rleete

iTrader: (21)

I'll see what I have. Plenty of stuff lying around, just have to find something that's appropriate. BTW, PM me your mailing address.

RotorNutFD3S

iTrader: (33)

You're going to love those headlights. Definitely one of my favorite modifications when I had an NA.

Efini~FC3S

iTrader: (4)

I don't know why I keep coming into this thread, and keep having my mind blown.

I should be prepared for it by now you would think.

Also, thank you for the painting of the rotors. The slight imperfections in the tape job prove that you are actually human, I was beginning to worry.


Dude, serious props, this is so nice. This motivates me to get my arms and suspension bits powder coated

bikersam717

iTrader: (5)

vehicular

iTrader: (3)

How are your emmissions laws un Utah? We don't have inspections in AL, so I threw away all of the solenoids and crapola on the passenger apron, and it made a huge difference in engine bay cleanliness.

revlimiter

iTrader: (1)

Good lord, that powdercoated stuff looks tasty.

DEFINITELY attend to the grounding on your dash frame. After I POR-15'd mine, I didn't even think of the grounding. I went in a year later and built a grounding network for it.

There's grounds at both ends of the frame, both sides of the instrument cluster (I just mentioned one ground twice because it's both at the end of the frame and on the left of the instrument cluster), and grounds in the center for the radio and HVAC. At least, those were the grounds for my 95 harness when plugged into my NA6 dash frame.

And as for stickers on the door guard, I could probably produce some as soon as now...

hornetball

iTrader: (4)

Really, really nice Jeff. Seems silly to just keep giving compliments without otherwise contributing to the thread, but I can't help myself.

Now that you have all the bits . . . you'll be driving Sunday evening I presume?

rleete

iTrader: (21)

Why would he not drive it as soon as he finished? Why wait?

Ryan_G

iTrader: (8)

Lol. So tonight, right?

turbofan

iTrader: (1)

Wish I could contribute, but I'm too feeble. Amazing, amazing work. Every time I think I have a vision about how awesome your car is going to be, you take that vision and make it more awesome. Which is awesome.

By the way, it looks like you bought everything more or less separately, but now you're putting it all together? Did you built the engine first or did it come all together or separately?

EO2K

iTrader: (37)

I hate this thread.

BRB: I'm going to go burn my car to the ground.

RotorNutFD3S

iTrader: (33)

I think your participation in brian07's thread has caused some problems.

turbofan

iTrader: (1)

Jeffbucc

Glad to hear another good review, I love the look it gives the front of the car, much more aggressive.

I ran a razor blade over the small imperfections to hide my human error! Do it! After spending the time grinding a couple of the control arms and painting them myself the time vs. money spent to powder coat them is well worth it to just hand them off to the pros.

Cedar City is the AL of UT. Or the ID of UT I should say. There are none. Which is good because my VW would never pass emissions in SLC, UT. What solenoids can be removed? I wasn't too sure which ones were ok to clip and which I needed to keep. I already deleted the charcoal canister.

Stickers are appreciated but not required! Do you happen to have any pictures of the ground location by the headlight cluster?

Also does anyone know where the factory ground locations in the engine bay are?

Keep complimenting even if you have nothing constructive to add! I know it seems silly but the compliments and well wishes really help me keep a positive energy going into the car. It is nice when you put a lot of hard work and effort into something, and sometimes, you have doubts about your work. Those doubts/qualms are dissipated by people who are much more experienced with Miatas than I saying atta' boy.

Awesome.



The engine was fully built when I bought the car with:
Built ’95 1.8L with forged internals.
Bored block with 84 mm 9.0:1 forged supertech pistons
M-tuned connecting rods with ARP2000 hardware
ARP Head studs
ACL race bearings
Balanced rotating assembly
Billet oil pump gear
’99 miata head, ported, polished, 3 angle valve job, backcut valves
’99 miata intake manifold with active VICs controlled by the megasquirt computer
750cc RC injectors

Please don't, you'll regret it!


Thanks again for the compliments guys, you think I inspire you but you guys have really helped the momentum keep going by pushing the positive energy back into me when sometimes I just want to curl into my bed and turn the master breaker switch off for 3-4 days.

turbofan

iTrader: (1)

LOL sorry Jeff, I do remember that the car was built before you bought it. Was making a reference to this thread: https://www.miataturbo.net/build-thr...3/#post1095327

Jeffbucc

Oh god that is some bad English. I hadn't been following it too closely so it went way over my head.

hornetball

iTrader: (4)

There is a link to a 1992 Mazda Miata FSM in a sticky. You should download that (the 90-93 are all pretty much the same). The wiring diagrams in that FSM are much more detailed than what you find in the parts store manuals. They indicate grounding points, connector locations, connector pinouts, etc., etc.

EDIT: It looks like those manuals were removed from the site. Bummer. PM Brain or one of the other mods to see if they still have a link. Worst case, I can put the copy I have on a file exchange place for you.

Oscar

iTrader: (2)

Try this for wiring (and more) diagrams. Pretty colours too.

hornetball

iTrader: (4)

Mellens is OK, but not quite the Mazda FSM

I just put the 90-93 Mazda FSM (~90MB) in a shared Dropbox folder. If any of you want it, you'll need to join Dropbox (www.dropbox.com) and then PM me your Dropbox ID so I can link you to it.

Jeffbucc

Spent most of today tracking wiring paths down, I think I almost have where the cut wires belong figured out.

Also polished some of the yellow out of the dash lights



I suck with a soldering iron...



Couldn't get the yellow out of the coolant overflow tank, so I decided to paint it instead.





The front portion of the dash was dented, so I'm switching it from the CO car's dash. I would just use the CO dash but its cracked really bad on the top.