring that into the MS3 to log... |
Originally Posted by Ben
(Post 608241)
If you'll be using a hall sensor, all you should need to do is wire it up and change your wheel decoder settings.
A VR sensor could also be used, but would require some (minor) wiring changes inside the ECU. |
A hall sensor will have 3 wires, switched 12V, sensor ground, signal out. The first two should be pretty obvious. Since you have a 1.6 wiring harness, the signal out will need to go into the MegaSquirt on the pin labeled 2E in the diagram below:
http://www.boostedmiata.com/gallery2...ne_harness.jpg Alternatively, you could bring the hall sensor's output to the MSPNP's center connector and wire a jumper inside the box from the wire you used to MegaSquirt pin 24. Either way, make sure you unplug the stock CAS. |
I've got both of our shop cars (one 90, one 94) wired through the OEM harness - it's a piece of cake.
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Sorry to whore out your thread but you don't seem to answer your PMs. I need some info about the COPs. Like when I can expect them. Will be finishing my car in September and it is really the only thing I'm waiting on.
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Originally Posted by FRT_Fun
(Post 622440)
Sorry to whore out your thread but you don't seem to answer your PMs. I need some info about the COPs. Like when I can expect them. Will be finishing my car in September and it is really the only thing I'm waiting on.
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So as I see it my easiest option to get a proper crank wheel is to:
Questions:
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