w00t! w00t!

Grats man! Feels good, don't it? :beer: :party:

and a quick shot of tunerstudio gauges.

It is running pretty rich! Also the 511 hz change on the TPS took care of the loping idle.

Edit Also the AFR gauge and TS don't match. Gauge shows it running 14-15 AFR while TS is reading 10, odd considering I wired it how everyone suggested so that the ecu and afr share a common ground.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1398569388

Seriously, weight off my damn shoulders.

Should run pretty rich, you're still in warm up enrichments. Wait for it to warm up, then start tuning AFRs. You also have autotune warm up enrichments. Must be done daily for a few days on a stone cold engine.

I also probably need to adjust the timing by 5 (from what I have read) for 91 octane(fuck you Utah!). Currently adjusted for 93 octane in the original tune.

Throttle input is pretty shaky still, but I'm putting that down to the 450 idle I have in the calibration menu.

Still slightly worried about oil pressure since my gauge still won't respond very accurately. Forgot to move the needle to 90 PSI once the engine was running.

I'm glad my air temp is responding correctly, just need to find a better way to start the fuel pump rather than jumping F/P to ground on the diagnostic box. And yes the ST-SIG fuse is removed from the engine fuse box so I'm not hurting the MS3x.

Congrats on the running car!!!!!!

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1398570822

How far off are the afr readings?

AFR read 14-15 but it has to be off since warm-up enrichment was active. TS output was 10.

I meant how far off is the gauge to the ts readings but I'm sure you will sort it.

So upon watching the engine idle I'm seeing white smoke coming from the headers area. I'm hoping it is just some oil I may of spilled that got onto them, but I'm worried that it may also be turbo related as well.

Kinda nervous to let it idle for a while to see if it burns off or not. Idle is currently holding steady at 1800 so I need to make some adjustments to that. Is that due to Warm-up Enrichment though?

Also timing seems to be around 20-22 degrees...is that high? Man I have a lot of reading to do on tunerstudio.

The WUE indicator that is green in your above image is indicating that WUE is, in fact, active. Once that shuts off, WUE is off.

There are a bunch of settings that will jack with your idle: WarmUp Enrichment (WUE,) AfterStart Enrichment (ASE) both Percentage & Taper, PWM Idle Crank Duty (sets IAC valve to fixed position based on coolant temp) etc,etc. I have no idea if your MS or TS is set to ignore or compensate for some of these things when autotuning, so be careful and make sure you understand what all these things are doing and when they are off/on. Its a fine balance of settings and it'll take a while to dial in.

You got this man :bigtu:

Related: I'm slightly disturbed that you haven't found a "reliable" oil pressure gauge yet :noes:

After reading your build thread, it's easy to forget that you are inexperienced in this kind of thing (i mean this in a good way ;) ) Pretty much anytime you pull a motor and re-install it there will be burnoff on the initial start. There are oils on your skin, cleaning solutions you used around that area, other buildups as well. Just make sure the turbo oil feed line isnt leaking. To do this, i usually start the car and let it build oil pressure and run for 15-20 seconds, and then watch the oil feed area to make sure there is no leaking/seeping.

As for the idle settings, everything eo2k said.. but don't forget the mechanical adjustment too on the throttle body!

It is sad that I can build a car like this but on the tuning aspect I basically am starting from scratch. I feel like I just learned algebra and all of a sudden calculus is being thrown at me!

Annoyed that the shitty napa gauge was showing pressure but I still can't get the OEM gauge to respond.

Probably going to bite the bullet and buy an AEM oil pressure gauge and just get it over with instead of slamming my head against a brick wall anymore.

OK, AEM oil pressure analog gauge ordered, and just for peace of mind a -10an braided stainless turbo return line was ordered too. My oil return is pinched in a spot and for peace of mind I bought an 18" line from ATPturbo for a good price.

Should have ordered an AEM gauge in the first place...

Got the hard top back on. I've got it fairly close to perfect but I think it is either sitting forward to far or I need to stuff a foam rod into the rubber to prop it up some more.

I used several ratcheting straps to pull it down and forward before I tightened the bolts. Also, hard tops are really really awkward to put on by yourself.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1398652862

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1398652862

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1398652862

Looks like there is a gap but it is in full contact with the rubber

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1398652862

Need to fix this.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1398652862

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1398652862

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1398652862

Your car is so perfect it almost bums me out.

Edit, also in my car I'm running oem front latches and hard mount brackets for the sides. I really only went with the side brackets due to rollbar interference with the stock latches. Also, i made my own brackets out of aluminum stock. It was super easy and worked awesome.

I think everyone's is like this

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1398652862

Damn, soo clean, that is a prop collector for sure again...

What controller are you using again? Aem? Innovate?

Nice build dude.

Extend those exhaust tips a tad or your going to be cleaning your bumper after every drive. even with a good tune and a high flow cat, you will be spewing a lot of soot with a "race" turbo tune.

Ride height looks about perfect to me, too. Just measure it and make sure there is about a 1/8" forward rake and enjoy your optimal street suspension geometry. I just raised mine to about that height and the way it handles bumps mid corner now is almost mind blowing :giggle:.

Thanks guys. I literally could not have done this without all of your input and objective criticism. Although I'd probably have a few more dollars in my bank account without y'all provoking my OCD!:rofl: Seriously though, thanks for the continuous support and probably being more patient than you usually are with others who don't know anything like me. If anyone finds themselves in Southern Utah, and I can figure out the tuning portion of the car, send me a PM and we'll take it for a spin up the canyon...you know...as long as you have a 32" waist to fit in the seats!

It is so surreal to be done with all the mechanical/body portions of the build. I was looking at the car last night trying to think of what I can do while I wait on the oil pressure gauge, and only came up with this list:

Wet sand/polish the paint
fix a couple dings in the paint from stupidity(read dropping tools)
tint windows(NM/AZ/NV owners know all to well the hell of untinted windows in the desert)
Alignment
paint pinch welds black and if time experiment with plastidipping the rockers
3M protection wrap the front bumper/front 18" of hood/top 4" of hard top/Mirrors/rear bumper/Headlights. I always regretted not doing this on my VW

All but the alignment aren't needed but will be done eventually

AEM wideband Analog gauge. Analog + wired to Lambda(4N), analog- to ground(2G) on DB12 connector.

Yup, I agree on adjusting the rake a bit. Definitely need to ensure all 4 corners are correct before the alignment is done. I can't wait to drive this thing again. The "mythical" SD Bilsteins are seriously some of the best matched dampers I've even driven in a car other than my dads 97 993. I couldn't believe how well the Miata handled on roads without destroying your will to live.

:party:

This. The sun will destroy all. There are cars from 06/07 with peeling clear already driving around here, the sun damage is obscene. Also, make sure you get a shade blocker and put it up everytime you park the car outside, if you don't want a cracked/faded dash :). >300 days of sunshine per year here!

I'm 1/2 tempted to make a trip there just to see your car. LOL, seriously.

Jeff you have the wideband sensor power and ground pulling from the same place as MS, right?

And did you manually enter the voltage = AFR min and max numbers into Tunerstudio?

This^

You need to find the calibration curve of the wideband and apply it to the WB calibration in MS. Yours and Concealer's should be the same IIRC.

Yes sensor power and ground are on ms3x. The manual voltage input...I knew that...
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/B6...hHHWo4zY63r0zw


Oil gauge gets here tomorrow, -10an line Wednesday. Seeing as it is finals week though, pray I get a chance to touch the car...damn college student employees. I need to dose all their drinks with Prozac.

Sorry meant to respond to this. Not sure how I can pull it out more, they are at their limit of adjustment.

I'd have to weld/slip on some tips to get it out of the cutout more.

Saying that. I have a TDI with a 3" turbo-back exhaust and no DPF, pretty used to the sooty rear bumper!


*edit* Would the car make a 2 hour drive to Vegas to get the fenders rolled without damage? A guy most the VW kids recommend does it for a good price there. Cheaper(when you factor in shipping) then renting one.

If you do soot the bumper, I found that a clay bar takes that stuff off quick. Then keep it waxed . . . rinse, wash, repeat. Not a big deal.

depends if it rubs or not.

just a few seconds of rubbing will mess it up.

leave it jacked up until you get there and then lower it enough that he can make it fit nicely.

or trailer it at your proposed ride height.

I used this guy.

RollYourFender.Com - Rental Info - Fast, Easy, & Affordable Professional Fender Roller Rental

Your trip is cheaper when you factor in gas for a 2 hour drive (one way? or 2 hours there and back?)?

Thanks, that is actually a pretty good deal. Must have overlooked the website when I searched. Ordered and it is on its way.

Also registered and insured the car tonight. I love registering cheap cars! It was only about $90.

My gauge showed up as well; which will be tonight's activity.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1398816559

OK, got it all hooked up, and cranking pressure is around 40 psi almost instantly. Worries about no oil pressure alleviated, thank god.

The sender it about the size of a AA battery with a 3 pin connector on it. Very slick and very easy to hook up.

The question now is how I mount the gauge. Do I do 3 in a row or do a triangle and put the oil pressure or boost(figure it is less important than AFR/oil) down below the other 2.

Only reason I lean towards the latter mostly is because of laziness. I wouldn't have to make a new panel that way...

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1398836442

I'm with you on below the other two. Sure beats the hell out of making an entire new panel. I think 3 in a row would look a little too busy anyways.

3 in a row will fit and is a pretty standard config.

Going below that top row puts the gauge right behind the shifter. On the street, you can deal with it. I wouldn't recommend it for tracking (if it's a parameter you care about).

3 in a row with the enormous AEM "beauty rings" is going to require some grinding of your tombstone to clear.

Go triangle.


Apparently i don't have any daylight pictures, but you can see the small gap between each gauge here. This required about 1/4" ground out of the tombstone on either side. It's still pretty tight. You MIGHT, MIGHT be able to get them all close enough without grinding, but i don't feel great about those chances.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1398867369

3 AEM gauges are a tight fit. Mine are just about touching but it can be done. A third lower gauge might not look bad either.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1398867686

Man the NB tombstone AC panel being on the bottom really gives you the 3" you need for a more ideal gauge placement.

Going to try triangle for now and probably make a 3 across arrangement later. I'm mentally done/sick of fabricating things at the moment.

Although, the easy thing to do would be to cut out a rectangle for the gauges, instead of individual holes and then cut the circles in the suede. It would look the same and I wouldn't have to make a new panel. Hmm yeah that will actually be easy! Just need to pull the fabric taught enough to hold its form with the void space behind it.

Since people are giving ideas



https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...1&d=1398869037

Not bad but I'd like to keep the vents. 7% body fat means I get cold/hot easily. Or I'm just a pussy...:facepalm:

I use to feel that way too but then I got rid of the AC and I dont like heat blowing at my face so I put it on defrost/floor mix. To be honest I wouldnt even have any Heater core or blower if it wasnt for the ability to use it as an emergency radiator on the track.

Or you can actually make an effort on this project and replace the OEM OPG with the AEM one.

I. Will. Not. Be. Provoked! Honestly though it seems to big to fit in that spot.

If you can remove the bezel and glass like the VDO gauges, then it should work fine.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1398872437

https://plus.google.com/photos/10160...369?banner=pwa

C

I went with the NJOY Carlife three gauge single din panel and it works fine with 3 AEM across. Wither or not you want to deal with possible shipping issues or other headaches is up to you. My transasction went well and I am very happy with how it turned out.
!NJOY CARLIFE - Radio Gauge Plates

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...1&d=1398887140
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ledinthree-jpg

Did you order more than a year ago? I tried to order in February 2013, and to the best of my knowledge, not one person has gotten their order since then. Including myself.

Retromodern would probably be a better idea for that sort of thing, but i think Jeff is pretty capable of making his own. :)

My thread shows it arriving June of 2013. I am sure Jeff could do something as nice but it would take a bit of work. I am glad I got my parts, I haven't found anything else that I was as happy with build quality wise.

What about the DDMWORKS radio / gauge cage?

DDMWorks Miata Radio Surrounds

C

This guy specializes in gauge plates and plastic products. Might check it out.

NA Miata Gauge Plates

http://roadstertech.net/.cm4all/ipro...Bdonotenlarge/

Also, if there's enough room in the cluster to actually fit the AEM gauge (I'm talking the guts and needle), I could very likely make a face for it with the artwork and scale shrunk down to fit the smaller opening.

I wonder how much there actually IS to the gauge once you remove it from the housing...

While I would love to try to make it fit. I'm not sure I want to mess with pulling the innards out of such an expensive gauge. I'm all for OCD and clean and yadda yadda, but I'm not sure I want to risk the damage

I'll just do a 3 across arrangement. The problem with fitting the AEM gauge in the tach is the almost 360 degree sweep pattern of the gauge. The VDO one linked earlier has roughly the same sweep as the stock OPS gauge.

I've already fought the issue of having a reliable source of oil pressure indication twice, and I don't intend provoke my shitty luck in wasting additional money on the issue.

Anyways, thanks for the ideas and thoughts on solving the problem, I always appreciate it....but I'm honestly ok leaving the stock OPS in the tach and having all the gauges in the tombstone

I made my own replica DDM works radio surround for my gauges. It's great because the radio mounts to it as well. I laser cut it out of 18 gauge stainless steel and bent it up. PITA to get the bends lined up though.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1398927115 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1398927115 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1398927115

That's really nice Jeremy. Does Utah have a laser-cutter? LOL.

Definitely not in Southern Utah!

Laser Cutting in St. George, Utah 84770 | Utah Laser Cutting :fawk:

After you get it laser cut, you can send it out to be zinc plated.

+1

Extremely well made radio surrounds and docking systems.

I have one in my car, and I love it.

They also make switch plates?

http://rabrillhart.smugmug.com/Other...switches-L.jpg


http://rabrillhart.smugmug.com/Other...16524815-L.jpg

Well rather than spend more money I just decided to make an entirely new one. There isn't even a 1/4 mm between then gauges. Really tight fit, which is good I guess, because that means I did it right!

Now I just need to get another guage face from Mr Revlimiter...

I put some spacers between the front plate and the rear mounting plate and then used plastic epoxy to attach both of them. Holes really don't need to be perfect I've learned.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1398989334

And some fresh suede

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1398989334

and with the gauges back in. I'll be honest, the 3rd gauge actually made it look better by filling up some of the empty space in the plate.

Didn't actually take me very long this time. After you make 4 different revisions you get pretty good at it.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1398989334

Started it up after putting all the gauges back together and seeing about 60-70 psi on cold idle.

Now I just need to get my AFR voltage calibration right in TS and also mess with switching my VREF & TPS signal wires to see if I can pull closed idle off the insanely high 450+ reading (45% throttle).

Baby steps

Great job, Jeff. Those gauges look perfectly aligned and evenly spaced out!

OK so I have been toying with my tps wiring for a while this morning to try to get the closed idle frequency down to 0%(instead of 45%) and I'm getting pretty perturbed.

I've looked at others and what they have done with the vtps wiring and mine mirrors them but the sensor wire is not being grounded when installed on the connector.

Testing the tps/ground wires by touching the 2 pins together causes the tps calibration to be perfect(reads 0%) but no combination I have tried can get the same result when actually plugged into the connector.

Is there a wiring issue on the ms3x I overlooked when switching to vtps? By that I mean did I neglect to rewire the 5v to 1N?

Basically this is all that is holding me back from allowing the engine to idle...that and wildly oscillating AFR gauges in TS and the AEM gauge.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1395149181