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Old 11-07-2013, 08:52 PM   #241
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Konig' Flatout 15X8 Bronze showed up today.





And the new actuator for the 2860.

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Old 11-07-2013, 09:05 PM   #242
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In the long run, I guarantee that wrapping it will be more work than painting it now.
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Old 11-07-2013, 09:37 PM   #243
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vehicular View Post
In the long run, I guarantee that wrapping it will be more work than painting it now.
I know you are right, I just wanted the excuse to cut corners.

Anything negative about using paint stripper rather than sanding? I have a couple gallons of paint stripper and a 3.5k psi pressure washer.

Should be a bit easier that way correct?
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Old 11-08-2013, 01:09 AM   #244
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don't even think of plasti-dip or wrap or any of that other crap.

you are at the best time/opportunity to properly paint the car. don't screw it up.
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Old 11-08-2013, 02:20 AM   #245
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 18psi View Post
don't even think of plasti-dip or wrap or any of that other crap.

you are at the best time/opportunity to properly paint the car. don't screw it up.

.
.
.
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Old 11-08-2013, 10:58 AM   #246
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haha! Is the paint really that bad? I'd give it a shot wetsanding/buffing a section of it and see if it cleans up. If its single stage paint you can sand it down all day long and it will still buff right out.
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Old 11-08-2013, 11:45 AM   #247
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I''ll know for sure tonight when I powerwash it w/ purple power and use a brush on everything to get any overspray/gunk off the paint. I'll probably do a test panel but as Vlad said, might as well do it right while its broken down like this...
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Old 11-08-2013, 12:36 PM   #248
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I just wish I had the ***** like Curly to buy a paint gun/sanding blocks/paint, and spray the car myself. After doing the math though it wouldn't be much cheaper by the time I buy all the tools and paint rather than taking it to a Maaco and getting their base coat and clear coat package, which is much better than the basic $400 paint job most people complain about.
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Old 11-08-2013, 01:00 PM   #249
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I'm glad you recognize my *****, but I has no paint sprayer. Or is that just what I told you to do?

Maaco SUCKS. There has to be ZERO trim on the car. If you see anything black, it'll be sprayed, masked or not. So lights, windows, window trim, any interior, etc.

I'm flipping a car currently with a Maaco paint job, and I've used up 2 cans of Rust-oleum's flat black enamel paint. I LOVE the stuff, and I've put it on the head light bucket trims, the lower windshield trim, the hood guards, a handful of other things, and I still haven't gotten rid of a good amount of the over spray. It sucks to deal with.

You're in a good position to paint yes, but if it's not currently horrible, I'd highly, highly suggest leaving it alone. I took the time to sand, spray a primer, and spray enamel white on the hood, and it looks much better than the panels around it.



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Old 11-08-2013, 01:08 PM   #250
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Woops sorry I was thinking of Joe Perez in this thread.

https://www.miataturbo.net/general-m...int-car-68226/
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Old 11-08-2013, 02:37 PM   #251
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You don't sand teh car to strip it, just to give the paint some bite. And being a detailer, you can fix anything you might screw up spraying teh car. Take your time, buy a Kobalt spray gun from Lowes (one of the mid level gravity feed guns), and spray the thing single stage PPG white. It will look great forever, and even if you run the crap out of it you can sand the run out and buff it or respray that panel.

You'll thank us.
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Old 11-08-2013, 03:02 PM   #252
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Damn you guys for talking me into doing this! I appreciate the gentle nudges in the right direction though. My problem is information saturation. I research the **** out of anything I do and it sometimes leads to sensory overload due to the choices available.

I'm guessing this is what I'll need then
-Paint sprayer
-Mixing cups w/filters
-Lacquer Primer
-2k Epoxy Sealing Primer
-Sandpaper blocks
-PPG White Single Stage
-Reducer
-Inline filter and pressure regulator
-Those huge rolls of plastic for painting to create a sorta clean room/protect garage.
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Old 11-08-2013, 03:58 PM   #253
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Insurance finally settled the claim. $6800 payout, I received an additional $1300 from parts after I gave them the receipts that Dave had on record. $1100 buyout for the salvage. I'll Probably get a couple hundred for the shell after I take it to a salvage yard
so...
$2100 after the initial $7500
$800 replacement shell
$800 for wheels/tires
+/-$700 in parts
=$4400

Not bad, not bad at all. A huge headache but I'll take that over an additional $3100.

I'm going to try wet sanding the paint tonight and if that doesn't turn out looking good after a 3 stage buffing/polish I'll paint it.

If I di paint, I'll use TCP Global-Arctic White Acrylic Urethane Single Stage with a Urethane Primer.
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Old 11-08-2013, 06:11 PM   #254
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Nice. Why did you get a new wastegate for the 2860? Was the old one damaged?
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Old 11-08-2013, 06:20 PM   #255
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You're in the detailing biz, right? Don't you have any friends that are already equipped that can lay down an even coat for you? That's what I'd do. You've already done the grunt work.

If you want to learn, that's cool too. But it would likely be cheaper/faster the other way.

Still, your car is going to be awesome and you're going to thank us later for talking you into this.
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Old 11-08-2013, 07:52 PM   #256
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fireindc View Post
Nice. Why did you get a new wastegate for the 2860? Was the old one damaged?
Old one was leaking around the gasket after I water compression tested it. The only one was a 12 psi actuator but this new one is 11, so I'll have to set the preload a little higher.

Quote:
Originally Posted by hornetball View Post
You're in the detailing biz, right? Don't you have any friends that are already equipped that can lay down an even coat for you? That's what I'd do. You've already done the grunt work.

If you want to learn, that's cool too. But it would likely be cheaper/faster the other way.

Still, your car is going to be awesome and you're going to thank us later for talking you into this.
No I just have invested way too much money in the car detailing world, read up on it a lot, do the odd job for friends and family here and there. More of a hobby really.

I can't quite make myself hit the checkout button for the paint supplies for myself. You reach a certain point where you want to just hand the car off to someone else to do the paint and body work.

I can rip cars apart and clean it till the day is long but since I'm a detailer by hobby, I notice defects pretty bad, and I'd hate it if I was the cause. We'll see though, still nothing concrete.

I'm still waiting on TSE to ship my manifold studs so there is no hurry in assembling the car until I get all the little parts in from different vendors.
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Old 11-09-2013, 12:37 AM   #257
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225/45/15 looks absolutely perfect on 15X8. Tire shop was laughing at how light the wheels were, then they were laughing at me for buying 949 valve stems, then I was laughing at them for how hard they had to struggle to get the Rivals to mount on the wheel.







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Old 11-09-2013, 04:25 AM   #258
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Got down here too late to run the pressure washer so I had to use my steam cleaner. Turned out good but takes 5 times longer to do what the P.W. does.

Still a lot of little nooks and crannies to get to. Took me an hour just to sand the overspray off with 2k wet.

It is really tempting to do a wire tuck while the harness is out like this. It looks so much better without all the **** in there.





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Old 11-09-2013, 08:07 AM   #259
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Early start today.

Took all the nasty gunk out of the trunk. Different chisel sizes and a heat gun. Cleaned it up with a wire wheel.



Took the rear trim off(bitch and a half) and took all the sealant off the edge.

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Old 11-09-2013, 12:16 PM   #260
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Trunk looks really good, that's what mine looks like. Bitch and a half, but once you're done it's very satisfying. And very bendy. It's not very thick back there...

Careful on the wire tuck. If you're not making a show car, I consider it a better idea to have a useable and serviceable harness than hiding a few wires. You can do a lot by just grouping a few wires together and running them under the fender (but inside the engine bay). While you've got everything out, you might want to cut the braces a little bit that sit right behind the headlights, so you can pass some of the larger connectors behind them.
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