Does AEM have a WB software that comes with it to program the controller like the LC-1 Does? I know with my LC1 I went into the LM programmer software that comes with it and adjusted the settings to get TS and the gauge to read properly. Also Im sure its been mentioned but in TS go to Tools> Calibrate AFR> choose Custom> and manually input your settings instead of trying to use a predefined calibration.

Also how are you running the vtps aside from running a wire to 1L?

Edit Should be something like

5vref to 1N
TPS signal wire on 2L
the B ground from the main sensor ground point.

AEM comes with voltage values that you can plug into the AFR table calibration but that hasn't helped much. The ground on the gauge is run to 2A(MS3X ground). There is a lot of noise in the gauge, or that may be from the gauge & MS not matching.

Wired the connector to the stock 3 wires on the harness. I think it may be a faulty wire and I'm considering running new wires all the way back to the ECU rather than then tying them into the old wires.

Are you running the wideband through the DB15 connector?

DB12 for my MS3x

My reaction after rewiring the TPS

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1399182692

After calibrating it stayed at a constant 0% with no oscillation at all. Also after cycling the key off and on it stayed constant without further calibration.

So for those that have a 3 wire vtps the correct wiring is
5V to 1N
TPS to 4L
Ground to 4C or 4D

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1399182692

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1399182692

Perrrrrrfect!

Oh also! Think I found the source of my AEM AFR gauge and TS gauge being different.

Accidently wired the analog+ wire to 4L instead of 4N...not sure how I did that! Hopefully this was the issue at hand. Wiring going to my TPS instead of Lambda, you may now commence your /facepalm!

very nice. we need 25+psi videos like....yesterday :party:

as long as my afr problems are gone I hope to.

I havent messed with the original tuning the P.O had on the car, so I'm hoping it will run ok.

*edit* Also getting my fender roller on Monday so it will be ready to drive, just need to get a safety inspection and an alignment.

Post a screenshot of the spark and fuel maps.

Here you are, let me know what you think.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1399237078

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1399237078

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1399237078

Can you post the ignition timing table as well?

I don't like your VE table, otherwise everything else looks pretty decent to my eye.

here is a link to the tune if anyone wants to look at it. Considering I'm still trying to figure out what everything means I'm more than happy to have criticism applied

https://www.dropbox.com/s/32fhta65jhfhklb/Jeffbucc.msq

Also thanks for taking a look at the tables Vtec, much appreciated!

Uploading a video soonish(50 more minutes for a 1 minutes video...) to get what I'm talking about here but as soon as I blip the throttle it'll rev and hang, then suddenly it'll ramp up all the way to 3700 rpms. I'm guessing this is throttle tip in settings?

This is after WUE is over and it has entered closed loop idle. After adjusting the TB screw I have a consistent 1k idle

Here is what the gauges look like after WUE. Still some slight variation in the AEM/TS AFR gauges.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1399250119

Video. Sorry its crappy. Last 20 seconds are the idle ramp up after about 5% throttle input. Light smoke coming out of exhaust and slight backfire when it ramps up the rpms

Pulled my plugs to see how they were doing and found some fouling on 2 and grey/whitish burn on the other 2.

Reason I pulled them was that I never adjusted the gap on them after the car was wrecked. They are all around .20 gap. I have 4 new plugs I have gapped to .40 ready to put in. After reading a fair amount it seems a good gap to start(correct me if I am wrong).

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1399261113

You just reminded me I should probably do my plugs. Have some new ones sitting around.

has an aftermarket ECU that controls the idle speed...




...manually fucks with the throttle bleed screw to set idle speed and throws all the CL/PID tuning and rpm targets to the wind.

+1 :facepalm:

Hey I at least was smart enough to write down the original position!

It's almost like you're on 3 cylinders. That would explain the wet #4 and smoke.

+1 please verify that youget spark on all 4 cylinders...!

Sounds like 3 cylinders fo sho

Did you already verify base timing is synced with MS?

I would unplug the FP relay, go into test mode, and test Spark A-D and Fuel A-D and see what's not firing.

Or use some archaic method like pulling and smelling spark plugs, and the use of voodoo dolls and tarot cards.

Just go through and unplug each coil and see which one doesnt get spark. May be your harness, maybe a jumper(s) on your squirt. Also set your idle speed in open loop at the throttle body at your desired idle then go to CL and never touch the screw again and go into test mode to see your high/low idle steps etc etc theres several how to's around here and tune cl and never touch the screw again youll just "screw it up".(see what I did there)

Ninja Edit: Also make sure your idle VE cells are the same this helps keep idle stable and from wandering around

Haven't had a chance to check the COP harness to see if it is faulty. I'm hoping that is the issue, since it will be an easy fix if so.

I never have checked the timing. Mostly due to probably foolish hopes that I didn't need to as I never messed with it in the first place...I know, stupid. Need to read up on matching the base timing.

Training all my new employees and covering shifts and working about 12+ a day leaves me with not much energy to want to work on the car.

Saying that I did get one fender done. What a nightmare. It starts out easy and gets much harder to finesse' the curve perfectly. I have the first one roughly done but I still need to do small adjustments so the curve looks right

I'll admit to cracking the paint in a couple spots. Even with a heat gun if you get the curve a little too steep, it doesn't matter how hot the paint is, it'll crack.

If I'm not happy with it, it will at least be good enough to drive long enough to have a pro do it at a later point.

normal lip

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1399452578

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1399452578


How much I pulled it in

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1399452578

Still looks like I may need to pull the fenders. It looks worse in the pictures than it is IRL, but oh well, it is my first time doing this. Took me about an hour and a half to do one fender, mostly due to learning how the damn tool works properly and the best angle to bend it.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1399452578

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1399452578

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1399452578

That looks pretty darn perfect in my eyes...

You just need some camber. It will help pull the tire in more than you think.

Less talk about stance more about getting the car running correctly.

couple the track change (gets skinnier with bump) and camber curve you will likely clear when driving straight.

might have issues with it once you lower and turn hard.

Yeah, I cant wait to see you out driving it at some point, I need to toss the laptop back in mine and tune for the temp changes we are getting here in Cedar City now though

You can run 9s with 225s with the fender rolling and camber, no problem.

Agreed, I also need to redo my tie-rod ball joints. With the wheels straight the passenger side wheel is not pointing straight! I thought I matched the length on both sides but apparently not well enough.

I completely agree Scotty, but I only have 2 more days to use this fender roller otherwise I don't get my deposit back! It worked out to be cheaper than going to Vegas to do it.

Get a complete alignment, especially from a company that does Miatae often, because others mostly tend to be confused by the number of alignment variables on this car (ask me how I know...)

This ^^^^

Seriously, what the hell is up with this? I've never seen so many alignment techs so consistently confused as I do with the Miata. Is it really that different or that much more complex?

It's because most cars have mushy bushings, tame book settings and numb steering. The Miata takes a bit of finesse to make it drive well due to these and many factors.

I find it easiest to bring the tech a hard number I want as opposed to a range.

I think I should be ok on getting a good alignment. The guy I used in Cedar City has been doing them for 30 years. Old man river type fellow who does everything old school. He only uses the shops machines to verify his alignment and print out the specs for the customers.


What I AM considering, or I should say my father is offering to help me with, is putting the miata on a flatbed and taking it to a dyno and get a full tune done by a guy who has a shop near Vegas speedway.

Guys name is Dynodan(Home Page) and has been tuning for 20 years. Most people in the area recommend him. I'm assuming he has experience with MS ECUs, and using TS, but I need to give him a call first.

While I do want to learn how to do the tuning myself in TS. I think it would be nice to have it done correctly once, and learn as I go afterwards. Plus I'd rather not get a ticket doing pulls on public roads. I haven't gotten a ticket since I was 17, and I'd rather keep that clean record going.

Man I hope I never have to do the rears again. The pinch welds on the lip makes it a bitch to get it smooth.

Lesson learned when rolling fenders. Never forget to apply your heat. Roll a 3" section, heat it back up, roll it again, heat it back up....for every part of the lip. Every time I decided I was better than that logic I got a tiny crack in the paint.

Saying that, I only cracked the paint about 4-5 times all together. Luckily it is on the inside of the lip, so you don't really notice. I put a little touch up paint in the cracks to help stop it from possibly growing as well.

Before, there is so much damn material on the rears!

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1399537481

All bent up after about 10 passes

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1399537481

Picture makes it look worse than it is. The pinch welds make it look really uneven but you can only see it when you are looking up at them.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1399537481

Should have no issues with clearance

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1399537481

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1399537481

Glad that is over with!

DRIVE YOUR CAR!

Those fat meats look so sexy on there.

My tune is shite! I want to, trust me.

Looks like a job well done. Now, DRIVE YOUR CAR!

The more you drive, the better the tune will get. :)

For fuel tuning, I'll take TS VEA or VEAL any day over a dyno tune. The only reason to go to the dyno is to finalize a spark map in my opinion.

Let me amplify. DRIVE YOUR CAR TO MY HOUSE AND ROLL THE FENDERS ON MY RED CAR!

autotune, then hand smooth it out, then repeat those two over and over and over like eleventy billion times, and you have yourself a flawless ve table.

Isn't that your track car? Rubber mallet the hell out of it. Or just cut the excess off.

PO already hammered the rears so he could fit 205's on 15x6.5. (Seriously, WTF?!?).

It's getting 225s on 15x9s now. It needs your touch, baby!

Ugh I bet that looks like hell. I respect the people who do fender rolling and make it look easy. It is a pain in the ass to do.

I wish I would have held out for some 6ul 25x9s to come back in stock but I got a really good deal on my wheels.

Going to check why spark #4 isn't firing tonight and hopefully get it sorted out. I hope it is just the spark plug and not the harness.

Tested the COP harness and had continuity through all 4 connectors and the Power Unit. So that isn't the issue.

Time to put the harness back in and the new spark plugs and turn it over.

Please do still verify that the MS is firing all 4 cylinders...

Easiest way to check this? Or shall I say would I check wiring or software side of things.

Hmm I just saw the test modes section of Tunerstudio. Would running the injector and spark give me a clue without running the engine?

Yes.

Run the test mode with the ignition on. It'll confirm if the outputs are working.

Tested spark and injectors and all 4 are firing just fine.

So I started the motor and still no luck on cyl #4. I pulled the plug and looked in the hole after I started it up and it was pretty wet with fuel in there still.

Timing is showing around 2-4 degrees at idle. Could MS still be the issue or do I need to do a compression check now.

Timing should be 12-14 at idle - but that isn't you problem looks like there is an other problem that keeps you from firing nr. 4...