All of the proper wiring should be there. What TPS are you using now?

I believe the current build thread title is "blonde young beefcake with skimpy shorts named rocky" :giggle:

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1395424130


https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1395424130

Jeff, I'm nervous about your use of ABS that close to the turbo. There's a radiation path past the CHRA to the inlet box. I hope the aluminum tape is enough, but keep an eye on it. OTOH, if the ABS gets soft, then you may not have to worry about intake movement so much. LOL.

The tape is just until I can get some more transmission tunnel koolmat type sheets to put on top of it. Should be fine, if not an old employee's husband is a welder and can make me one out of aluminum.

Check out my build thread when i dropped the 99 motor into my 90, i wired up the TPS/iac to my oem 90 harness and it worked like a charm with my MS.

Ooooooooh dem is fab?

I (Bryan) was working part time with Fab9 to get the company started last year. They weren't the most motivated gentlemen so I left my job and made a major investment to take it over full time at the end of last year. So yes as of about 5 months ago, Dem is officially Fab :party:

Hence the major website changes and forum sponsorship in the recent timeline ;).

In that case.. I'll buy one of your FMIC when you update your build thread with 400whp dyno results.

:party:

^ lol

props

AEM faces are in the mail today. :) I'm really looking forward to seeing them installed. I need to buy some of my own.

I don't check this thread for a few days, 3 pages go past. lol

Baahaha... Before the car was parked for the winter we hit 440 wheel on the local mustang dyno and realized VVT was not working. Since then I've resolved VVT and spent a little time re-tuning the drivability that VVT had changed.

I honestly don't even have time to think about the car :sad2: I spend 4-5 hours a day building COP wiring harnesses/welding intercoolers and the rest shipping/responding to emails. Meanwhile trying to work on what's next for us and building our website. At some point when I feel like it will not effect my ability to deliver good customer service, I'll dust off the NB and move forward.

Very wise choice. Happy to hear the business is growing and looking forward to seeing your car going again when you can.

Drama Llama detects the beginning of drama! This thread is a place of happy-happy-joy-joy and feel goods! ;)

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1395439987


---

Finished up the air box. Trimmed an extra 1/4" off the hole and then added a rubber grommet for abrasion as per y'all's suggestion.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1395439987

trimmed an 1" off the elbow and it gave me the perfect fit.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1395439987

Cut off the extra aluminum tape off the back and then used an extra firewall seal and cut it down the middle for the top. Turned out great!

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1395439987

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1395439987

Next project is to remake this bracket to pull the coolant drain/feed lines to the turbo down lower. Currently the blue silicone lines are pretty taught, so I'd like to lessen the tension up a bit.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1395439987

Hmm, I think you may have to cut a bigger hole in that air box, just to be on the safe side. The rubber rim pretty much canceled out the 1/4".

I just love everything about this build and it's trillion pages.
+ the good news about FAB
+ the fact that you're a baker and I love donuts.

Basicly +1 for everything in this thread and everyone in it.
Sick ass miata.

Seems to me that ABS plastic, etc won't be a problem for rubbing. Just my 2 cents.

Plus it has a certain degree of flexibility that metal doesn't. We'll see how it works out. You guys know me, if it doesn't work, then I have no problem doing it a different way.

The intake shield looks great.

What was the thickness of the ABS sheet and where did you get the rubber trim used on the top? I'm in the process of making one as well using ABS but I think I mine is too thick - went with .125" thick sheet and seems too bulky at first glance. Thanks.

Thank Flyin' Miata for the heat shield, my brain was to stupid to remember Yezzir could make me one. The ABS is 1/8" and the rubber trim was the top firewall seal.

Honestly, thicker would be better for this, just harder to make using the heat bending method.

----

Ok I don't know why this coolant line setup is bothering me so bad. It just seems so unnecessarily cluttered. There has GOT to be a cleaner/more refined way to do it right???

I was going to just make the bracket longer so that they sat lower, but this causes the braided lines to rub on the lower radiator hose. The only sturdy, some what logical place to put it is right in front of the air box I just made.

Directly left of the headlight motor on the little shelf.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1395457617


Or is there a better solution that I can't come up with because I've been staring at it for too long.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1395457617

OK that was a long day.

Lower coolant pipe ceramic coated. Pretty much just really high temp spray that you bake in your oven.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1395583267

Put a little vibration dampening on the glove box

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1395583267

Need to clean the inside of the box but I put down some synthetic suede down in the glove box to stop anything from rattling. Looks horrible in the picture, but it looks great in person.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1395583267

Got my seats put in. This took FOREVER. Drivers side was incredibly tight, took about 2 hours just to put it in. I had to tear the carpet padding out of the transmission tunnel and then gently persuade(read BFH) and pounded the shit out of it to give me an extra 1/2" of room.

THEN, due to how tight the brackets were to the sides of the transmission tunnel it took forever to line up all the bolts and then tighten it by little 3" turns(read 10 minutes a damn bolt). It finally went in though. Passenger side was a cinch since I didn't need the seating position as low as the drivers side.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1395583267

Viewing angle from the drivers side.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1395583267

Cleaned and polished the B.O.V and put a new filter on it. Old filter was trashed.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1395583267

Rear finish tray carpet installed correctly.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1395583267

Actually used the spacers correctly on the 949 links, after jacking up each side they are perfectly 90 to the sway bar.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1395583267

Put the fenders back on. Took a while to align it with the door properly.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1395583267

And decided to take it off the stilts and put it back on the ground, why? Why not!

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1395583267

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1395583267

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1395583267

Looks great!!! Anxiously waiting the first start!!

Me too, me too...I can feel it in my plums!

Also, looking at my brakes in that photo, if I had an ounce less of self control, I'd be ordering the TSE 11.75" brake kit.

Much stop
So big
Because sorta race car

Do you know if they fit under those Konigs? I thought I remembered the Konigs not having the clearance for them. Even if they would fit you would probably need a spacer which may result in the fenders needing to be rolled.

:eek4:

If those fit with my Konig's I am about to get a little poorer myself!!!

**Edit** Never-mind def cant afford that yet anyway... Price was a bit deceiving at first until I realized that was only for the "Upgrade" for existing BBK owners.... Damn

Double post #5,381 deleted...

I seriously don't think the 11.75" kit will fit under your wheels. I had issues with my 15" enkeis, K1s, and my current Konigs. I'm guessing our drums are the same, and they just threw in a different spoke pattern. And the drum is what was interfering with the calipers, not the spokes. So nothing a spacer would fix. If I were you, I'd just keep my wheel option open and run 11" brakes, unless you're super serious about tracking.

My wheel/tire/brake combo on Goodwin's site:

http://www.mazdatalkforum.com/download/file.php?id=343

About the coolant lines... are you talking about hard mounting them to the chassis? So like engine -> chassis bracket -> turbo? That sounds like a bad idea as engine movement is going to be pulling on them every time you throttle up/down.

Check out what BEGI does with their line kit:

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1395591706

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1395591706

Building that aluminum bracket would be easy with basic tools, and it looks like your fittings and lines are almost the right length already.

For the lines, I'd honestly ditch the bulkhead fittings. They're just another place for potential leakage. Sell the water lines to someone who actually wants to put the time into a pretty bracket, or someone who doesn't care, and just buy lines long enough to go from turbo to source/return with one line.

^ that's what I'm thinking. I see that BEGI coolant setup and it looks like they thought "hmm, how can we introduce the most possible points of leakage into this system?"

The hard line in question was the engine coolant to heater core hose that goes under the engine towards the firewall.

Good call on the 11" brakes.

Curly I think it is the site. I never have double post problems elsewhere.

Nice! Now close that wheel gap a bit!

I think it will settle once I drive it, I hope at least.

it will

Rev 2 headlight wiring box done. If I really cared more I'd putty the seam at the top, sand it, and paint it...but I just don't care at the moment enough to do it. The way I did it this time is much sturdier since it mounts on the fuse box nuts.

Also mounted the catch can in the easiest/most open spot on the passenger side. I bought a long while ago before I realized how cheaply you can make these things. Oh well, it looks good so who cares!

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1395675411

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1395675411

Also was able to hide a lot of the wiring under the headlight buckets. Zip tied it down well so it wouldn't interfere with the headlight motor rod.

Hopefully the new throttle body comes in today so I have more stuff to do.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1395675411

As usual - Beautiful. Nice choice on the Moroso separator. They do their job very well for the guys with smaller setups on pump gas that don't need the volume.

Fab9, what would be your next step upgrade on that moroso? Why wouldn't it be sufficient for other setups?

The only reason I would imagine needing to go bigger is if you had E85 or a water/methanol injection that would need to capture more water vapor and/or you don't want to think about emptying your catch can more often.

The old one in the car was this leaky huge universal plastic catch can that was about the size of a gallon milk container. I'm quite happy with the Moroso piece. Sure it is expensive but damn is it well made. The lever actuated drain pipe makes emptying it a breeze too. The old version had you unscrew the base, which would have made my mounting solution a pain in the ass to remove every time to do so.

Its not all that expensive when you compare it to this one...

Mishimoto Baffled Oil Catch Can, by Mishimoto

I agree whole heartedly but if our barrels are the same(15x8) then it really looks like there would be no space to do so. even with spacers. :cry:

and currently I'm tapped out on buying new shiny things for the car both financially and mentally.

Reason I got the Konig Flatouts was the price of them. I got a hell of a deal for them.




That is so stupid, holy hell. $325 for a catch can?? If they sell them at that price then people are paying money for it to justify the price...mind is blown.

Print out a brake template and see if brakes fit?

Right?!?! Lol I am currently in the market for a catch can which is how I stumbled upon that. At first I was like ohhh nice... Than I saw the price and yeah.... no

I'm glad you posted that moroso though cause that is more reasonable for a nice looking catch can

As per Curly in another thread:

I was hopeful but after reading many threads...no. For my needs and how often I expect to go to track days/auto-x, 11" should be more than adequate especially at 300hp, not 400+ like you are running.

Keep in mind there is a difference between an Oil separator and a catch can. That Mishimoto piece is actually a really well designed separator, as is the Moroso.

Most of us just need a good catch can that won't spill because we're likely venting the can into the atmosphere. We aren't building machines that need to meet OEM emissions standards so we don't bother recirculating the cleaned air back into the intake system.

The primary function of a catch can is to "catch" oil and vapors from your PVC system to avoid dumping these contaminates back into your intake where it it can build up or even worse, increase your chances of detonation. This is where quality separator systems are most useful.

That being said... I don't recommend using just any old can out there. Other quality catch cans are designed to keep the fluids INSIDE the can and be easily accessed for when you need to drain it.

So I'd say things to look for are the following:
1. A can that's filled with a baffling material or one that can be opened to install said material (fuel cell foam, nylon shower luffa.. whatever floats your boat.)
2. Volume and accessibility for draining.
3. A level gauge (often in the form of a clear hose on the side of the can)
4. Proper diameter fittings. The secondary function of a catch can is to alleviate crankcase pressure which could cause oil leaks or seal damage.

keep in mind that 11.75" replacement friction disks are $35 each and 11" are $80.

You know, a Moroso coolant expansion tank would go so well with that oil separator.

Sorry that trick used to work on me but I've wised up to you bastards and your "suggestions". Y'all are half the reason(OK maybe 25%) that I have taken this build past ludicrous speed straight to plaid.

Saying that. I do wants it, maybe even pine for the uniformity of it, but I've gotta be sensible at a certain point!

Perfecting the car will come over the coming months. Just not now when it is my "slow season" at the bakery.

Soviet. That does make more sense but I'd have to sell my wheels and then buy 6uls or some other compatible wheel to make it work.

I got the 99 throttle body in the mail tonight. I'll slap that bad boy on tomorrow.

Holy crap I'm glad I listened to you guys. It is so much less bulky and the IAT assembly is tiny in comparison. Should make the intercooler pipe not rub at all!

Slightly annoyed I need to wire brush the hell out of it as I did the 1.6 TB.

That's why I bought TSE's 11" kit, uses $30 VW rotors.

It's aluminum, right? Wheel cleaner should make that puppy shine up in no time.

LMK if you want those MS settings for the bp4w idle valve. They are drastically different from the 1.6 settings, mainly the frequency at which it operates.

ask soviet what he thinks about those rotors ;)

Cracked? I don't suggest them often.

I'd greatly appreciate it good sir!

Btw, that Mishimoto sells for far less at summit racing and other places.

Using the ol' James Bond technique aye Chib?:rofl:

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1395840298

Ahh wait, are you talking about the catch can and not the radiator overflow? If so, he has a point, much cheaper

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/mi...i-bk/overview/

You gays and your glorified catch cans lol

If you're going to spend a dickload of money on a catch can setup, there is no substitute:


Universal Dual Catch Can Kit


http://www.radiumauto.com/GetImage.a...0&maxWidth=600