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Just read through the first 9 pages of this and pay attention to the timeframe, pricing, distribution and the changing spec, you might get an idea. It was not a process we wanted to repeat. From a business standpoint, it wasn't a great experience.
We are a Tire Rack dealer so we have access to everything they sell at the same price. We've also become the largest 6UL dealer in the world with a massive inventory. But no more Jongbloeds.
Just noticed the Storm S1 vs. S2 discussion above. If you are considering a Storm wheel for track use, consider my experience with them (spoiler -- I switched to the S2):
If they do come back with the lighter weight, expect the price to go up.
We have discovered that the 15x8 don't clear factory Sport braces without a low profile banjo bolt - same as with the TRM wheels. Easy fix, just use a low profile banjo like the one we sell. I suspect that most stainless brake lines come with the lower profile bolt as well, I know ours do.
Sorry to dredge this up, but do the current offerings still have this issue? Are you talking about the underbody braces, Keith?
Picked up a set of the 10's, surprisingly I haven't found many photos of NB's with stock fenders (Rolled not flared). Even more surprising is these don't rub, I'm still going to pull the springs and check out clearance but it seems that the rear wheels tuck in just enough to clear the flat lip, fronts are fine.
These are 245 RS4's that are about half worn, swapping them off a set of 9" 6UL's. I'm only running 2.75* in the front and 2.25* in the rear, I'm running 1000/500 springs now so I'm going to see if I can get away with less camber than I was running before (3.25/2.75) to try and improve braking performance. Worth mentioning I also built adjustable front and rear upper control arms so I've got the eccentrics pushed all the way out and camber dialed in with the upper arms. I may try to put the rear eccentrics all the way in and adjust camber from there, might be able to tuck the wheel in a 1/4".
Wow. That makes me wonder even more what's wrong with Ben's setup.
Was Ben the one who thought he got the E30 fitment versions? I have a buddy who let me borrow is E30 offset (10mm) just to see how bad it was, here's a comparison from above on the front.
We have opposite things going on really. He's consciously adjusted his arms for wheel clearance, while i've suffered a death by a thousand cuts with any number of things adding up a millimeter here, millimeter there. Next time i'm ready for an alignment i'll shorten some stuff up a tad, but otherwise i'm just rockin' it as is. Looks dumb, feels fine.
Hey guys, think that the +10 offset wheels could be machined to the +20/25 offset required for the miata? Is it the same casting with a thicker hub?
Thanks!
I thought the same thing, but it didn't appear that was the case. Even if it was, the lug nut seat is machined to give a set thickness so you don't need extended studs
studs. Buy the Miata offset and use spacers to fit on an E30. Or just use the E30 offset and flares.
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