Jeffbucc

Have I mentioned I love my steam cleaner? Off it goes to the machine shop.

Figured they'd appreciate me cleaning my head before they have to mess with it.

humming

iTrader: (2)

Link to a tool similar to yours?

Jeffbucc

http://steam-cleaners-direct.com/m/scd-vx5000-steam-cleaner.html
I recommend getting a cheaper $150 one on amazon. I use mine for my business so I need a lot of boost...errr PSI and hotter steam.

Chiburbian

iTrader: (1)

How important is temperature? The one you linked says 298 degrees, the consumer one only says "over 200 degrees".

Jeffbucc

I used to have the model below that and honestly it was good for what it was, and the average light usage customer wouldn't complain, but the VX5000 is literally night and day better. Rips **** off the surface the old one would barely budge.

And the reason is the heat of the steam. It is able to get the heat in the dirt/oil/paint yadda yadda much deeper and much quicker. Add that on top of 30more psi of pressure and **** melts away. So really heat just makes it easier to loosen the surface tension of the grime more easily.

Saying that. For light cleaning and occasional use you can't go wrong with the 1375. It is one of the best before you start getting into the really expensive commercial steam cleaners. I used my old one for years before I upgraded.

Jeffbucc

Oh also forgot. They are measuring the heat at the tank, not the tip. So in the tank you are seeing 200ish but the actual steam temp at the wand is much lower. VX5k is measured at the wand tip. Bigggg difference

hornetball

iTrader: (4)

Good call on giving the machine shop a clean head. At the very beginning of my intake valve woes, the machine shop bead blasted the head and neglected to clean out the oil galleries. Ended up scrapping that head and it couldn't have done the short block much good either. Grrrrrrrrr . . . .

18psi

iTrader: (76)

he's on a role ladies and gents

concealer404

iTrader: (3)

Which role is he on?

rleete

iTrader: (21)

Forum ****, apparently.

rleete

iTrader: (21)

You sleep with it, don't you?

18psi

iTrader: (76)

he uses it to clean up after pulling his head too

Jeffbucc

I turn it up to 98.6º....you know what no...not going there.

hornetball

iTrader: (4)

I'm good at pulling heads with steamy tips.

GOING THERE!!

Monk

iTrader: (3)

You boys are turning me on.

Jeffbucc

I'm giving Rick the sassy white girl award, you get ehm gurl

hornetball

iTrader: (4)

Jeffbucc

Back on track though. I was discussing solutions with Bryan and wanted to query those who have a lot of experience as well(Hornet). How far should I take this. Just replace exhaust valves and springs and call it a day? What else *should* be done while the head is off and I have the opportunity to do it right.

The head is a 99 and the P.O. had it:
ported, polished, 3 angle valve job, backcut valves. So not much left to do besides springs and stems right? I was told the 99 had solid lifters so shim under buckets not necessary(also pricy).

So don't really wish to spend a lot but I also want to do it properly to avoid this issue again (hopeful not expected).

Part of me wants to install a water/meth kit to help eith my EGT's, a little insurance against 91 octane and the lack of access to E85

hornetball

iTrader: (4)

I think the light doubles are nice insurance if you track the car a lot. Also good for holding the intakes closed against boost. I'm back to running OEM valves. The Supertech's self-destructed just as quickly as the OEM's back when I was dealing with the other machine shop. I couldn't tell any real advantage for the Supertechs. I never had exhaust valve troubles though, only intake valves.

Shim under bucket is a variation of the solid lifters. Under sustained high-RPM (Spec Miata races), the OEM lifters with shims sandwiched between the cam lobe and lifter body have been know to fly out. It's not common and keeping an eye on lash and respecting your redline should prevent it. I'd say if you're building an 8K+ grenade, do it. Otherwise . . . .

You could do a BP5A camshaft, but with a turbo, not sure it's worthwhile.

Anyways, I'd do the light doubles and the basic rebuild. Depending upon what the machinist finds with the exhaust valve, you might want to upgrade those too. Anything else . . . meh.

Jeffbucc

Good point on all things Hornet. Plus the fact that the engine and head only have 18k at most on them makes me not too worried about the condition of it all.

Did you ever find out what your new machine at did differently when he cut your valves? Something I should pass on to mine?