UofACATS

iTrader: (1)

First, when did this guy become such an expert? Awesome. Also, nice job on the "what goes where diagram."

I have a "ebay" universal kit. I'd link, but there are none for sale at the moment. Black 2.5" aluminum pipes, silicone coulpers, and t-bolt clamps. Not bad really, although you must bead yourself.

May I see a pic of the cut for the CAI? I was dead set on doing it, but I'm thinking maybe not now, I don't want to hack then realize it's not what I want but now there's a hole, ya know? Thanks..

I dig the Warner gauge.

A good comprise for the breather is to leave it routed in the intake to alleviate the potential problems, but install a small filter inline. A fuel filter works well from what I remember because it's small, cheap, and clear so you can see if it's full of oil..

samnavy

iTrader: (7)

I emailed you a high res pic of my engine bay. I also downloaded the Microsoft Image resizer Philip recommends in the FRONT DESK forum. It's awesome will probably become the most used program on my computer. I've put some pics of the car now in there.

You can see it's just around hole cut in the firewall above the Brake Master Cylinder. The hose is just some flexible tube and the black part that goes through the firewall is a short section of black PVC... simple.

If you cut the hole and then decide you don't like it, I'm sure you could find a something to plug it with.

UofACATS

iTrader: (1)

Thanks, samnavy.

samnavy

iTrader: (7)

I just ordered a few more parts...

MBC from Voodoo_Boost on ebay. I bought the plain brass one. I read through all their feedbacks and everybody seemed pleased with their products. We'll see how it works. I can't imagine it won't work properly.

Also bought that sexy Stewart Warner Boost Gauge from RacerPartsWholesale.com part#: STW114536

I still need to source the following parts:
Turbo: I've got my feelers out for a SR20det T25. So far, lots of turbos out there... just waiting for the one I get a good vibe from. I'm going to run standard hose for the water lines and a couple of the turbo-supply.com braided line kits for oil.

DP: Probably going with Begi for that as well... need to talk to them about the fact that I'm currently running a RB 4to1 Header and have no midpipe... also want to go w/test pipe and eliminate the cat... and have Borla Duals. Everything needs to mate up properly.

Bipes: I just hope I'm around when a used one gets posted... it's mine!

Intake: I've found on eBay the adapter that mates to the square intake on the RX7 MAF and gives you a 3" round to mate a filter to. They're all such horrible cheap crap though. I really just want a decent adapter and a decent 3" name brand cone filter. What are the rest of you RX7 MAF guys doing? I still need the intake elbow to from the turbo to the MAF. We'll see how that goes when I start getting things installed. I also need to remember the BOV recirc port when I engineer all this.

IC Pipes: we'll see. The jury is still out here on the best way to go. I'll need to get the turbo and IC in and then mock something up and see what I really need. One of the eBay kits I'm sure would work... but I also think I can do better. I also need to get the IDLE AIR PORT and BOV flanges.

I think that's about it for now. I'm still considerably under my initial $1700 budget. I'm actually looking at around $1550 (slop included). That breathing room should get me my dyno time. I know there are always little things I'm going to need, so I'll probably in fact end up at $1700 for all parts. You guys will know the instant I do.

RicanmiataRacer

lasT time I checked there were like 5 sr20 turbos on ebay going for dirt cheap, I saw one go yesterday for 120 with both inlet and outlet adapters..check every day, THERE'S always somthing new..oh yea....What a fucked-up weekend I had...man..anyone care to hear about it

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

post it in BS

samnavy

iTrader: (7)

Yup, believe me, I am. I've got a special folder in my explorer favorites titled "T25 spots"... and there are about 15 of them I look at several times per day. I know they're out there, I just need that good feeling about one and it's mine. Some of the ones on ebay I don't trust. I saw one I did like and emailed the guy for more pictures/specs/history... he said "It's off my Sentra, I don't have time for pictures, and you can look up the specs online." Needless to say, no Sentras in the US ever came with a T25 so that doesn't help, no pics=no sale, and no specs=no sale. It's guys like that who make me nervous about buying online.

RicanmiataRacer

Yes But they do have a drop in SR20 motor for the nissan sentra A.K.A the blue-bird-special

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

I thought the blue bird motor was a ka24det in the altimas

RicanmiataRacer

yes that motor Is used as well, but they have a front-wheel drive version of the sr20 powerhouse,I've seen it In quite a few sentra's at local meets

samnavy

iTrader: (7)

OK, more pics and questions...

1st pic: I'm 6'4" and decided to take 1" of foam out of my seat. Used a sharp razor blade and didn't hold back. I sit about an inch lower and it's just as comfortable.

2nd pic: Compared my stock MAF(right) with the RX7(left). The bolt pattern (believe it or not) is exactly the same except you can see the opening is different, and the bolts go into the RX7 and studs come out of the stocker. I don't see why I can't get an el-cheapo ebay MAF adapter and filter and use it now. If there are no problems for the rest of the time I'm NA, I should feel confident when boosted.

3rd/4th pic: I'm going to remove my A/C and don't know which bolt is the one that's too long and I need the shorter replacement from Mazda. Can anybody see it in these pics?

BY THE WAY! If you don't have the microsoft picture resizer Philip links to in the "vBgarage installed" thread in the Front Desk Forum... you're missing out. This thing is the absolute bomb. I never used to upload pics because it was such a pain. It's so much easier to ask a question with a pic for reference.

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

Search my name and "image" and you'll see who should get some credit for that program....Or if you are too lazy : https://www.miataturbo.net/forums/sh...ighlight=image

RicanmiataRacer

Yea im thinking about removing my ac as well, what exactly do you need to do to remove it? ... maybe it's not a good idea in florida to take out the ic

UofACATS

iTrader: (1)

samnavy

I don't recall if this was addressed yet, but heat shield on the various lines around the turbo.

http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/store...tegoryId=10261

RicanmiataRacer

I still need some lines...Im confused as **** as to what I need

samnavy

iTrader: (7)

I'm still debating a little. It will depend on what the turbo comes with. If it comes with some sort of OEM tube for the water lines, I'll go with standard radiator hose. For the oil feed, 4an and banjo fittings seem like the deal. I'm actually working the idea of running the oil return down into the drain... but see my new thread for that... not giving up on this one, but that idea needs it's own place.

samnavy

iTrader: (7)

OK, have been at the Pipe and Rubber store again. Here's what I picked up. The guys at Hampton Rubber are awesome. They gave me that half-used tube of lube out of their shop because they were out of stock.

Now, who knows the cheapest source of quality silicone vacuum line on the internet. I just need plain black to send signal to the FPR, BOV, Boost Gauge, Idle Air port, and Valve Cover breather port. Stephanie says 5/32" for the small lines.

What about the Idle Air port, what size tube for that, it only needs to be about 6" long.

And, How do I attach the ports for the BOV, BOV recirc line on the other side, Idle Air Port, and Valve Breather line to the intercooler piping.

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

You can get vacuum line from Pep Boys. It's in the back in a self serve kiosk thing, that you cut. You can choose from all sorts of sizes. Or they should have it in the HELP section.

UofACATS

iTrader: (1)

I was thinking about this today. Unless someone has a better idea, I will use the same barbed fitting you have in the pic, sized accordingly. Screw it in enough to seal and that's it. Apply JB liberally. Spraypaint.

samnavy

iTrader: (7)

That's damn good thinking... maybe cut a few threads off so that it will seat all the way down but not protrude into the airflow. What about a flange that just sits on top of the pipe that can be JBwelded... or use very small screws that you can file down from the inside?