There is a little shop in front of Costco that does it for cheap, I'll have to take it by tomorrow.

Just drove through my first rain storm. That was a little dangerous. Traction was pretty good and it didn't hydroplane unless it was standing water but you needed to to drive as if there was an egg under your pedal. So wish I would have had my gopro in the car when it started, hooligan drifts without the rubber loss.

*Edit* Thanks for the exceptions to add to autotune. Works perfect now.

but but but but... stay away from trees in the rain. :D

Trees?;)

http://lakepowellrealty.net/wp-conte...erty/front.jpg

At this point we don't even believe you own a gopro.

It's only a GP3! Not the really nice new one that came out. :vash:

Besides I gave you your proof one page back!

Swampgas, light reflecting off the ionosphere, bigfoot, weather balloon... there is only the one, that could be anything!

Cleaned up my engine bay again...after a lot of tinkering and adjusting shit was getting out of hand.

Also, I had an old heatshield laying in the corner and after playing around with it and bending the bracket a little I fit it over the cold side of the turbo. Not sure if it will help anything or not but I figured why not? Maybe another time I'll have someone weld some vertical portions to the front of it and then wrap it under to help block the coolant lines.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1407068063

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1407068063

That heatshield looks like shit, take it off...

I never said it looked good, and I agree, but for now...meh.

Also here is what my VE map is looking like after autotuning for a while, what do you guys think? I've been logging as I do it to make sure it isn't leaning it out too much.

Need to make myself take the car to redline more often to work on the upper cells, but too many years of driving a diesel has made me unconsciously avoid redlining.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1407084500

Looks like it's getting there. It looks like the high rpm / low kpa areas need some work still as well. After you get most of the table sorted, try this:

https://www.miataturbo.net/megasquir...adsheet-66696/

I've found it helps smooth out any irregularity in the table. Plus it makes it look pretty.

Props! Wow that smooths out the map well.

Lots of rain and 75° weather, perfect day for a drive up the canyon. Windows down, some good tunes on the headphones, and the car driving well makes for a a good Sunday.

(only had my phone on me)
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1407120105

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1407120105

Damn. I'm subbed to that thread and I forgot it even existed. Thanks for the reminder :bigtu:

Car and scenery is "MAD"

I'm in love

Car looks amazing.

Tuner Studio has a smoothing function too... Just my 2ct

/\ Yeah, that.

And its awesome. And I use the heck out of it.

My wife even glanced over and said "nice".

That's mad props Jeff, mad props.

Oh nice, new wallpaper to cycle through at work. Love the dark clouds.

Smoothing, not interpolation in the true sense.

the spreadsheet is better IMO.

As far as getting the car dyno tuned(which I believe I finally have the car to the point that I CAN) is it up to the discretion of the tuner whether or not they will use Tunerstudio/Megasquirt if not directly listed as supported software? I've been reading conflicting posts that a lot of dyno shops won't touch it. Going to give a couple shops in Salt Lake City a call. I was going to go to Vegas but it looks like it only has dyno shops for Fords(merica') or euro vehicles.

Dialed in my closed loop idle settings after extensive reading, I finally have wrapped my head around how everything directly affects each setting.

-No more crack, snapple, pop on decel
-fast idle recovery with highbeams/fans on and only a 20rpmdot oscillation
-smooth shifts with no more rpm hang/judder
-boost is much smoother with less hesitation. Will be even better once I get my new wastegate bracket.
-coolant temps holding steady between 187-200

I am not liking my ACT clutch very much. Either my flywheel has some imperfections in it or what but 1st gear is publicly embarrassing to use in town. I can get a smooth engagement about 60% of the time, other times it is bucking bronco, 'oh god how do I drive a manual', engagement.

Looking at a Speedsport clutch solution from Goodwin. Supposedly amazing engagement and pedal feel. I was looking at the 949racing twin clutch but I think it might be a little serious/rough for my needs.

I have some new stub axle seals on the way for the diff to hopefully quell the tiny drip I have on it.

act 6 puck? xt pressure plate? yep, those blow chunks.
get an FM2

and I doubt there is any other way besides TS to tune MS.

Yup....and yup. How well does the FM2 hold up to 300 +/- HP?

Well I'd have them use my laptop obviously, would they is what I plan on finding out tomorrow.

Boost comes on so hard in 2nd now that I basically just evaporate rubber and bounce off the rev limiter till I shift. It's some good clean expensive fun.:rofl:

Its rated for 353 ft/lbs. I daily mine with ease.

At $369 it is pretty damn cheap too. Probably go this route since it has such a good track record. Not psyched about dropping my transmission, but it can't be much worse than what I've gone through building the car.

Also, major thanks to Onyxyth for bringing the spreadsheet to my attention. After using that to smooth the map and TS to interpolate the car accelerates much more smoothly. It will take a little more autotuning to get it better but it is headed in the right direction now.


Not sure why I have such a deep valley in the 2-3k rpm range but my logs looks good so *shrug*.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1407299322

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1407299322

+1 running the FM Happy Meal stage 1 now and loving it (though I should have got the stage 2 in the first place)

Seriously, the only thing I would ever tune on a dyno is the spark map. Street tune everything else.

Find a tuner that is familiar with your ECU. Otherwise, you'll be paying for their learning curve and probably not getting a good end result.

Yeah I've got 6 shops I plan on calling today to narrow down my options. Don't plan on jumping the gun on this.

Nice thing about driving 3+ hours is I've got a cruise control unit on the way. No more cramping in the right foot!

If you drive on the right roads, your foot won't cramp. You'll just have to stop often for fuel. ;)

Right? I can't wait to get a track day in.

Emulating Soviet somewhere in Mexico...sorry for the shaky cell phone recording and audio. 60ish-120 in 5th gear.

Looks strong. That dead op gauge freaks me out.

omg, yeah.

+1 - change that sooon. It's certainly a dead sensor or such...

Or unplugged. I forgot to plug mine in a couple times I put the motor back in.

You guys forget there is an AEM oil pressure gauge in the dash ;)

Hell no I wouldn't do that without some idea of pressure!

I didn't forget. I just said it freaks me out.

Ah yes, I too at times get momentarily panicked by it. Been thinking about replacing it with an oil temp gauge, or something else that would fit in that location.

My brothers roommate dropped by to pick up my brothers record player. Never had been in a Miata before, had a pretty poor opinion of one as well.

So I told him it will only take one drive to change his mind on the gayness of them(granted mine is a bit faster than stock). Decided to go a little crazy, or at least I pushed the car way harder than I have before.

Our house in St George is on a plateau with not a lot of houses yet(being developed) so you can drive fast without worrying about pedestrians. Pegging redline in 2nd & 3rd going quite a bit sideways and looking over at your passenger as he is laughing/shitting his pants/looking for an oh shit handle, just made my day. He was saying it was probably the fastest car he has ever been in and definitely changed his mind about the "stereotype". A nice compliment to hear from someone after all your hard work.

I just can't imagine Soviet's car, with 150 +/- more horsepower. I am more than happy with my power...for now!

I love this car so much. Even doing all that it was completely predictable and balanced. Just a second or two of nervousness is always had after full boost is hit.

These tires will not last long.:giggle:

Got a little work done on some issues I was having in the engine bay.

Bought a universal Wastegate bracket from ATPTurbo. Was going to have one made but this was only $15 and it had a lot of adjustment built into it. Way quality and much thicker than my old bracket. Nice that it is CNC cut as well. Gave me the extra 1/4" I needed for the wastegate to align properly.

Then I had to grind down the wastegate arm so I could fit the E-clip properly. Mine was too thick and I couldn't get the eclip in the groove properly.

The TSE inconel studs haven't moved a single MM, they were expensive but worth it.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1407560746

New 90º throttle body elbow. The flyin' miata piece was too thick and wouldn't allow the clamps to properly seal it against the pipe. Tested it by burning some paper and saw it suck the smoke in under load. New one was perfect after trimming an inch off of it.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1407560746

Curly shipped me the upper timing belt cover to help protect it from crud a little better.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1407560746

Decided to put the Cusco Brace on the car and see if I can feel a difference at all. Plus I should hopefully be done yanking crap out of the engine bay for a little while so it won't be in my way now.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1407560746

Followed the link in Jeffbucc's sig on MazdaRoadster to this build thread. Over the last few days I've read through all of it. I may have skimmed a bit of the wiring and tuning though. Beautiful car Jeff. And watching the build was fantastic. All the eye candy but none of the pain. I cheered when I saw that PPF. Awesome.

That video was fantastic.

Also, oil pressure gauge.

I enjoyed watching your TDI sportwagen vids too. Woot.

I wish the Miata sounded like my Jetta. The 3" exhaust on my TDI has the perfect sound to it. Confuses the hell out of everyone when they see it coming from a Jetta.

That feeling when you get all the crap in your garage stowed away and outta the way. I need to go through it all one of these days and start a for sale thread.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1407864626

Your car gave me a boner. The size of your garage made me cum.......

At one point I had 2 Miata shells and all the parts from the cars in the garage and I could still fit my Jetta inside. If I could fit a lift in it I'd cum as well.

You guys just talking about it made me.........

.....well, you know

:giggle:

:naughty:

A small object always makes the hole look bigger. ;)


Garage looks nice and clean as I would only expect your OCD to allow.

I detect a distinct lack of a female. I only have 1 room in the house . . . the garage . . . and I have to fight for it everyday.

Yeah I was giving panorama mode a try on my S4. It does a pretty good job stitching the photos together.

:facepalm:

Sadly between the car, the business, and my insomnia....I can't muster the energy to put an effort towards wasting more money on attracting the fairer sex. ;)

On a more serious note. What is the easiest/quickest way to change a fuel map for a much higher altitude?

The drive between St George and Cedar City is a 3,200ft of elevation gained. The car starts running really lean at 6k feet and my whole VEAL map gets pretty messed up. Starting the car up I'm all of a sudden idling at 16.7 instead of being stoic.

Not sure how to load a new map or if I need to apply a different tune with settings applicable to 6k elevation.

You have toset up the baro correction. Please post your actual baro table... Wait, does your MS3 have 2 independent sensors?

You could look into what I am currently researching for my MS3 setup. Switchable tables. You can run them a number of different ways. I plan to run a manual switch on my setup to swap the tables in the ECU. I plan to use it as a anti-theft device (hidden switch) but the concept should work for you to swap tables.

I found this LINK but I am trying to gather up more details about the whole process. It is a start... but I wish I could deliver a more complete answer for you (still researching).

I thought I read somewhere that the MS3 will recalibrate the baro when the engine is restarted/ECU is powercycled, thus not needing multiple baro sensors? Don't quote me on that though

I still don't understand why you'd need baro correction if you're using a MAP at the manifold anyways.

I am dealing with that same issue when traveling from Cedar to St George and back as well. I have one of Revs MS2's and I installed the mapdaddy with two sensors, so I would have a second sensor for outside air pressure

Ive checked all my soldering joints and I made sure everything is in the correct place, but no matter what I do, when I change settings to use it, it just reads outside air pressure at 100 constantly and makes car run like crap.

Air pressure in cedar is around 82-83, and was around 96 last time i was in St George.

Heading down is not much of an issue, but when I travel back uphill though, I gain some speed and have it do a reboot on the road, maybe twice on the way up.
(neutral, turn car off, wait a bit to make sure engine has stopped, turn car on to get new "initial" reading, turn back on, match revs) It is annoying as hell, I want to get the other sensor working.


It samples the air pressure when you start for a base reading, at Cedar city at about 5600 ft air pressure is 83 kPa, if you go to the ocean, where it is 101 kPa, it compensates by adding more fuel based on the initial reading. When you drive and your altitude changes by about 4000 ft within an hour it makes the car run like crap because it is either putting too much fuel or not enough because it thinks the outside air pressure is the same as where you cranked the car

What I think he's trying to say is there's more to pressure than just pressure.
lol
Its to compensate for density changes in the air that's being pressurized

Well, sure. Kinda?

I had the MSM up to 12k feet last year. Yes, it ran a little weird, but we're talking elevation where the car was only pulling 15-16" of vacuum on full decel.

What i'm not braining is why it matters. You're measuring what's going on in the manifold, not what's going on outside of the car. Air density may change outside of the car, but does that really matter? Wouldn't less air just mean less pressure means less map reading?

Boost means more air in a given space = more dense, yes?

If there's somehow less air being put into the motor at a given kPa, wouldn't the car actually run RICH, not lean?

I'm probably missing something big. Or i am teh smrts?

As I read on another forum while reasearching this a litttle,

I too am confused on why the car runs lean at a higher altitude. In my brain it only makes sense that it would run more rich, rather than an almost full 2 point afr change towards lean.

Weird thing is that even after cycling my key on and off it wouldn't change the initial Baro reading.

Need to do some more reading on this.