Too easy to pass up

 

It was installed but i ran into two issues. First off was an ongoing issue with my MS. I had fried a circuit and when I rebuilt the tach input circuit I put a 10k resistor in place of tha 1K. Suffice to say, that made my new redline 4300k. That set me back a week and a half in itself.

Second issue is some vacuum leak I'm having a hard time tracing. I went over everything over a few hours time. Exhausted an entire can of brake cleaner all over all the flanges and welds and vacuum lines, replaced the ISC valve, pulled each vacuum line and blocked each source, etc.

Got it installed and after warmup it ran at 1900RPM or so; 1300RPM when I blocked the ISC valve from bypassing air around the TB. It's more than likely a leak at the TB to IM flange, I just haven't had a good day to go back out and work on it. I was going to Sunday but it's supposed to be 32°F high, and it's parked outside this winter (with no garage space) and I'm a *****.

There's a local dyno day on the 30th that I want to make, so i didn't rush to get it dynoed after I installed it. $35 for 3 pulls with WB and Boost.

Otherwise the day I did drive it around (didn't have my laptop to tune) it felt like there was for sure an increase in spool speed as well as top end.

 

nice

 

I was just giving you a hard time. Looks like a great build.

I have had a MS in my desk drawer since mid August and haven't installed it yet, so I am no one to pick on you for scheduling delays.

 

Where did you order the FPR from? Have you been able to find the vacuum leak?

 

i got it off ebay. not too certain about it, I may swap it out for an aeroquip unit, I don;t like how it's measuring at idle with/without vacuum.

I narrowed the leak to a broken stud on the head and I need to remove it all and replace the stud.

 

just curious. how much do you think it would cost for an average person to replicate your manifold?

The Begi ones turned out to be a little more expensive then i gad thought.

 

Seeing as how you are in Arlington...and I work in DC...I think I need to come see this in person

 

The parts weren't that expensive, it's just finding someone to weld it. Like I said, if I had used straight runners there would have been less work involved.

 

We don't let you dirty marylanders into our state

 

Where did you get the parts?
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Why is there liquid in your gauge?

 

liquid filled gauges > non-liquid filled gauges is why

 

helps stabilize the needle I believe, signs of a quality gauge (well more quality)

 

Fixed:

 

yes!! onwards

 

Now you'll break the fastener before you stripP the threads.

 

I also replaced the other two studs, just in case :P

 

Any results yet?? if it turns out good Ill build one this weekend, I think I have plenty of aluminum laying around.

 

im just waiting to dyno, probably next weekend.