EO2K

iTrader: (37)

I should mention with the proper gasket you shouldn't NEED RTV, especially with something like the throttle body. I mean, heaven forbid you get a new gasket Not like its coming off now though

Jeffbucc

Do you recommend the tester rather than a aftermarket gauge?


They essentially do the same thing This way, if the bolts fall out, I know it isn't going anywhere!

I'm at the point where I will do anything to spend no more money on the car. I'd rather start putting the money towards a down payment on a house.

Jeffbucc

OK a little progress tonight. I bought a shitty napa mechanical gauge to do an independent test of the oil system. Yanked the sensor off the block and installed it.

First I decided to try to bleed some of the air out of the lines. I ripped some clear tubing off my brake bleeder and taped it to the vacuum as well as I could. Then I jammed it in the hole as well as I could and bled until the majority of the air came out. I did this on the sensor bung and the turbo oil feed line.



Then I hooked up the gauge and cranked for around 10-15 seconds. I saw around 30 psi on the gauge, but I never trust the shitty hard line compression brass fittings on these things(mostly talking about plumbing experiences).

Soooo making progress at least! I'm hoping that it is just a minor leak in the hard line and having not started the motor to really get some pressure in the line.

Is it normal, when you stop cranking the motor, for pressure to bleed off immediately?

Just trying to think what else I can try here. Maybe replace the hard line with clear tubing? and use a hose clamp to clamp it down?

So 30 psi is a low reading of what the motor is actually developing I hope. I will say I saw a much quicker response pressure wise after vacuuming the air out of the lines.

Shitty gauge picture. I tried to find a oil pressure bleeder, but I don't have a harbour freight close by.

eduTechnic

Pressure stops immediately because liquids don't compress and the oil has a place to go. Glad you saw pressure.

curly

iTrader: (25)

30psi is really good for just the starter. Plug everything back in a start the motor. You're fine.

Zaphod

+1 - fire her up...!

Jeffbucc

Awesome, thanks guys, I thought it needed to develop +/- 60 PSI.

Wired in my flyback correctly on my Idle Valve wires a la:



Tested continuity on the EBC, which didn't respond. Stripped back the shrink wrap and found the flyback diode had broken probably due to me tugging on the wiring to route it. So a new diode and we are back in business. I put a couple extra layers of shrink wrap around the soldered area to strengthen it up.

I reinstalled the OEM oil sensor and connected the gauge back up.

Right now I'm trying to figure out why I still can't get the tach to work.

As per Zaphod's completely over the top wiring diagram he made for me, the tach out signal on the DB12 connector, 2B, is being routed to the yellow/blue wire on the igniter, which is the tach signal.

Also I thought I would note that tunerstudio is displaying the RPM's, so ms3x is receiving data.

Jeffbucc

hmmm after wiring the diode on both Idle Valve wires instead of just the +12v I get a loud hum from the TB area and no cranking...what did I do wrong here?

Fireindc

iTrader: (13)

humming noise is normal for the idle valve until you adjust the frequency. No idea why it would not crank though..

Zaphod

TPS calibration set in tuner studio?
Also the frequency for the NB idle valve is 511Hz .

BTMiata

iTrader: (5)

Nothing wrong. You definitely need to adjust the iac valve frequency in idle settings... I recently had the same thing last week when I installed my MS for the first time

https://www.miataturbo.net/megasquir...hen-key-78404/

Jeffbucc

Yeah frequency was set to 511hz, but still no start or even coming close to cranking. I'm still receiving power to MS, but upon listening to the car more closely when attempting to crank, the fuel pump is now turning on upon cranking.

I'm going to go buy some more fuel and see if that has anything to do with it. I only put a gallon or so in so who knows.

Jeffbucc

Also MAP is reading around 180+ degrees now...what the hell did I just do.

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

this is me just staring at the screen disapprovingly...

Jeffbucc

Care to elaborate? I'm guessing I had it right the first time with it only on the +12v?

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

well, the picture you posted of the diode is a correct way of wiring it.

what's the freq. of your idle valve set to in your msq? it needs to be much higher for an NB valve vs. the 93 of ~200Hz.


I personally would have wired the tachout to 2I which sends it directly to the ignitor, then all you gotta do is connect teh y/b with w/b wire.

Jeffbucc

Couldn't help notice the clarification of alternate solutions in those two words. What is your preferred method of wiring a flyback into the wiring?

Jeffbucc

Also I set the frequency to 511.

That makes so much sense on the tach out wiring, jesus why didn't I see that...

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

I do it inside the case. but same idea: banded end to 12v, non-banded end to the output/signal wire.

I would have done it inside your DIYBOB if anything. would have been much easier than hacking up wiring.

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

good thing is, it'll take you like what, 2 seconds to move the wire inside your diybob. if that's what you wanna do.