New project begun, gurus look here!!!
08-31-2006, 09:42 AM
#81
Former Vendor
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Bell Tuning & Performance
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[QUOTE=samnavy;42377]
The lower radiator/coolant tube will be in the way, if you clock the turbo downwards. It can be re-routed though.
Only one reported problem, and that was after we posted no reported problems. But Corky seems to think that it was caused by him timing adjustment and not a bad casting. Corky is revising his "MaximumBoost" book and will be done shortly. Go buy it, and you'll be a friend for life. 
I think that the hose coming off of the thermostat is 5/16" not 3/8". If the turbo already has fittings, be sure to check and make sure they are not clogged and/or tightened securely.
If you can't find the correct port, shoot me an e-mail. I have lots of photos I could send to help you out. Same with tapping the oil pan.
You are better of with the regular FMU/FPR. The MR will work, but is not the best choice for you application.
Run it to the compressor inlet tube.
5/32" ID. All auto parts stores have it.
Custom Fab. Or buy pre-made in and out of intercooler, then custom fab turbo outlet and throttle inlet.
K&N
Hope that helps.
Stephanie
Turbo: SR20det T25. It should start to spool around 2k and reach full boost at 3k. They’re dirt cheap. Every dude who imports a JDM SR20det takes the stock turbo off and puts on a T28 or T3. These things go for $100-$150 and are usually in great shape. I will need to clock the compressor so the outlet faces down which might present a wastegate placement issue, but I won’t know until I get it as I haven’t actually ever seen one in person. They are water cooled, oil lubed, and should have no problem getting me the 8/9psi I need.
Manifold: From Begi, bought a T25 mani who still had a couple on the shelf (probably all gone now but you can call. $266 shipped). The Begi as far as I can tell has never had a single complaint about it. It should last forever. All the other options I searched led me to “issues”. Plus, I think at some point or another we all owe Corky a little of our money for the awesome work he’s done for the hobby in general.
WATER: After much hair pulling and having about 20 iExplorer windows open at once, I’ve decided the best (read: easiest but just fine and cheap) is to go with the 3/8” hose that OG linked from the McMasters website. It think it will take about four feet of line which should be about $25. That hose will last as long as I need it to and the turbo will probably come with fittings on it that I can slide the hose onto and secure with a hoseclamp. Tapping the water source off of the pump neck is a simple job, but routing the lines around the turbo will take a little "carefulness."
OIL: The feed line needs to be braided but the drain line does not. I’m going to get one of the 4an Feed Kits and 10an Drain Kits from turbo-supply.com and be done with it. Total for all water/oil lines +/-$70 and they’ll last as long as I own the car and I can stop worrying about it. Taking a feed off the block requires a M10x1.5 metric to AN fitting. Tapping the oil pan for the drain has been extensively documented and just requires you to go slow and be careful.
Fuel: The Begi AFPR appears to be the Miata DIY standard device by which all others are compared. I don’t know anything about tuning it yet, but as far as mechanical fuel control, I don’t think you can do better. This in conjunction with the 1.8 injectors and a Walbro 190lph HP in tank pump appear to be the simplest way to get enough properly metered fuel into the engine. There are a few variations on this theme, but you can’t argue with the ease if you’re just after 180hp… and it’s cheap. A dual feed fuel rail seems like the way to go. It costs about $10 and might just save you an engine. It’s not really worth debating. I’m doing it.
ISSUES STILL OUTSTANDING:
#1: On some cars, I see the breather line on the valve cover above the turbo has been replaced by a small filter and no line. On other cars and what has been recommended is that I route a line from that breather port into the intake between the MAF and turbo? What does that port really do and does it need a line or can I get away with a small breather?
#1: On some cars, I see the breather line on the valve cover above the turbo has been replaced by a small filter and no line. On other cars and what has been recommended is that I route a line from that breather port into the intake between the MAF and turbo? What does that port really do and does it need a line or can I get away with a small breather?
#3: What are the size of the stock vacuum lines running around the engine bay. If I just wanted to buy a 20ft length of tube to cut up for the various runs, what size is recommended?
#4: What intercooler pipes to buy. EBay universal kit? Custom fab at a local shop?
#5: Cheap hi-flo conical filter. K&N is nice, but I can do just as good for cheaper. Recommend a brand please.
Hope that helps.
Stephanie
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08-31-2006, 10:10 AM
#82
Sam you have a lot to digest. A lot of this "little" stuff changes because of unforseen isues or sometimes your head comes up with revised ideas. Physically get the major components first: turbo, mani, downpipe.
Make some room on a workbench or whatever, assemble them together to test fit them. It gives you an idea of how it's going to look and fit together. Work on the small stuff with this assembly to get it nailed down: studs, hardware, WGA location, clocking the turbo, WG bracket, lines and adapters.
when you have that nailed, move onto the next component system. i found that if you work on the subassemblies, it makes the entire project more manageable and you're less likely to overlook something. writing down lists and notes really helps a lot.
I think what you're doing is smart, but sometimes I think going out and buying off the shelf stuff here and there can create scenario where you take 3 steps forward and 1 step back because some of the stuff you already have might not work the way you envisioned or you start to narrow down your options because you have already bought this or that and you stick with them because you already bought them. with your low budget, this is even MORE important because you'll want to do it right the first time.
if you go with a custom intercooler configuration, you have to expect some downtime on the car. if it's a daily driver, maybe a prefab kit might cost more, but it's done and easy to install, minimizing the time it's parked.
Make some room on a workbench or whatever, assemble them together to test fit them. It gives you an idea of how it's going to look and fit together. Work on the small stuff with this assembly to get it nailed down: studs, hardware, WGA location, clocking the turbo, WG bracket, lines and adapters.
when you have that nailed, move onto the next component system. i found that if you work on the subassemblies, it makes the entire project more manageable and you're less likely to overlook something. writing down lists and notes really helps a lot.
I think what you're doing is smart, but sometimes I think going out and buying off the shelf stuff here and there can create scenario where you take 3 steps forward and 1 step back because some of the stuff you already have might not work the way you envisioned or you start to narrow down your options because you have already bought this or that and you stick with them because you already bought them. with your low budget, this is even MORE important because you'll want to do it right the first time.
if you go with a custom intercooler configuration, you have to expect some downtime on the car. if it's a daily driver, maybe a prefab kit might cost more, but it's done and easy to install, minimizing the time it's parked.
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08-31-2006, 01:21 PM
#83
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2005
Posts: 1,167
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wOw !!! seriously alot of helpful info here...I have a ? out curiosity...if I use stainless steel braided lines for all oi feed/return lines as well as my water lines, what are the recommended lengths i need, along with proper fittings to tackle all this On my 1.8 ,Im looking for reccomendations not ansewers
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08-31-2006, 02:36 PM
#86
If it ends up working, I have an easily swappable toy to make it loud/quiet.
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08-31-2006, 02:46 PM
#88
wOw !!! seriously alot of helpful info here...I have a ? out curiosity...if I use stainless steel braided lines for all oi feed/return lines as well as my water lines, what are the recommended lengths i need, along with proper fittings to tackle all this On my 1.8 ,Im looking for reccomendations not ansewers
basically, what we did was remove the intake manifold to access the tap better. after that, we removed the oil pressure sender (at the base, not on the plastic), assembled the brass "T" and fittings provided (one had a fitting to accept the sender, the other had an NPT to -AN fitting adapter) installed it in the sender tap, installed the sensor and 4' (it was 48-54" long, iirc) braided line. we ran the line over the top of the transmission bell housinh and up under the heater core hoses. we reinstalled the intake manifold and went from there. it's a pretty long line, so i would prime it before actually running the engine.
on my oil return line for my gt25 on an FM mani, I use an 18" -10AN braided line.
for coolant lines i am not sure of the lengths.
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08-31-2006, 03:20 PM
#90
I honestly find loud BOV to be really annoying, it just seems like a big sign that says I have a turbo.
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08-31-2006, 04:08 PM
#92
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Join Date: Dec 2005
Posts: 1,167
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When I had my BOV VTA I had every ricer idiot in the 96 sunfire wanting to race me. "Ohhh it's a turbo, bet I can take him" ... uhuh. I'm tempted to ditch my a-pillar boost gauge for the same reason.
I honestly find loud BOV to be really annoying, it just seems like a big sign that says I have a turbo.
I honestly find loud BOV to be really annoying, it just seems like a big sign that says I have a turbo.
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08-31-2006, 09:18 PM
#93
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WOW, I get stuck flying all day and there's a whole other page when I get home.
JayC: I will get an MBC. I will route the ValveCover breather to the intake. I will plum the BOV for recirc... but at least once I'm going to take the pipe off to see how it sounds. Banjo is an alternative to AN. Autometer has quality control issues.
Steph: Sorry you weren't there when I called the other day, Mary helped me out... and I may hit you up for those pics just for my archive. Once I decide whether or not I'm going to keep my AC, I'll look into replacing the stock radiator hose with one more convenient. I understand all the other stuff, thanks. Looks like a K&N is the universal choice for filters.
KFJ, those little "gems" of knowledge are great. I should be able to put the car up on jacks for a week if needed to sort everything out. I know the motto, DO IT ONCE, DO IT RIGHT. The IC piping is really the only thing I have to outsource, unless I go w/couplers and don't weld it. In fact, the piping will have to be last.
NEWB, I'm having trouble finding NEW oem BOV's on eBay. I guess it's just not the week for those.
When I had my BOV VTA I had every ricer idiot in the 96 sunfire wanting to race me. "Ohhh it's a turbo, bet I can take him" ... uhuh. I'm tempted to ditch my a-pillar boost gauge for the same reason.
I'm all about stealth!!!
OK, back to searching, eBay, classifieds, and sleep.
JayC: I will get an MBC. I will route the ValveCover breather to the intake. I will plum the BOV for recirc... but at least once I'm going to take the pipe off to see how it sounds. Banjo is an alternative to AN. Autometer has quality control issues.
Steph: Sorry you weren't there when I called the other day, Mary helped me out... and I may hit you up for those pics just for my archive. Once I decide whether or not I'm going to keep my AC, I'll look into replacing the stock radiator hose with one more convenient. I understand all the other stuff, thanks. Looks like a K&N is the universal choice for filters.
KFJ, those little "gems" of knowledge are great. I should be able to put the car up on jacks for a week if needed to sort everything out. I know the motto, DO IT ONCE, DO IT RIGHT. The IC piping is really the only thing I have to outsource, unless I go w/couplers and don't weld it. In fact, the piping will have to be last.
NEWB, I'm having trouble finding NEW oem BOV's on eBay. I guess it's just not the week for those.
When I had my BOV VTA I had every ricer idiot in the 96 sunfire wanting to race me. "Ohhh it's a turbo, bet I can take him" ... uhuh. I'm tempted to ditch my a-pillar boost gauge for the same reason.
I'm all about stealth!!!
OK, back to searching, eBay, classifieds, and sleep.
Last edited by samnavy; 09-04-2006 at 10:03 PM.
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08-31-2006, 09:28 PM
#94
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2005
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hey Tom I found the perfect site for the water and oil fittings on this site for the sr turbos
http://www.customsteel.com/sr20/html..._fittings.html
http://www.customsteel.com/sr20/html..._fittings.html
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08-31-2006, 10:03 PM
#95
I don't mind all the attention I get from ricers on the street, all their **** talking makes it even more satisfying leaving them in the dust with their jaws dropped acting like wHat the **** just happen...some people are surprised of how fast these little cars go with full headers ,intake and exhaust...Im not! I want more power!!
I still drive like a thug now and then, but I don't like to attract attention. I went to an RX7 club autocross this past weekend. All the talk of big horse power and how fast they were and the mad skillz and all that. No one gave my Miata even a second look. There was also a GT3 there. They all paid attention when I was 3 sec (1:13) ahead of the GT3 (The course wasn't suited to his car, the guy could drive though and I expected to have my *** handed to me) and 10 sec faster than the next car. Well at least until the course was destroyed and everyone was skipping the slaloms (no marshals and they were slow to reset the course). I'm not the world's greatest driver, but it was nice to put some people in their place. All this and the car was running like a bag of pooh once it got really hot.
Jay
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09-01-2006, 07:29 AM
#96
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I'm with you right there. The last few autocrosses I've been to the local WRX/EVO hooligans have been out in force. I'm right in the hunt with those guys. One of them came over and asked what I was running. He made me open the hood to prove it when I told him "stock"... but not for long.
My Begi manifold showed up yesterday. BEAUTIFUL!
My Begi manifold showed up yesterday. BEAUTIFUL!
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09-03-2006, 07:00 PM
#97
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All right, Ebay is good for some things, but apparently not for cheap turbo's this week. Check out my T25 ad in the classifieds... YOU IN?
I was in a wedding in DC yesterday and couldn't think about anything except the damn car.
"So Sam, how have you been?"
"I've been great, thanks for boosting... I mean asking?"
"Sam, I haven't seen you in years, how is work?"
"Wonderful, yesterday I picked up a blow off valve on the radar."
Braineak I've taken the whole week off. I'm not going anywhere, but I've got 60 days of leave stacked up and I'm on shore duty... so I'm OFF!!! I've got dinner with some former squadronmates on Tuesday near Arlington, you busy that day?
BACK TO TURBO STUFF!
-Any reason I can't build and install my DualFeedFuelRail, Begi AFPR, and Walbro this week while still NA. I know I could install the Bipes, but I haven't found one yet!
-I went by Advance and Autozone just to see what kinds of things they had I might be able to source locally. The only things I found were vacuum lines and the fuel lines. I couldn't remember the sizes, so I passed. But other than that, they didn't have crap. The guy behind the counter had a mild SRT-4 in the parking lot and he said... online and ebay. Don't even bother with a store, unless it's a dedicated import performance parts store... and that there weren't any in Hampton Roads. I guess I'm limited to the internet after all... not so bad.
I've got the chance to source some 305 green top injectors for a decent price. We had talked back on the first page of this thread, that the 1.8's would be enough for my power needs, and that the only real problem with the 305's would be an idle issue that is easily solved by tuning the spring tension on the MAF. Can anybody say "Don't get the 305's, stick w/1.8's and heres why..." or can I get these 305's and feel confident about it.
I was in a wedding in DC yesterday and couldn't think about anything except the damn car.
"So Sam, how have you been?"
"I've been great, thanks for boosting... I mean asking?"
"Sam, I haven't seen you in years, how is work?"
"Wonderful, yesterday I picked up a blow off valve on the radar."
Braineak I've taken the whole week off. I'm not going anywhere, but I've got 60 days of leave stacked up and I'm on shore duty... so I'm OFF!!! I've got dinner with some former squadronmates on Tuesday near Arlington, you busy that day?
BACK TO TURBO STUFF!
-Any reason I can't build and install my DualFeedFuelRail, Begi AFPR, and Walbro this week while still NA. I know I could install the Bipes, but I haven't found one yet!
-I went by Advance and Autozone just to see what kinds of things they had I might be able to source locally. The only things I found were vacuum lines and the fuel lines. I couldn't remember the sizes, so I passed. But other than that, they didn't have crap. The guy behind the counter had a mild SRT-4 in the parking lot and he said... online and ebay. Don't even bother with a store, unless it's a dedicated import performance parts store... and that there weren't any in Hampton Roads. I guess I'm limited to the internet after all... not so bad.
I've got the chance to source some 305 green top injectors for a decent price. We had talked back on the first page of this thread, that the 1.8's would be enough for my power needs, and that the only real problem with the 305's would be an idle issue that is easily solved by tuning the spring tension on the MAF. Can anybody say "Don't get the 305's, stick w/1.8's and heres why..." or can I get these 305's and feel confident about it.
Last edited by samnavy; 09-03-2006 at 07:23 PM. Reason: ask another dumb question
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