Trackspeed Engineering 12-tooth crank trigger wheel
I'm so glad I'm getting in on this.
I abhor the stock CAS. I now have a total of 3 of them in my possession after one died, leaving me stranded in the snow 100miles from home...
I am also looking forward to some real resolution, and more accurate timing. Between the higher resolution of MS2, and better spray pattern/accuracy of the RC injectors, I'd be doing my new setup an injustice if I didn't switch to a crank trigger.
I'm not going to necessarily blame two cracked pistons and a bent rod on the stock slop due to the CAS, but my conservative, security blanketed tune ate a motor, and suffice to say I'm not ******* around this time.
I abhor the stock CAS. I now have a total of 3 of them in my possession after one died, leaving me stranded in the snow 100miles from home...
I am also looking forward to some real resolution, and more accurate timing. Between the higher resolution of MS2, and better spray pattern/accuracy of the RC injectors, I'd be doing my new setup an injustice if I didn't switch to a crank trigger.
I'm not going to necessarily blame two cracked pistons and a bent rod on the stock slop due to the CAS, but my conservative, security blanketed tune ate a motor, and suffice to say I'm not ******* around this time.
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If that's true, would this not introduce another point of failure instead of a redundancy?
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Either way the redundancy is worth it to me for more accurate timing which can't be done with the CAS. Mine varied more like 5* while revving...advance.
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I was going to grind off a tooth, but even then you may be right since you'd have to know whether it's beginning or mid-cycle.
Either way the redundancy is worth it to me for more accurate timing which can't be done with the CAS. Mine varied more like 5* while revving...advance.
Either way the redundancy is worth it to me for more accurate timing which can't be done with the CAS. Mine varied more like 5* while revving...advance.
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Thread Starter
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 15,442
Total Cats: 2,106
From: Sunnyvale, CA
With the AEM you wire power and ground to the sensor and then wire the trigger into the OE harness. The OEM CAS is 4 wires: power, ground, cam signal, and crank signal. Beyond that, it's software settings.
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Since Sav let the cat out of the bag, I can post pics now 
I've been running the wheel in my '94 for over a month now with 3 races during that period.
Works flawless so far.
I've been trying to convince someone make this wheel for few years now.
Props to Sav + friend for doing it!
I've been running the wheel in my '94 for over a month now with 3 races during that period.
Works flawless so far.
I've been trying to convince someone make this wheel for few years now.
Props to Sav + friend for doing it!
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Senior Member
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 741
Total Cats: 20
Much easier to find one from there than to source it from an engine harness. Once you wire it - it looks OEM. For a really clean install you can use the wire bracket off an NB to hold the wire (the bracket which is held by the timing belt cover bolt). Don't forget to use a shielded wire.
To mount the trigger wheel you need the shorter pulley boss from a '96-'05 Miata. Do not use the longer '94-'95 pulley boss.
Now you owe me a beer :P
Last edited by j_man; Jul 26, 2010 at 02:19 AM.
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Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 741
Total Cats: 20
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Looking forward to fitting on a few of our cars. Thanks go out to those that worked with us in the development of this item. It's TSE's baby now. Now get to work on that sensor kit Sav!
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Thread Starter
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 15,442
Total Cats: 2,106
From: Sunnyvale, CA
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Senior Member
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 741
Total Cats: 20
In '96, with the addition of the crank trigger wheel, Mazda changed pulley boss by making it that much thinner so the crank pulley/belts don't move. All the '96-'05 Miata engines have that new thinner pulley boss.
Or I should've said - you can use the '94-'95 boss but just know that you'll end up with the belts shifted forward by about 3mm total. Use that at your own risk.
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If you use the '94-'95 boss and you add the timing wheel the crank pulley/belts would be shifted forward.
In '96, with the addition of the crank trigger wheel, Mazda changed pulley boss by making it that much thinner so the crank pulley/belts don't move. All the '96-'05 Miata engines have that new thinner pulley boss.
Or I should've said - you can use the '94-'95 boss but just know that you'll end up with the belts shifted forward by about 3mm total. Use that at your own risk.
In '96, with the addition of the crank trigger wheel, Mazda changed pulley boss by making it that much thinner so the crank pulley/belts don't move. All the '96-'05 Miata engines have that new thinner pulley boss.
Or I should've said - you can use the '94-'95 boss but just know that you'll end up with the belts shifted forward by about 3mm total. Use that at your own risk.
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Assuming you are running batch fire, yes. You would need to remove 1 tooth off of the wheel and set your tune up for a 12-1 missing tooth wheel.
If you are running sequential, you will need to modify your CAS so it has a 1 tooth wheel and use it for sync, or you can replace the CAS with the base of a 4/1 dizzy from a FWD BP.
If you are running sequential, you will need to modify your CAS so it has a 1 tooth wheel and use it for sync, or you can replace the CAS with the base of a 4/1 dizzy from a FWD BP.
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Assuming you are running batch fire, yes. You would need to remove 1 tooth off of the wheel and set your tune up for a 12-1 missing tooth wheel.
If you are running sequential, you will need to modify your CAS so it has a 1 tooth wheel and use it for sync, or you can replace the CAS with the base of a 4/1 dizzy from a FWD BP.
If you are running sequential, you will need to modify your CAS so it has a 1 tooth wheel and use it for sync, or you can replace the CAS with the base of a 4/1 dizzy from a FWD BP.
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