...thread's dead baby, thread's dead.
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Originally Posted by hustler
(Post 623628)
So as I see it my easiest option to get a proper crank wheel is to:
Questions:
This is pretty much exactly what I plan to do...crank wheel and hall sensor in hand already. I haven't messed with the crank wheel settings in MS yet but it's supposed to be stupid easy. This is the first thing I'm doing after COPS *as soon as* I can get my car to fire up. I'll let you know how it goes. BTW...I heard about Mike's herpes infection in his eye...do I even need to ask how you managed to do that? |
Let me know when you get those settings because I'm dumb and can't do it alone.
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Originally Posted by Braineack
(Post 623899)
There are a few things I still don't understand:
http://msextra.com/doc/ms1extra/MS_E.../60-2wheel.jpg |
So I made a pretty picture; notice that #1 is ground off. Are these educated guesses accurate:
http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-..._2351740_n.jpg
I'm still not sure about inverting spark and what dwell should be. Am I correct on these numbers? Why can't I add more teeth? |
spark output and dwell should remain the same IIRC.
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Originally Posted by Braineack
(Post 623950)
spark output and dwell should remain the same IIRC.
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I looked for reference to the spark output, and i see:
Please note that if you are driving the coils directly from the ECU, as you most likely will be if running wasted spark, then ensure the Spark Settings - Spark Inverted Output = YES likewise, the dwell just has to do with your coil settings, since you didnt change coils, dont touch it. |
re: timing belt stretch
Go to your car and set the MS to test mode with 10* timing. Use timing light, look at timing marks at idle. Rev to 5000 RPM+, repeat. Is is still at 10*? If so, no prob, if not, your timing table is offset by that much linearly through the rev range. When you go crank trigger, set it up so it's always at 10* as per above, then fix your timing map as per any error seen above. re: crank pickup - why not just use the NB one? |
that's why I use the timing latency code ;)
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lol, looks like there is no way I'm getting out of buying a $300 CAS if that's even the problem.
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or buy a shitty old used one and cut out either three teeth of one ring, or one tooth of the other and use that signal just to let the MS know where TDC is.
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What's a $300 CAS?
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Originally Posted by Braineack
(Post 624022)
or buy a shitty old used one and cut out either three teeth of one ring, or one tooth of the other and use that signal just to let the MS know where TDC is.
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The missing tooth does not have to be at TDC. You will install the trigger wheel, set the engine to #1 TDC, and count teeth between the missing tooth and sensor. The location of the missing tooth compared to TDC is not important.
Here is the MS1/Extra wheel decoder settings: http://www.msextra.com/doc/ms1extra/....htm#wheeldecr MS1/E decoder settings are kind of confusing. Setting this up with an MS2 or MS3 is worlds less complex. Here is a link to the MS1/E decoder spreadsheet, which helps me a lot: http://www.msextra.com/doc/ms1extra/...eeldecoder.xls There would be no need for hardware modification inside the MSPNP. There would be no need to touch your ignition output settings. There would be no need to retain the stock CAS with an MS1 running this trigger wheel. An MS2, DIYPNP, or MS3 could be set up to run sequential fuel and/or ignition with this trigger wheel and a modified CAS. |
I played with this earlier and its severely added to my confusion:
http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-..._2351740_n.jpg From spreadsheet:
shouldn't "crank angle when missing tooth at sensor" be 120? Are my tooth number labels incorrect? |
Maybe it's BTDC and not ATDC?
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you know, I have an NA cam sensor that's set up to be a sync pulse only from back when I used it to run sequential fuel on my Tec3. It's just sitting in the back of my head as dead weight....
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I have a spare CAS or two...I think I even have one that only returns the first trigger, which caused my failaids after swapping in your old motor. You are welcome to any and all.
Also, if you want to avoid costly mistakes with your motor, we can do this on mine first. I'm not running boost, and not too worried about the motor...hehe. This really is the first thing I'm doing after figuring out why the bastard won't fire up on MS2. |
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