What's in your sink?

Crocheted dish rag. Damn I know my way around the kitchen.

Mom's spaghetti.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1410552302

Yup, the grandma homemade crocheted dish rag. I don't like supporting corporate conglomerations to wash my dishes...:facepalm:;)

I just hope I don't miss registration Sunday. An I-15 bridge got washed out(like, completely gone) due to 5 inches of rain in an hour, and traffic is diverted way the hell out to US-93. Hear it adds anywhere from 2-4 hours to a 2 hour drive.

This was seriously a top 5 moment of the weekend.

Dont worry about me! Like we discussed, I already had another agreement to fill at least 2 sessions. I actually ended up on track for 6 in total. 4 driving, 2 riding with Ryan Passey(ThePass) and Moti(Blackbird Fabworx)

Glad youre ok, car, business, and all! :rofl:

Ooo, bunny butchery. Not to "one up" you, but I did the same with a skunk in my Mustang back in the day. Top half ended up in the radiator/condenser and bottom half ended up spraying its contents all over the underside of the car. I've never experienced anything quite as rancid as skunk spray burning off an exhaust system.

Human meat smells kindof fun burning on a hot exhaust pipe.


The resulting burn on my leg for the next couple weeks wasn't so fun, though.

Oh man, sounds like you had an absolute riot on the track! Good to hear man.

The last couple hours of the drive were a little scary. I had the windows rolled down, Rage Against the Machine playing at 11, and many slaps self inflicted so that I would get there without passing out.

I'm gavomiting at the thought of that smell. That is the thing of nightmares...you win sir.

Same with human hair burning. Hard to get that smell out of your nose. When I was in highschool I was lighting our grille for some burgers, and the pilot wasn't sparking. So I decided to lean over the grille as I lit it manually like the dumb shit I was...burned off my eyebrows and half my hippy hair due to the nuclear mushroom cloud of fire and finished the second half of high school with a shaved head. I swear I smelled burnt hair for days.:bowrofl:

:laugh:

Cold magnetic object stick like shit. Er... poorly. They stick very poorly. When they're warm and can conform to a door, they work great. But on a cold morning? No sir.

Definitely bring tape. Also, the turbo heat shield is great for warming numbers and breakfast burritos.

Very cool on the ID's and pump. :party:

Cold morning in Vegas?:rofl: I did not know that about cold affecting the magnets, makes sense though.

So glad I am not the only one that thinks the FM heatshield is the perfect size for a couple strips of bacon and eggs!:rofl:

I am excited to have a non-lumpy idle and less than 70% duty cycle on the pump.

The RC750s idle for crap.

Question real quick.

What is the easiest way to run off wastegate rather than my EBC without messing with my tune substantially? Just set I & D to 0% and P to 100%?

Reason I ask is I think I am going to run off just wastegate tomorrow for a little more control, and a lot less burning my rubber. I know I know lrn2drive.:noob:

Will doing so affect other areas of my tune? mainly VEAL?

If the "other areas" were tuned when the car was tuned, it will be fine. If not, you might need to do some touch up tuning. Best way is to wire in a switch to the grounding wire off the ebc, and have the choice of switching between the two at the flick of a switch.

For now just disconnect the wire

I'm guessing the switch needs to be inline on the ground wire?

Gracias party member Vladimir.

Da, comrade

Well that was a painful day. 99º and no clouds and no wind. Everyones cars were overheating, half of the cars bailed after lunch, tire traction was laughable at best(no one was getting good results), and it didn't help it was a very fast setup with hard braking regions.

After futzing with my normal tune I yanked my ebc and ran off wastegate(10-12psi) I got my best result. Adjusted my VEAL to compensate for dropping 1k elevation and it helped a lot, but I was running pretty rich all day long and 10 miles from home I toasted my wideband sensor. I think it was already on the way out since it was the original sensor on the wrecked car.

Car ran like a top though. Didn't get past 210º coolant temps and ran strong all day long. Took a couple people for rides and had a little fun "sliding" through the track. We were laughing our asses off. Helps that I don't take the times to seriously so I wasn't bothered by the lack of traction, I just wanted to have fun.

My best time of the day was 54.7. Best overall time was around 49.5 by a guy in a Mazdaspeed(prepared category). Not bad, not great, but I am coming to hate these Rivals after driving a car with RS3s. So much more feedback and lateral grip! Huge Miata turn out. Think there was around 20 of us. Fun time with a bunch of great guys.

To be honest, if I want to do anything, I need to get 15x9 or 10s with 245 Hoosiers. I just can't get the traction I want, even just running wastegate.

I'll upload the rest tomorrow, but I am sunburned, and hideously dehydrated even after downing a couple gallons of water.

Excuse the clunking. The mic fell onto the floor behind the seat and a water kept tapping it.:crx:

That is literally the WORST thing you could do.

I mean, sure the 15x9s are a great idea but going with Hoosiers this early in your driver "development" is a huge, HUGE mistake.

Learn how to drive on shitty tires with no grip/traction and you will be way, way better off for it.

Honestly, you'll never be able to get the traction you want. There's NEVER enough grip. Trust me.

Are you taking tire temperatures? Hot air pressures? Checking your alignment throughout an event? etc. etc. I'd be willing to bet that there's grip left in your set up as is.

I second that Hoosier's sounds like a terrible idea. From what I understand when they let go they just let go. There is no warning. You will be traveling very fast and then have no grip. You may end up putting that beautiful car into a wall. Stick with high performance street tires for a while.

I haven't bought a pyrometer yet but I have been playing with tire pressure after every single heat. Took 2 seconds off my time with 38 in the rear and 36 in the front after being around 30-32.

You do bring up a very valid point on going to them too early. I just wish I could utilize the cars potential more, but seem to be hitting a wall when it comes to applying said potential. I realize that 300hp @2300lbs is too much for autocross on Rivals but we'll see with some more seat time.

On the alignment note, this is the second time my steering wheel was knocked off center after an autocross. Is this a normal thing that happens to a lot of people or is the alignment shop just not torquing the alignment bolts enough?

Talking to most of the Miata guys at the event, almost every single one of them was running RS3s and were all giving me looks like, "why are you using Rivals?"

The alignment bolts did change after the first few years of the MK1 to a finer (IIRC) thread as alignment slippage was an issue.

if the bolts are original, it could be worth changing them to new ones.

The new style bolts have a green-blue finish if they are oem. Worth it.

Yeah, I came here to say alignment bolts. Apparently they stretch or something with reuse and should be replaced with some frequency.

One of the becauseracecar guys once told me that after I get the car alignment where I wanted it, take a breaker bar and tighten them bitches like there is no tomorrow... and then order another set for the next time you do your alignment.

+1 on the "you'll never have enough grip" thing. Because you won't. Show me a 100 HP E-stock Miata and I'll show you a driver that wants more grip. :)

Your video looked pretty good. Very smooth.

What size was the tire/wheel package of the RS3 car you drove? It would make sense to have more feedback and a more progressive grip loss if they're 225s on 9s instead of your 225s on 8s. I certainly noticed a (negative) difference switching to 8s.

Need to watch the video still.

Seems these days most people are going to the Rivals, never heard that they're not as good as the RS3s.

I have heard that for autocrosd rs3's are better because they have more peak grip. Most people I have talked to like rivals on the road course becaise they handle heavy braking zones much better and are more predictable at the limit.

Interesting. Thanks for sharing, hadn't heard that. I had planned to go to Rivals for my next tire, what you said makes me even more prone to go that way -- we all know I could use more control :laugh:

carry on

New radiator ducting is gonna begin tomorrow. Finally got the call that they expect the 48x96 sheet in tomorrow.

Bumper off and old undertray taken off. Lots of cardboard templates made.

Question on the front bumper bar. Is it needed to keep the bumper shape properly? Reason I ask is that I want to do a curved ABS panel that goes from the top of the radiator down to the bumper opening, and it is painfully in the way. Trying to get the air to run smoothly into the radiator. In my head, all the dead space above the radiator opening doesn't give an efficient flow, so I'm trying to encourage it with the cowling to go exactly where I want it to.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1410921571

I don't think it does. There are a bunch of people who have installed RX7 oil coolers in place of the big plastic bumper thing with no ill effects. I believe Savington did this on Theseus. Of course, just don't hit anything.


https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1410926734
You are talking about this, right?

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1410926734
The first time I saw something like this was on a Winston Cup Car about 15 years ago, and I'd always wanted to try it back with I had my 95 NA.


https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1410926734
I always thought if someone built something like this, it would be pretty cool to share the templates.

Maximum Boost has some numbers in it regarding angles and surface opening areas compared to core size, and I know there are "optimal" angles and radii that should not to be exceeded lest the air separate from the surface and tumble, but its beyond my knowledge base. Fluid dynamics y0

Yes to everything you posted. That is exactly what I'm doing. It will be a very gentle bend. Should not be enough to create an air turbulence pocket or "eddy" if using a river as an example. I'll definitely use some string and a go pro to see if I avoided that.

The whole reason I started getting more serious about this, or at least a partial reason, is Revlimiter approached me about trading products. I can't do the magic he does, and he doesn't want to bother with this(I'm sure he is more than capable).

So I'm making 2. His setup is close enough to mine that it should work great. Just in case we've taken some measurements.

I bought an 18" metal bending brake so I wouldn't have to score lines(to encourage a straight bend) in the plastic and potentially cause a weak point to crack over time. It's going to run all the way back to the rear of the front subframe. A couple 90° bends at the frame rails(in the wheel arches for engine bay sealing) for rigidity, and have tabs to mount the cowling to the radiator fan mounts to ensure a good seal.

Sounds really complicated, but once you look at it long enough, it isn't so bad. I'll be sure to take measurements for anyone who wants to make something similar. My price went down on plastic too. $62 including tax for a 48"x96" sheet!

Also, I want to make 2 little cuts to make my life entirely easier with this....I wish! I actually need to look into this and how it affects rigidity. Maybe cut it and weld in a piece of square steel that is much smaller?

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1410931208

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1410932494
Flyin' Miata : Engine conversions : V8 conversions : V8 CAI brace

I say got for it :)

Money! Gracias good sir. I also read DOM tubing is very strong as well. My fingers are getting itchy to grab my angle grinder and zip it off real quick. After looking at several threads and ThePass's car, it is nuts how much airflow it opens up to your upper radiator.

Is it necessary? No. To those who may comment on it being unnecessary for proper cooling, you are correct. Does it make things easier in the end for a good ducting solution? Hell yes.

Might wanna ask Rev if he's willing to do the same to his car though.

But no, it's not necessary to cut that out for proper ducting. And no, you cannot leave it out, something needs to be welded in. Hopefully something prettier than the above picture of the angle iron.

I've found the plastic very difficult to deal with, I've used leather for years now, works great.

The FM part far nicer that just a chunk of "angle iron." It looks like a piece of 1/4" steel that has been cut with a laser or waterjet and then folded into shape. I got to fondle the one in Gesso's garage a couple weekends ago.

But to the point, yes I'm sure one could DIY one with some ease. ;)

Never noticed that with Hoosiers. I ran A6s for five years at our local with my Miata. The grip was always very predictable overall. It really depends on if you have them heated up though. If they are cold then you'll get loose quickly, because it's basically just a slick with some nice light grooves down the middle, but then again some of the slicker street tires like the RS-3 like heat as well and tend to be less progressive when cold.

Once you get heat in the A6 you find that you have a lot more grip than you think you do and it's overall very predictable and easy to drive on. I always found it a challenge to use all the grip most of the time.

That said, I tend to agree with the people who say to learn how to drive with less traction rather than more, but at the same time he has set his car up with a ton of horsepower (300hp?), so the car is very under-tired when autocrossing even with Rivals or RS-3s. If anything it's kind of a waste to drive such a car at autocross without the right suspension setup and tires to match, because you're just gonna be babying it all the time.

The car should have a very stiff spring setup and run at least 15x9s with 245 Hoosiers, better to run 275s on 10s if possible to make the most of it. You should be able to do Rivals and RS-3s if you really take it easy on the throttle and as long as you go for a much larger wheel and tire size (15x9s with at least 225s or better).

Again though, this isn't really the car or setup to learn how to autocross on, but what else has he got?

Maybe do a two day Evo school on the r-comps to really get your driving skills tuned up?

:2cents: I've seen a number of NA's suffer from a warped bumper after some time in the heat without this support or the foam piece that can be found in others.

Local guy took his out and within a relatively short period of time two dips could be seen right in the middle near the hood seam. Granted, this was on a black car but still it did seem to have some effect on retaining the shape. Could have been unrelated but it certainly seemed to be connected to the removal of that support.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1410983514

Because excited.

And don't sell yourself short, Jeff. Your car is a testament to your own magic. It's considerably strong.

If this a street car that he's doing some auto cross for fun in, I'd say putting super stiff springs on and getting 275 Hoosiers is a terrible idea. It's a street car.

Too many people jump to R-compounds too early, and then they handicap themselves and learn all sorts of bad habits all while blowing $$$$ on tires.

If you're not autocrossing, TT'ing, or racing for trophies, contingencies and money, you're wasting your hard earned money on R-compounds.

Jeff...if you're just doing the auto crosses for fun and to start learning "high performance driving" stick with street tires.

If you want to get serious about autocrossing (barf) or track days or TT or anything then I'm sorry but you built the wrong car. That's why you see so many people switching to the "super Miata" formula when they get serious about track time or TT or racing.

Wasn't saying its a great idea, I'm just saying that is what you would have if you wanted to run r-comps at autocross with such a powerful light car and have the best handling, but yeah it makes it less of a fun street car for sure. Everything is a compromise depending on how seriously you want to play the various driving games out there.

I know you'll do a great job on the radiator ducting, but I gotta' ask . . . do you actually need additional cooling?

I like the OEM parts unless there is a compelling reason to change. In particular, given our propensity to nail coyotes and jackrabbits, being able to quickly repair with OEM parts is a plus. Just food for thought.

I can vouch for the fact that during summer out here it gets hot as hell and at lower speeds need as much airflow as possible.

He may not need it now that it has started to cool off, but mid summer here in southern Utah, can not drive through town with the AC on as was not enough airflow.

I ended up cutting and installing WRX bumper vents in my hood and it has helped a ton.

Rev emailed...concerned, I assured him this would only be a done after I made his with all the OEM stuff in tact. I may have forced him to desire a new intercooler but besides that I'm not that amazing at talking people into things!

Also I bought a very nice plastic welder off a guy on craigslist...shit is gonna be legit.

Thank you for that entire post Harv, gave me some good things to think on. Unfortunately when I bought the car I had little idea what 300hp and 2300#s actually meant in terms of speed. Now I am quite aware, and as stated, I don't have a NA Miata to have the benefits of learning on. Like Megasquirt, it is a steep learning curve.

Not sure how much I want to set the car up for autocross. It is fun, but events are few and far between here due to las vegas speedway charging a ludicrous sum to utilize their parking lot for a course. It just seems like there are no options for cheap sites to race at, especially when the event doesn't turn out good numbers to justify it.

I am waiting for another HPDE event to come up and I will sign up for a good learning track day. I think, for now, I will only run off my wastegate when autocrossing or tracking the car. I don't need 300hp OR 25psi of boost.

A lot of people need to remember though that I am learning from scratch. I literally have 2 days TOTAL of autocrossing of experience and that is it. So I'm gonna chalk it up to learning how to use the throttle properly and setting the car up for a turn correctly and smoothing my steering wheel inputs to avoid any unnecessary preemptive loss of traction due to human error, and not tire traction limits.

I haven't had the foam in the car since day one, and the car is garaged constantly when not driving, but after you and Rev have both pointed this out I'm becoming more leary of doing this modification. Especially when I consider resale value of someone wanting the car JUST for driving on public roads. (I aint sellin' but just in case...;) )

Are that few of people really running turbo setups on the track? I figured the SUpermiata formula was due to people wanting the reliability of a NA car, and the lower maintenance and cost of it as well.

Honestly though, what I am considering is getting a smaller turbo(EFR 6258) and taking advantage or the faster boost spool for lower peak HP

Honestly? I do. Even with the numerous bleeding of the radiator(I haven't seen bubbles in over a week), and my current ducting, I saw a little coolant in my engine bay. Could be a leak, and I didn't get proper logs of my coolant temps during the autox day, but what I am hoping is that $40 and a lot of time can improve my airflow through the radiator, and avoid more costly solutions like the TSE radiator or the Supermiata radiator(which I still am not sure if it will be sufficient for my power).

I'm seesawing back and forth on cutting it, and won't make a drastic or sudden decision immediately. I can visualize a pretty good boost in airflow efficiency by doing it, along with improving the ducting to seal the frontal area better.
=
=
=
My pretties showed up. Surprised how honestly small they are. Way smaller than my RC750s. Guess that is new technology for yah.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1411097751

All ready to go. Going to replace all the fuel lines that go to the M-tuned rail while I'm at it too.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1411097751

Plastic is still shipping. Hope it shows up tomorrow because I've got a rivet gun and a swank plastic welder to get started on Rev's cowling.
:party:

The head and intake manifold look dirty, better pull the engine and clean it :party:

Of course I cleaned it all up!;)

Sadly I didn't get any photos of said cleanup, I was a little into it and forgot to take many pictures. Also, delayed cowling project due to the shipment not arriving till this coming Monday.

Clipped off the RC750 connectors off and crimped on the new ones. Spent some time cleaning up the harness a little, and the M-tuned rail. Slipped the injectors on and bolted the rail and FPR back up. Took the old fuel lines off and put new ones on. I also tucked the fuel lines under the I.M. out of sight a little better.

Then I threw in the new W.B. sensor and, while I was in there, dropped in 4 new BKR7EIX-11 plugs. Old ones had been through hell and back while I was learning to tune the engine properly/TS AFR readings were off.

Threw the upper I.M. back on and got all the vacuum connections slipped back on. Then spent an hour or so organizing the hoses & wiring in the "rats nest" area. Good to have my engine bay back.

Now I just need to plug in all the new deadtime settings from Injector Dynamics into T.S. and start her up.

I didn't install the Walbro 255 after reading it can overwhelm the stock FPR. I may return it and get a Walbro190 or a DW200, we'll see what my duty cycle is when I get it running.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1411231307

As "clean" as I can make it. Not great, not bad.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1411231307

what pump are you running right now? cause I'm pretty sure the dw200 is just a silent walbro255

lol @ Not great. That's beautiful.

I see no mention of an aftermarket fuel pump in the original for sale thread so I will assume the stock pump.

I run under the assumption that it can always be better. A shitty, expensive, and time consuming mind set for life in general.:facepalm::rofl:

OK, I need help on just one data point for the id1000s. I have all the information plugged in correctly but can't seem to find the info on the injector timing table data points for these. I'm assuming I'm overlooking something but I may be a little brain dead to track it down.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1411235863

For the record, my DW200 is silent.

Of course I can't hear anything over my hood vibrating thanks to the engine mounts :hahano:

Can't see why injector timing table soul change by inj type. It is typically set to be the end of the pulse, though that is a variable. 380 degrees means 20 degrees before TDC before the intake stroke. In to see if I'm missing a fine point.

he's mine on the vvt + e85 setup
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...1&d=1411242900

Looks like I did a classic think too hard about something and it isn't even applicable research.

Looks like I'm good to go on startup.

Is the wally255 really that loud? Seeing as I don't daily this and I expect loudness from the get go, will I honestly be bugged by it?

Also, I'm currently jumping f/p to gnd to get my fuel pump to work. Downside is that, with key on, the pump is always running. Is there a way to just wire this pump directly to MS for correct cycling on ignition?

Re: Wally 255 being loud... Did it bother you in my car? No? Didn't think so. I don't think you'll even be able to hear it while the engine is running without really paying attention.

I don't feel like it's at all annoying.

Oh! I thought you had a DW! Dude, I had no idea. That shit is overblown. I think I heard your pump less than the current pump in my car.

Props good sir.:makeout:

Yeah I really don't understand how they got a bad rap for being loud. Maybe installed in a stock car with a stock exhaust?

In for answer to your second question.

The wally 190HP was by far the loudest fuel pump I've ever installed in a car. While sitting at stoplights I could hear my blinkers in the tone of the pump. Maybe it was because it was the HP model? I think Dave now has it installed in his car and AFAIK he does not seem to mind it, but Dave is way more hardcore than I.

I fully admit to being a giant wuss and I <3 my DW200 because its completely silent. If my Subaru ever needs a pump, It'll probably also get a 200 as well.

As for the change of injectors, I think your right on following up with the tables. The IDs are bitchen' injectors, but they are only as good as your ECU tells them to be.

Just checked my fuel settings and I've got this:

Attachment 238870

Fuel Injector Clinic EV14 650cc, settings as shipped in my MS3 Basic. Not sure if that helps or not, but that's what I'm using.

I ain't no pussy...unless I'm driving my Jetta, then I demand comfort.

The only one I was wondering about, was the injector timing table. Which isn't affected by injector swapping as I thought(so it seems).

The other graphs/data is adjusted based off Injector Dynamics Megasquirt settings, which is awesome to have. No unnecessary logs to run, just clear and concise data. If anyone is contemplating FIC( not pointing at you EO2K) or any other injectors, do you want to guess what your deadtimes are, and run a lot of logs, or let them do all the hard work for you.

The data is worth the extra cost. You gotta pay to play, but as in most things that is applicable to, is worth it from my experience. At the end of the day. I never regret quality, only cutting corners.

Mine is the HP model. I seriously don't know what people are complaining about. I don't even notice the sound unless the car is off. I definitely hear the fuel pump priming, and I like that -- that way I know it's working!

Edit: Gordon, you've got dildo engine mounts and you can't handle a little whine from your fuel pump? :laugh:

Fuel pump installs are a bitch with race seats/hardtop. Not so much the install, but the removal.

Pump is in, going to crank it over tomorrow. I need to give the garage time to not kill my brain cells.

Well that was less dramatic than I thought the initial startup was going to be.

I did find out I tore the O-ring on my FPR valve after cycling the key. The FPR sprayed fuel EVERYWHERE. Quickly turned the key off and mopped it all up and then waited 15 minutes till the fuel fully evaporated. Luckily the original owner had about 100 O-rings he gave me, so I tossed a new one on and trepidatiously turned the key to ignition again. All good, no pressure washer levels of fuel and no leaks from the fuel rail or injectors.

In the video, which is the first start, you can see me slightly panicking at what I thought was a sudden loud lifter tick. Luckily after a bit of google I found that the id1000s are loud like that. Crisis in head averted.

After warmup idle is dead smooth, like suspiciously so. Maybe I'm just not used to good injectors but I had roughly a .1 deviation on my AFR gauge and <30 rpmdot oscillation. I still haven't done any tuning as well, besides the data from the ID website I plugged in.

I do need to adjust my throttle enrichment tip-in. Goes a little too lean for my satisfaction and I need to make some small adjustments to my closed loop idle since idle droop recovery is a little slow as well. That is easy though, no biggie.

I am the excite
:party:

excuse my ugly mug :facepalm: