Oof, that seems overboard. Naivete' caused me to spend as much as I did on the Moroso catch can, but I got mine for a good(relative I know) price. Spending 300+ on one is crazy unless, as FAB said, application needs it.

Also the tags of this thread are killing me, I never noticed them before.:rofl:

For whatever it's worth, their single can setup is pretty reasonably priced compared to the Mishi units. :bowrofl:

Jeff in true plant-the-seed fashion - Linky

That dual catch can is where it's at - although most "dual" can setups are linked to each other so that the second can catches anything that get's by your first can. Way better setup for road race cars that spend time in corners and might suffer from spillage back into the system.

You put that in there just for me didn't you!:rofl:

We luv u Jeff. :makeout:

BTW, just to be contrarian, I don't run a catch can and am glad I don't. I lost a ring on #2 last Friday. I knew something was up immediately when I popped the hood to cool off coming off track. Normally, there is just a bit of oil around the breather to wipe up after a 30 minute session. This time there was a lot more. That led to a compression check . . . 185/100/175/185.

If I were running a catch can, would I have caught it this quickly?

:D :party:

The product description is indeed tailored to twist your rubber arm. :)

This is very true my buddy has their single can model it is one of the highest quality catch cans i have ever seen. The thing that impressed me the most was the threads which often people neglect to notice.

I love you Levrimiter

They look so good, as Walter says, "It really ties the room together."

Fuckin' Aye Walter

I hate taking photos of reflective surfaces, makes me wish I had a polarized filter for my camera.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1395892628

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1395892628

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1395892628

I see a dust spec. No really, the boost gauge is pointing right at it!

Reflections and lens flare a la JJ Abrams!

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1395898443

Throttle body wire brushed and cleaned up. I took a file to the IAT ports to help take the rust/jagged edges off it after the photo.

99 1.8 next to the Old & huge 1.6 throttle body

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1395901455

Lots of wire wheeling. I really should have bought a bench wire wheel a long time a go.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1395901455

On. Need to do the wiring tonight. It dawned on me that I don't have any female connectors for the 99 so I am hoping I can find a connector on the spare CO car harness to scavenge.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1395901455

Just a little help for your wiring,
for my 1996 car wth VVT engine I made some small PNP adapter harnesses for IAT and TPS

Here is a little wiring scheme (also applies to the 99-00 TPS/IAT) with all the part numbers for the connectors (Ballenger should have them in stock)

TPS
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1377594023

my adapter:
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1377594023

For the IAC I wanted to do the same - but I realized that I just need a different connector housing as both the NA as well as the NB connetors are AMP SSC parts with just different keyways
(read here: https://www.miataturbo.net/engine-pe...3/

Below that was the original plan - but try to get the correct housing and just swap the housings...
http://www.ingenieure-reichel.de/upl...s_1,6_2001.jpg

I'm just annoyed that the connectors are just BARELY different from other 2&3 pin connectors on the NA harness. They are so close to just working perfectly. Now I get to wait another week for connectors...Not sure why I didn't consider this when I ordered it. Oh well!

Finished up some wiring last night.

New Vic's connector and proper wiring

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1395922853

Actually having the right crimp tool is holy hell amazing.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1395922853

EBC mounted. I was going to route the IWG hose closer to the turbo but decided to play it safe and route it farther away.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1395922853

Friends don't let friends use electrical tape rather than heat shrink. Took me almost 45 minutes to strip it all off. It was about 10 layers thick. This is just the injector harness tape!

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1395922853

I'm no pro but this looks a little sketchy for your injectors.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1395922853

So I'm going to try to finish up cleaning up this harness correctly today.

You've got the tools... i'd just rebuild that entire harness from scratch.

Seriously this. Ballenger has all the connectors you need on their Miata page. I'm in the process of doing something similar right now, but my harness isn't nearly as trashed as yours. For legit automotive grade GXL wire in multi color and gauge packs of sensible lengths, check out WireBarn.com. I ordered a bunch of wire from them and its worked out great for a bunch of projects.

Those are some ugly coolant tubes on that TB. What's up with that?

I noticed that too. My spare TB looks like that but the one that came with my car is perfect. :dunno:

Jeff you need to set your gauge needles ;)

That's the plan Sam! Sorry if I didn't make that clear. In no way, is any part of that harness staying in the car.

No clue, fo the price of the TB, I ignored it.

I thought AEM gauges self centered? If not, I do!

Jeff, if you can't tell -- we don't want this perfect Miata to ever be driven. So we will do whatever we can to add to your task list. LOL.

We share a common goal. It just gets very irritating being this close and finding shit like this. I feel like I've replaced almost all the wiring in the engine bay at this point.

Better to address now. Keep going! Take that hill!

If we are using the mountain biking euphemism, this has been one long ass hill for the downhill section!

Before I checkout, I'm 90% sure these are the correct connectors for the 99 TB, the only one I question is the 2 pin connector.

Home » Shop » Connectors / Harnesses » Sumitomo » 2 Way Plug Connector Kit for Japanese applications, Gray

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1395951359

Home » Shop » Connectors / Harnesses » Yazaki » Japanese 3 way TPS Connector Kit (Miata)

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1395951359

Oooooooh, forgot you have the AEM ones. Carry on.:rofl:

First one doesn't seem correct to me - the keyways are wrong - I think thats the one you already have on the IAC now, has to look like this:

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1377594820

Ask at Ballenger (he is at this board too Sign In - Miata Turbo Forum - Turbo Kitten is watching you test compression. for AMP part-nr. 184000-1

If you contact him anyway, I would ask if he has all the connectors and pins for the injector harness too - so that you might be able to build it completely new...

BTW. - I still don't feel that gauge panel 100%... I always think you should have done something like that:
http://i1322.photobucket.com/albums/...ps9d20775c.jpg
Out of this thread at *cough* CR.net:
CollinMB's Frankensmurf Build - Page 3 - ClubRoadster.net

I guess that counts for the Greets, Sven

Thanks Sven, I'll give him a call tomorrow. I was trying to figure out what the connectors were for the RC750s since I wanted to build it 100% from scratch(after doing the VIC's connector, it looks much cleaner), but since I left the harness in St. George I couldn't compare the pictures to the harness.

Maybe I'll try doing it flush like that on my old tombstone, before I wreck the brand new one.

Good point, because you need to bondo and sand it anyway...
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1395994669

I think a RoadsterTech two gauge hole, full height plate, rack system would look pretty dope as well. :naughty: Just thought I'd throw it out there, since I meant to 30 pages ago. Love the build Jeff!

With how much ABS plastic I have laying around, I think I'll save the money. Their rack system is pretty nice though.

Plus if I do waste additional time on the panel, I would go all out as Sven suggested, and bondo the edges and make a truly clean setup.

I think for now at least, I want to work on the important stuff, I.E., getting the car ready to run.

I need to do several things, 1/2 of which I am waiting on connectors from Ballenger till I can do them.

-New injector harness
-New IAT/TPS connectors/wiring
-Rewire the DB12 MS3x DIYBOB connector and its associated inputs
-connect all the vacuum lines to the TB
-Retune the MS3x for full sequential injection & Spark, VICs, EBC, and for the new 99 TB settings
-Bumper
-Hood, of which I need to drill/cut the Aerocatch pins
-Actually put gas in the car
-Hope my battery still has a charge on it after sitting in the garage for 6 months.

Pray to the Flying Spaghetti Monster/Xenu/God/Allah the car starts when I turn the key for the first time.

*edit* Also powdercoat the shock towers to finally get Curly to stop rubbing it in my face via post and thread tags!:rofl::fawk:

I'd recommend that you only change the 99TB settings on the MS until you're up and running. Then do the others one at a time. Otherwise, you'll have no idea why you're not starting.

Love the gauge pix. Thanks Jeff! I really need to get a set of my own.

That wiring harness... yuck. Just build one. :)

And my reason for posting: I identified a huge rattle source on my own car. Scrutinize the HVAC cable that runs above the passenger's knees, behind the glovebox, and to the flapper on the far right hand side. On Sharka, it rattled on both the HVAC tube and the glove box. Strategic foam tape application has helped quiet it down.

Little done this weekend, mostly been sleeping to recover from this week but oh well.

Wrapped my coolant lines. Why Mazda designed the routing to be so close to the headers is beyond me.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1396148028

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1396148028

Went several layers thick on the return heater coolant line.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1396148028

New throttle cable is like buttah

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1396148028

Which port does the turbo intercooler IAT line connect to and where does the other go to?

I think I remember reading the 99 throttle body doesn't need the IAT intercooler hose connection?

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1396148028

I think those are both for the coolant to warm the TB in the winter.

IAT=intake air temperature ;)

ISC/IAC=idle speed control valve ;)

Anyways those ports are for coolant.

I also noticed you heat wrapped also your coolant tube, should prevent the metal tube from degrading ;)

On a stock BP4W I believe the coolant path is mixing manifold -> thermo housing -> throttle body -> oil cooler/preheater -> nipple on the back of the head.

Actually I think the flow is reverse of what I just described, but that's where the hoses run at any rate.

The NB throttle body does not have an external air feed hose so that's yet another piece of plumbing you get to eliminate ;)

Personally I'd yank the fitting out of the throttle and drill/tap to 1\8npt and plug it just to clean it up a bit. 1\8npt might be big, but you get the idea. Dangling fitting are ugly. Like dicks that don't belong.

Thanks! And Vuti the wrapping of the tube was to help decrease any heat getting into the coolant. It's so close to the headers I figured it couldn't hurt.

Are they even necessary to run coolant through with the coolant reroutes that are currently on the car?

Meaning, can I just put plugs on them and call it a day since the original setup didn't have them.

If I understand correctly they aren't needed. Dunno about 1.6l coolant stuff. No need for coolant through there. Emissions blah blah no care. Don't drive it in the ice age maybe.

You are awesome. I was trying to figure out why the hell you'd run coolant there; that connected the missing dot in my head. Car won't be driven during the winter, and if it is driven it will only be in St George where it is never winter here(except for the odd 3-5 days a year it snows.)

Yes. They are to warm it up in cold weather. Not necessary where you are.

Do you have your hose clamps on top of the heat wrap? If so, you have to remove everything and cut the heat wrap a bit so that the hose clamps can touch the actual hose. You'll have leaks otherwise.

Ask me how I know. :bang:

Those coolant lines are meant to prevent the idle speed control valve from getting jammed with ice. The pressure drops dramatically (from ambient to whatever vacuum you have) across the idle speed control valve. According to the ideal gas law, so does temperature. In some environmental conditions (mostly high humidity and well above freezing), ice can literally form in that spot making idle control erratic. This is exactly the same principle as carburetor ice in piston-powered airplanes.

I'd say St. George is a dry enough climate that you shouldn't have to worry about it. I capped mine and haven't had any issues.

That is good to know, the picture is deceiving, luckily I was smart enough not to wrap that area. I think I tried to and then the clamps wouldn't fit over the lines and I stripped it off.

===

Not a ton done, just a lot of time wasted trying to get everything trying to line up right and little odd things to organize to clean up the engine bay.

I painted my center caps. They were this ugly fake chrome and it looked like shit. Lots of sanding followed by plastic adhesion promoter and some good satin black and it looks good. Not great, but good. Trying to think of a good sticker I could place in the middle since these were just blank.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1396210830

Started getting my bumper ready to put back on.

Cleaned all the dirt off the bumper support

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1396210830

Removed all the white paint overspray off these things and then put some sealant on it.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1396210830

More white paint removal

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1396210830

and boom goes the dynamite. I am going to make an undertray out of ABS plastic since the new intercooler position really makes it impossible to use the front air guide. Haven't tried to put the undertray on yet so we'll see how finicky that will be.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1396210830

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1396210830

I need to bondo the front lip and then sand out all the scratches and then spray it with "bumper spray paint". Basically highly flexible rubberish paint that is pretty dang durable.

I was going to replace it but they are so expensive(even for replicas) and this one is so scratched I don't want to put it back on the car without some work. I know it will chip but for "now" it will do. Sometime later I'll replace it.

:giggle:

Good progress doe, car is starting to look like a car again!

That would be simply magnaflorious...I think my car would get destroyed by the cowboy militia of Southern Utah with those considering I am the only one on my block without a diesel lifted truck.

Not a huge fan of the TSI's, but otherwise looking great!

EDIT- It looks like I'm a bit behind on your build thread and this was already covered. :facepalm:

Interesting bit of information - It's to avoid ice build up inside the TB. It sounds crazy but if you're familiar with the "wind chill" effect and think about the velocity of air coming through your TB it starts to make sense. Some slight humidity, a nice cold morning and you've got ice buildup. Probably not a likely scenario for Jeff or maybe even anyone who owns a Miata but that's why it's there.

I use "leading edge tape" - It's thick clear tape I believe 3M makes it. It's designed to protect the leading edge of helicopter propeller blades! It's not cheap but you can bounce your bumper off curbs and this stuff has you covered.

I'm not either the more I look at it but it's what the car came with so *shrug* oh well. Not too bothered by it.

Bryan, that leading edge tape sounds awesome!

How to put a hood on with no help:

Used my old climbing rope that I had to retire and strung it over the garage door guides. After I got it in position I slowly lowered it until I could angle the hood correctly to slip it on to the brackets.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1396250136

Then I slipped the bolts on and installed the hood props

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1396250136

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1396250136

Turned out really good. Still need to drill the holes and cut the hood for the aerocatch latches, but I need to remove the pins and make sure the alignment of the hood is perfect before I drill the initial hole. I'll be honest, a little nervous about it!

http://i26.photobucket.com/albums/c1...c/IMG_2442.jpg

Ingenious idea! Great work! I can't believe how you keep the car so tidy over the time - mine has gathered quite a bit of dust in the last couple of weeks...

Constant cleaning is how. It really does just get dusty sitting there doesn't it? I started doing all my sanding in the driveway to help cut down on it.

You were right Sven, aligning the hood is a bitch! The sides and rear are perfect but my headlight gap is terrible on the passenger side. Scratching my head on how to fix it.

Move the headlight.

Needs more:

http://www.miataforumz.com/attachmen...edef53a8_o-jpg

What hood prop kit is that? I need to switch mine up so i can put the cold air box thingymabobber on.

yes, i have euro clear turn signals. makes a huge improvement in look.

+100, i personally cannot stand the TSI look. It just screams rice to me and they really don't work all that well either.

IMHO get some clear turn signal housings like curly posted, OR these smoked ones would look nice:

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1396277679