Trackspeed Engineering 12-tooth crank trigger wheel
07-27-2010, 03:18 AM
#42
As far as the missing tooth (or lack of a missing tooth), this product started as a bit of a pet project for myself and a few other folks, all of us using AEMs. We wanted a wheel to mate up with OEM NB cam/crank sensors (I think the prototype car is using a modified NA CAS), and those of us who needed a missing tooth could just shave it off. (It's the same reason there are 12 teeth instead of 36 teeth - the AEM ignores everything past 12 teeth.)
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07-27-2010, 05:28 PM
#45
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Are you certain the MSII/III actually uses all 36/60 teeth? There was some discussion on what ECUs like Pectel and Motec use while we were developing this and the consensus was that 12 teeth was more than adequate.
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07-27-2010, 06:07 PM
#46
I read on the MS forums about someone who managed to use electromotives crank trigger setup on there MS. I am not too sure which ms unit it was. Gives me hope because my TEC 2 units are getting old, and i am considering ms in the future for my miata and mx6.
Either way, -/+ >1 deg is a subsantially improvement, given the low tooth count. I too will be loking forward to a sensor kit as well.
Either way, -/+ >1 deg is a subsantially improvement, given the low tooth count. I too will be loking forward to a sensor kit as well.
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07-28-2010, 08:37 AM
#51
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MSI:
http://msextra.com/doc/ms1extra/MS_E...l.htm#twotrigs
MS-II is much easier to setup:
http://msextra.com/doc/ms2extra/MS2-Extra_Dual.htm
http://msextra.com/doc/ms1extra/MS_E...l.htm#twotrigs
MS-II is much easier to setup:
http://msextra.com/doc/ms2extra/MS2-Extra_Dual.htm
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07-28-2010, 08:41 AM
#52
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A VR sensor could also be used, but would require some (minor) wiring changes inside the ECU.
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07-28-2010, 09:40 AM
#54
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seq. fuel and spark on my 1.6L is win. all I need is the trigger wheel and I'm a big boy (although the timing looks pretty solid as is). With a v3.57 MS3 w/ MS3X + DIYBOB, that **** would be retardedly easy to setup.
bonus, if you have extra oil/coolant temp/pressure gauges, you can easily bring that into the MS3 to log...
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08-26-2010, 04:27 PM
#55
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Where do I connect this potential hall sensor? I think I found my NB hall sensor in my parent's garage, hopefully its not from the VW era. I need to read that write up a few more times too, it still sounds like another language to me.
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08-27-2010, 12:21 PM
#56
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A hall sensor will have 3 wires, switched 12V, sensor ground, signal out. The first two should be pretty obvious. Since you have a 1.6 wiring harness, the signal out will need to go into the MegaSquirt on the pin labeled 2E in the diagram below:
Alternatively, you could bring the hall sensor's output to the MSPNP's center connector and wire a jumper inside the box from the wire you used to MegaSquirt pin 24. Either way, make sure you unplug the stock CAS.
Alternatively, you could bring the hall sensor's output to the MSPNP's center connector and wire a jumper inside the box from the wire you used to MegaSquirt pin 24. Either way, make sure you unplug the stock CAS.
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08-27-2010, 03:36 PM
#58
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Sorry to ***** out your thread but you don't seem to answer your PMs. I need some info about the COPs. Like when I can expect them. Will be finishing my car in September and it is really the only thing I'm waiting on.
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08-30-2010, 06:03 PM
#60
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So as I see it my easiest option to get a proper crank wheel is to:
Questions:
- grid the TDC tooth off
- get a Hall sensor from Rock Auto for $35
- unplug Mr. CAS and throw it in the garbage
- place CAS "plug" back in the head
- wire Hall sensor to connector 2E (Mspnp9093)
- keep it on batch-fire
- adjust crank wheel setting (can someone please spoon feed this to me?)
- hit it with the timing light to set timing
- add ~3* spark advance back in to compensate for the cranks ~3* head-start/stretchy timing belt
Questions:
- can someone spoon feed me instructions on the crank settings for my mspnp9093?
- do you love me?
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