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DIY Turbo Discussion greddy on a 1.8? homebrew kit?

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Old 09-16-2006, 10:58 PM   #181
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used is cheap but on something as delicate as a turbo i perfer new. hope it works for ya.
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Old 09-17-2006, 12:15 AM   #182
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All right, something else I have to decide on. I've noticed that most T25compressor outlets are 2"... and I have 2" openings on my IC. I don't see a lot of 2" intercooler piping out there. I know I'll have to buy a reducer for the inlet to the throttle body (what size is that opening anyways)... but couplers are cheaper than reducers. Is there any advantage to 2.5" pipe. I'd like to just stick with 2" all around and make it easy.
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Old 09-17-2006, 12:57 AM   #183
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you could use radiator hose it should work fine until atleast 20 psi. the TB is 2 1/2 inches there should not be a whole lot of advantage to the bigger crossover.
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Old 09-17-2006, 10:45 AM   #184
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I can't use radiator hose for the whole thing can I? That stuff doesn't bend very well does it? Going into the IC, I've got to snake about 150* around the sway bar and then about 70*-80* up to the turbo, then about 45* into the turbo. Coming out of the IC, it's got to be a perfect 180* into a 90* straight up towards the TB, then 45* into the TB. Then how would I get the 2" radiator hose coupled to the 2.5" TB inlet.

It's tough to really visualize this. I can vision where I think the compressor outlet will be, but I can't be exact until I get the header and airbox out.

Also, is it better to have the IC flush up against the radiator? Should I leave a gap between the two? Right now, they're just far enough apart that I'm sure they won't be in contact. OK, off to HD.
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Old 09-17-2006, 10:00 PM   #185
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Busy today!!!
Installed the IC. It's suspened by a piece of 90* aluminum stock that flexed just a little to much for comfort, so I added the threaded rod from the top of the radiator brace to take the load off the stock.

I decided I could do better than the black plastic air funneler thing and got out a sheet of aluminum I had lying around. I attached the top and bottom trailing edge of the lower part of the bumper mouth to the aluminum. It pinched the top trailing edge down about an inch, essentially opening the mouth an extra inch. I'd say that's about 2sqft more frontal area for the mouth. I still need to finish the sides.

I'd also like to take to grind off the little black triangles that stick down into the mouth from the sides (I think they're the baby-teeth brackets).

This week one day after work I'm going to install the Walbro.
Another day I'm going to install the Bipes.
Another day I'm going to install the boost gauge.

I'm going to wait for the AFPR until the full install. It makes sense to do the fuel rail at the same time and if I screw it up I'd be out of a ride. No such luck yet on that Supercrew... still looking.
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Old 09-17-2006, 10:00 PM   #186
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i wouldnt have them touching it is bad enough they are right next to each other the haet transfer from contact to your intake charge would be horrible they make radiator hose of 2 inches for all kinds of car's trucks and it has bends gallor in it i made my initial setup with some radiator hose and exhaust sections from advanved auto it worked rather well but it had to many joints to worry about so i had my metal on made of the mock up by the local muffler shop, the mock up cost me 30-40 bucks and abit of time to figure it out and the real metal one cost me about 60 bucks totall, i painted it after i was somewhat satisfied with the fit with some high temp ceramic paint from walmart.
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Old 09-19-2006, 01:11 PM   #187
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Default Walbro/Bipes Tonight

I plan on installing both my Walbro 190hp and Bipes tonight (if it arrives in the mail, if not, then tomorrow).
I've checked the Bipes install instructions here and it's just about the easiest-to-understand wiring instructions I've ever read.
http://www.frontiernet.net/~bipesauto/BipesACU/
However, I can't seem to make sense of what I need to set things at so it doesn't do anything while I'm still NA. I don't think I can: it looks like the best I can do it just to set it to a max of 4* retard, 1* for each 65*F, and starting at 3000RPM... shouldn't hurt my low end at all and minor effect high.

Switch positions should be:
1: OPEN=1.6
2/3/4: OPEN/OPEN/OPEN= 4*max retard
5/6: OPEN/OPEN= 1* additional ret for every 50*F
7/8: CLOSE/CLOSE= 3000start retard/4000 max retard
9/10: My choice for display (advice requested)

Does that sound right, this should make it so the Bipes is doing it's minimum.

As for the Walbro, I searched and couldn't find any links to an install guide. It's already mounted on a spare assembly, so I don't have to do any real work except unscrew the assembly, remove, and install new assembly. What kind of sealant do I use after install on the new one. Any tricks, advice, secrets?
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Old 09-23-2006, 11:27 PM   #188
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It' s been a week since my last post here, just keeping the old girl alive!

Bipes is in and running strong. Fixed a small problem highlighted in another thread where I had tapped the wrong wire for the Airflow feed. It runs perfect now and for now I'm using the switch positions noted above. She pulls just 4 degrees starting above 3k but only when I'm hard on it... otherwise, it runs like nothing's changed.

Also installed my boost gauge. I love stealth. A-piller was never a consideration and I've gotta have my heat in the winter. I'm a top-down year round kinda guy and it gets cold here in VA, so taking up a vent wasn't cool w/me. I thought about steering column, but it just took up too much room and it still sticks out like crazy there for everyone to see. So, it's still within plain view... but only to the driver. It's clear to see in my peripheral vision and doesn't get in the way of my foot or leg.

My Begi DP should arrive this week and I've found a source recommended by the guys at homemadeturbo.com to source pipe and silicone stuff :http://www.homemadeturbo.com/forum/i...4634#msg424634 The website is linked at the bottom of the first post... it doesn't have many pages, but they carry just about everything turbo-related, just not on the site. When I decide what bends and couplers I need, I'm going to order from them.

Still working on a turbo. I'm trying to source a DSM T25 with the 90* bend in the compressor section and mate it to my T25 flanged turbine housing that I already have from the busted one I bought. That should lower the compressor outlet enough that I should be able to get away with a 45* coupler coming out of the compressor and run it straight to U bend where it comes around the radiator... we'll see.

Last edited by samnavy; 08-01-2007 at 10:39 PM.
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Old 09-23-2006, 11:30 PM   #189
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WOW, this thread is a monster. I think I'm just gonna use it for updates from now on. My "what do I buy" questions have all been answered, now I just need to install stuff. For questions or new topics/issues, I'll start new threads. Thanks to all who've helped here (everybody I guess)... I can see the light ahead now... keep watching this thread to see how things come over the next couple weeks, but just for updates, not new ?'s!!!
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Old 09-24-2006, 11:24 AM   #190
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I was having a little trouble understanding what a "colder plug" was. It wasn't anything near what I thought. Here's a good read for anyone: http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/techinf...000&country=US

I think I'll be getting the Autolite 3922's as they're available anywhere. I can't seem to find a local place that carries NGK's.

UPDATE: Well, nobody in town carries the NGK's in that spec, and I went to three places and the only one who carried the Autolites in that spec was Advance. So, they're going in now gapped at .033.

Last edited by samnavy; 09-24-2006 at 01:49 PM.
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Old 09-25-2006, 11:37 PM   #191
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Well, about 1/2 hour with a brush wheel and paint... and I've got a new package shelf. I'm still not sure if I'm going to reinstall it as it is. I like the fact that it's gone. It allows me to lean the seat back an extra 2 inches... and at 6'4", I need it. I'm thinking of modifying it by cutting out the area on the drivers side that the seat touches so I can have a shelf back there and the extra lean.
A new small funky triangular panel that goes over the fuel pump is on it's way along with a stock fuel rail that I'll modify for the dual-feed setup. My original triangle was rusted through in some places. It'll get a good sanding and paint as well.

Before:
https://www.miataturbo.net/forums/at...0&d=1158700256

After attached:
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Old 09-26-2006, 12:26 AM   #192
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Quote:
Originally Posted by samnavy View Post
I think I'll be getting the Autolite 3922's as they're available anywhere. I can't seem to find a local place that carries NGK's.

UPDATE: Well, nobody in town carries the NGK's in that spec, and I went to three places and the only one who carried the Autolites in that spec was Advance. So, they're going in now gapped at .033.
plus they're cheap as hell. It's what I'm using, for the exact same reason.
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Old 10-01-2006, 10:26 PM   #193
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All right, just finished off the fuel system posted in detail in other thread. I think my Begi DP should be here Monday. I bought another T25 yesterday (DSM 2G) from an Eclipse forum and it should be here later in the week. Rebuild should be quick depending on how quick the Liquid Wrench works. No word yet on the eBay company I emailed about for Intercooler piping... I'll try them again right now, maybe hear back tomorrow.

Everything I can do prior to putting it on the jacks is done. It's ready for the serious parts now. Come on Supercrew.......................
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Old 10-12-2006, 11:14 PM   #194
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Second and third turbos arrived. I've got a complete turbo now and the blades are perfect.
Pipes will be here tomorrow. I'll tape them in place and see what angles in silicone I'll need to buy.
All the gaskets and rubber replacement parts for the clutch change came yesterday. ORDER THROUGH ROSENTHAL!!! DON'T GO TO THE DEALERSHIP FOR ANYTHING YOU CAN GET FROM THEM ONLINE!!! My stuff arrived in two days and was about 60% less than at the local Mazda place.

As soon as I know exactly where the pipes are going to line up, I can work on attaching the fittings for the idle air/BOV/recirc/breather.

It's gonna be a good weekend.
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Old 10-13-2006, 09:50 AM   #195
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Quote:
Originally Posted by samnavy View Post
ORDER THROUGH ROSENTHAL!!! DON'T GO TO THE DEALERSHIP FOR ANYTHING YOU CAN GET FROM THEM ONLINE!!!
I perfer to just walk over there!
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Old 10-17-2006, 07:03 PM   #196
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OK, getting down to the wire. I just Paypal'd for all my couplers and intake piping. And guess what showed up in the mail today!!! This thing is awesome. I can't wait to see it installed.

Anyways, the one last piece to buy is the oil feed line. I'm going to post that one in a new thread and tell the results here later.

Last edited by samnavy; 08-01-2007 at 10:41 PM.
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Old 10-17-2006, 10:15 PM   #197
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No fuggin way.... that thing is done right! Divorced gate = badass. The re-introduce looks great, should be about as efficient as you can get without dumping. Daddy like.


EDIT: Looks like your bung is on the side?

Last edited by UofACATS; 10-17-2006 at 10:19 PM. Reason: EDIT
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Old 10-18-2006, 03:52 AM   #198
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Man i'm jealous of that downpipe, mine is a POS compared to that work of art. Whoever "divorced" my gate welded the plate inside the turbo itself instead of on the flange of the downpipe... Idiots
Nice setup man, looking forward to hearing how it goes for you.
Do you happen to have an extra good T25 compressor housing so I can scrap my divorced one that has cracks around the gate port?
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Old 10-18-2006, 09:52 AM   #199
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I'm sure he has 15 by now!


I wonder why BEGi put your WB bung on that side, mine is 180° from that.
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Old 10-18-2006, 12:48 PM   #200
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Quote:
Originally Posted by UofACATS View Post
No fuggin way.... that thing is done right! Divorced gate = badass. The re-introduce looks great, should be about as efficient as you can get without dumping. Daddy like.


EDIT: Looks like your bung is on the side?

Yeah, I love BEGI downpipes for sure. My DP wasnt made by Begi but was made locally and it remerges about 1' farther down than the BEGI downpipe that Sam has. Sam really did his homework I would say
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