Great fab work on that diff!

Lofty RPM goals. It will be interesting to see how you avoid the pitfalls others have experienced when pursuing the same.

 

Thank you, yes time will show.

 

Have been busy fixing a 1.6 turbo miata, and making a exhaust for it over the weekend.
So little work have been done with my car.
But i have an update now.
The diff housing turned out great after 20 hours in the curing oven, 6 hours up to 175 degrees celsius, 8 hours at 175 c, and then 6 hours down again to room temp.

 

I also got the help of an engineer at work to cad up my new end tanks for the ic.
Water cut them out of 4mm aluminium and bended them.
Hopefully i will get the time to weld them tomorrow.
But can't weld them to the ic core before i get the 3 inch aluminium bends that goes on them.

 

That cylinder head makes me warm in places.

 

Sub'd

 

Got some new parts for the diff the other day,
Os-giken lsd with a supermiata tune, bearings and seals from Supermiata.
And 3.636 final gear and damper from Miataroadster.
As soon as i get the crush collar i can assemble the differential.
Checked out the Flyin'miata gearing calculator, and if the engine does make good power to 9000 rpm this miata will have a theoretical topp speed of 200,7 mph!!!

 

Quote of the day. Or rather, paraphrase, but who's counting.

 

Haha..
Again time will show,
but the last ten or so miles before you take the exit to the nurburgring on the A1 in Germany, would be the perfect place to find it out.
If i don't have the time to go there this summer, i can guarantee i will take the trip next year. it's starting to be a while since i have been there.
And early in the morning at a sunday, A1 northbound would be the perfect place and time to make a top speed video.

 

Got the new front swaybar mounts water cut and bended to day.
It's the ones i posted a cad picture of in post 25.
I made them wider in the bottom so the whole bushing gets better support, and they are shorter for more room for intercooler piping.
Will test fit them to night and start making end stiffening plates for them, used 3mm steel plate so they should be stiff as ****. Haha
And yes i know they need holes in each end to get the upper A-arm bolt through.

 

I can't even imagine how much aero you'd need to get anywhere near that fast without getting lift in the front.

 

Inglars 405whp NB felt very stable at 160 mph with just a front splitter.
But who knows when you push 200 mph,

 

the most i had mine up to while driving my 400-430whp miata on the autobahn was a little over 160mph.. since i was cruising down to the nurburgring i did not push it hard, never went above 60% throttle or 0.7 bar boost to reach 160mph. did not feel unstable, and had LOTS of power left. but i would be out of gearing a bit over 170 mph. If Einar reaches 500something whp (should not be very difficult) it will no doubt have the power needed, but im not joining him in the car while he is trying

Also looking forward to installing the upgraded anti roll bar mounts on my car Good thing Einar made a set for me too

 

Tested the swaybar mounts and made templates for the end plates on the mounts.
will try to get them water cut for next week.
the rear hole on one side and front hole on the other side are placed so you can bolt them in the right location before you weld them on.

 

Looks great ! do you take orders ?

 

I am making 3 sets now, for my self, hf-mx5t and inglar.
So i can make more of them, but be warned, labour cost in Norway is high, but i can talk to the water cutter guy so i can get you a price on the finished product.

 

Got my new rear fenders from Autokonexion yesterday, always wanted these, just need to modify the crap out of them.

 

Got the end plates for the Swaybar mounts water cut in 3mm steel, and Welded them to the car, these suckers will not flex!
Also got the v8 roadster subframe, i'm a little bit skeptic about the rigidity of the subframe, so i will stiffen it up in places i think it will need it.
Don't have the time to scan it and do computer stress testing, so i just have to use common sense.

 

Update,
So i decided to make some more room for the down pipe, wg pipes and fuel lines i the rear of the engine bay.
Tried to make it look like it could be this way originally, so it will pass MOT controls.
After i got started i also found out i wanted to weld up all the holes i don't need in the engine room and on the frame rails.
Made **** loads of small metal plates and welded them in, it took a bit longer than i anticipated, but now it's done.

 

Have finally got the new collector cad'ed up.
Did not like the one garret makes so made my own to fit the tube size i'm going to use, and a different port shape and angle. in to the collector.