Trackspeed Engineering 12-tooth crank trigger wheel - Page 3 - Miata Turbo Forum - Boost cars, acquire cats.

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Old 07-27-2010, 03:45 AM   #41
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in for a kit assuming this will work for ATI damper!
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Old 07-27-2010, 04:18 AM   #42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Savington View Post
As far as the missing tooth (or lack of a missing tooth), this product started as a bit of a pet project for myself and a few other folks, all of us using AEMs. We wanted a wheel to mate up with OEM NB cam/crank sensors (I think the prototype car is using a modified NA CAS), and those of us who needed a missing tooth could just shave it off. (It's the same reason there are 12 teeth instead of 36 teeth - the AEM ignores everything past 12 teeth.)
I would be interested in using a 36-1 wheel, or maybe a 60-2 wheel for even more resolution. MS will use higher tooth count wheels, so what are the chances of looking into that. There is a big MS crowd here too. It'll be win/win.
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Old 07-27-2010, 09:19 AM   #43
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Sequential is going to be more desirable, at the cost of being forced to make CAS modifications.
As someone who is running seq. injection & injection, I'd say it's worth doing what you have to. Modding the CAS is easy.
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Old 07-27-2010, 09:47 AM   #44
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As someone who is running seq. injection & injection, I'd say it's worth doing what you have to. Modding the CAS is easy.
I modified my CAS too - I removed the longer one of the two teeth. It is a 15 minute job.


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Old 07-27-2010, 06:28 PM   #45
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Originally Posted by rbluemx6 View Post
I would be interested in using a 36-1 wheel, or maybe a 60-2 wheel for even more resolution. MS will use higher tooth count wheels, so what are the chances of looking into that. There is a big MS crowd here too. It'll be win/win.
None. The AEM ignores everything beyond a 12-tooth wheel and the resolution is excellent. We have no plans and no expected plans to do a second version of these with more teeth.

Are you certain the MSII/III actually uses all 36/60 teeth? There was some discussion on what ECUs like Pectel and Motec use while we were developing this and the consensus was that 12 teeth was more than adequate.
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Old 07-27-2010, 07:07 PM   #46
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I read on the MS forums about someone who managed to use electromotives crank trigger setup on there MS. I am not too sure which ms unit it was. Gives me hope because my TEC 2 units are getting old, and i am considering ms in the future for my miata and mx6.

Either way, -/+ >1 deg is a subsantially improvement, given the low tooth count. I too will be loking forward to a sensor kit as well.
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Old 07-28-2010, 12:14 AM   #47
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The AEM can run a 36-1 and a 60-2 wheel too, my question is whether it actually uses all 36/60 teeth to calculate crank position. The AEM does not.
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Old 07-28-2010, 12:20 AM   #48
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So for us noobs (specifically hustler and I), how and what would we need to get this going on our MSPNPs?
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Old 07-28-2010, 12:24 AM   #49
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You're not the only one who wants to know.
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Old 07-28-2010, 09:36 AM   #50
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Savington View Post
The AEM can run a 36-1 and a 60-2 wheel too, my question is whether it actually uses all 36/60 teeth to calculate crank position. The AEM does not.
MS1 would only use 2 teeth to calculate crank position and ignore the rest. MS2 or MS3 will use all teeth to calculate crank position.
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Old 07-28-2010, 09:37 AM   #51
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Old 07-28-2010, 09:41 AM   #52
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So for us noobs (specifically hustler and I), how and what would we need to get this going on our MSPNPs?
If you'll be using a hall sensor, all you should need to do is wire it up and change your wheel decoder settings.

A VR sensor could also be used, but would require some (minor) wiring changes inside the ECU.
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Old 07-28-2010, 10:34 AM   #53
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MS3 sounds better every day. I'd like to get more precision so I wonder if upgrading with MS1 is a worthwhile idea?
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Old 07-28-2010, 10:40 AM   #54
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MS3 sounds better every day. I'd like to get more precision so I wonder if upgrading with MS1 is a worthwhile idea?

seq. fuel and spark on my 1.6L is win. all I need is the trigger wheel and I'm a big boy (although the timing looks pretty solid as is). With a v3.57 MS3 w/ MS3X + DIYBOB, that **** would be retardedly easy to setup.

bonus, if you have extra oil/coolant temp/pressure gauges, you can easily bring that into the MS3 to log...
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Old 08-26-2010, 05:27 PM   #55
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If you'll be using a hall sensor, all you should need to do is wire it up and change your wheel decoder settings.

A VR sensor could also be used, but would require some (minor) wiring changes inside the ECU.
Where do I connect this potential hall sensor? I think I found my NB hall sensor in my parent's garage, hopefully its not from the VW era. I need to read that write up a few more times too, it still sounds like another language to me.
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Old 08-27-2010, 01:21 PM   #56
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A hall sensor will have 3 wires, switched 12V, sensor ground, signal out. The first two should be pretty obvious. Since you have a 1.6 wiring harness, the signal out will need to go into the MegaSquirt on the pin labeled 2E in the diagram below:



Alternatively, you could bring the hall sensor's output to the MSPNP's center connector and wire a jumper inside the box from the wire you used to MegaSquirt pin 24. Either way, make sure you unplug the stock CAS.
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Old 08-27-2010, 03:05 PM   #57
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I've got both of our shop cars (one 90, one 94) wired through the OEM harness - it's a piece of cake.
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Old 08-27-2010, 04:36 PM   #58
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Sorry to ***** out your thread but you don't seem to answer your PMs. I need some info about the COPs. Like when I can expect them. Will be finishing my car in September and it is really the only thing I'm waiting on.
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Old 08-27-2010, 09:43 PM   #59
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Sorry to ***** out your thread but you don't seem to answer your PMs. I need some info about the COPs. Like when I can expect them. Will be finishing my car in September and it is really the only thing I'm waiting on.
Not a problem, I must have overlooked it. My apologies. I'll go find it in a moment.
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Old 08-30-2010, 07:03 PM   #60
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So as I see it my easiest option to get a proper crank wheel is to:
  • grid the TDC tooth off
  • get a Hall sensor from Rock Auto for $35
  • unplug Mr. CAS and throw it in the garbage
  • place CAS "plug" back in the head
  • wire Hall sensor to connector 2E (Mspnp9093)
  • keep it on batch-fire
  • adjust crank wheel setting (can someone please spoon feed this to me?)
  • hit it with the timing light to set timing
  • add ~3* spark advance back in to compensate for the cranks ~3* head-start/stretchy timing belt

Questions:
  • can someone spoon feed me instructions on the crank settings for my mspnp9093?
  • do you love me?
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