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Project of the day is making sure my nitrous plumbing fits.
When I first installed the Webers, I had bungs welded to the bottom of the intake. With a 95 cylinder head, and 5 speed starter, the fogger was too close to the starter. With a 99 head and 6 speed starter, I have barely enough room to connect the lines.
Probably using a nylon line instead of hard line for now. That caps me to about 175 shot of nitrous.
Please post up when and where you'll run the car. I'd like to see it go down the track in person! Do you plan to run in Bradenton? Lakeland is only 1/8th mile
Lakeland is usually where I begin testing. Once I am comfortable with the setup, I will be running in Bradenton. There is still a lot of work to do before I take it down the track.
I was at Lakeland Saturday for a cash days race. A friend of mine won the Stick Shift class. He has won 2 out of 3 stick shift titles there.
The last couple of days have been spent trying to figure out how to convert my hardline kit to a soft line without spending a ton of money, and using my existing distribution block.
I had to source from a few places, but should have everything I need to go from the solenoids to the foggers.
I decided to to try these push lock fittings to go on the foggers.
Other NOS brand parts are coming from Summit. While I was at it, I started purchasing a few parts to add a second stage of nitrous for later down the road.
WTF that hardline kit really uses compression fittings for the tube connections? Looks like the distro block is a straight thread so you could have just use AN unions and viton orings instead of paying extra for the orb to an if you really wanted to save money.
Not that easy. Hardline is 3/16, and soft line is 1/8. Soft line is limited to that size because of the pressure, which is 1000 psi. The block fitting is an oddball 1/4-28 to 3/16 AN compression. The good news is there is a cone ferrule/ nut combo that converts to 1/8" line without changing the fittings in the blocks.
1/4-28 thats a -1 AN or ORB fitting. That seems really odd. You can totally run 1k psi in 3/16 soft line, though 1/4" would probably be easier to find. I've run hose that small at 100bar. Heck I'm using -6 hydraulic like 3kpsi rated for power steering.
The biggest anyone in the nitrous industry uses is 5/32 nylon line, there must be a reason for it. You also have to contend with extremely cold temps as the nitrous depressurizes. Nitrous manufacturers obviously went through a lot of trouble to keep people from being able to install just any fitting to distribution blocks meant for hard line.
There are also sanctioning bodies that dictate what is allowed in fuel and nitrous systems for safety reasons. Nitrous line, bottle, or solenoid failures are very catastrophic and dangerous. I am only using what is certified by NHRA, and considered safe by the manufacturers.
Last edited by miata2fast; Jan 29, 2017 at 02:29 PM.
I've had some burn patients- it probably is the worst way to die. Years ago a guy was in his bathtub rinsing fire ants of himself wth gasoline (why he thought that was a good idea I don't know) when he ignited right after he remembered a candle burning in another room of his house. He was burned very badly, everywhere, and died the next day. So much unrelievable pain.
For those with a good memory (lol), I purchased a used 949 twin disc locally. It needed a rebuild, and 949's replacement discs are out of stock.
I decided to take it to to my local clutch supply we have been doing business with for years here in Tampa when my Dad was in the heavy equipment business. Looks like they can supply me with the parts I need to rebuild it with 4 puck ceramic discs. They may have to modify it a bit to make sure the thickness of the assembly is correct, but it gets me going sooner, for a very reasonable price. The owner even gave me a Cuban cigar to give to my Dad.
For you you local folks here in the Tampa area, the place is Tampa Clutch Supply. They have always been great to work with.
Once I have the nitrous and clutch sorted out, I am tackling the redesign of my reverse flow electric water pump.
Came home from work to find my nitrous parts have arrived. The red and blue nuts are going to look terrible against the purple distribution blocks. I may end up mounting them underneath the intake to hide it.
I had an extra water pump laying around, so I thought I would start from scratch with it. Moving the exit (formally entrance) from the stock location to the nose housing the impeller shaft and bearings.
To stylize things a bit and to maximize weight reduction, I removed the flange. Should look prett trick when I'm done.
Last edited by miata2fast; Jan 31, 2017 at 01:17 PM.
Cut my factory thermostat in half. Will be welding the thermostat to the water pump nose. The remainder of the neck will have an AN fitting welded so I can feed both ends of the cylinder head.
The thermostat gauge sensor will need to be relocated to the thermostat housing somehow so it reads the hottest water. Major flaw in the last system I had.
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