95m goes kinda fast for kinda cheap
#164
So change of plans, kinda.
I picked up a used vvt motor for an absolute steal, due in no small part to ridethecliche!
The motor will need a new oil pump. I was thinking of going with another priority mazda pump, maybe even opening up the bottom end and throwing in a set of ebay rods, I have a few questions
If the rings are good and I want to do rods, should I even bother replacing the rings?
Should I use my 95 block with the lower compression ratio or the 03 block with high compression? I'm just curious if the NB crank sensor will mount to the 95 block, I like my high pressure feed port.
should I do ms3 basic to control vvt? Or could I get away with ms1 and vvt tuner?
Curious to hear opinions on this new step in the build. The vvt motor will be built and the 95 motor will be left in until I want to swap. 210 hp is wicked fun right now but I got a stinkin' deal for this motor that I couldn't turn down
I picked up a used vvt motor for an absolute steal, due in no small part to ridethecliche!
The motor will need a new oil pump. I was thinking of going with another priority mazda pump, maybe even opening up the bottom end and throwing in a set of ebay rods, I have a few questions
If the rings are good and I want to do rods, should I even bother replacing the rings?
Should I use my 95 block with the lower compression ratio or the 03 block with high compression? I'm just curious if the NB crank sensor will mount to the 95 block, I like my high pressure feed port.
should I do ms3 basic to control vvt? Or could I get away with ms1 and vvt tuner?
Curious to hear opinions on this new step in the build. The vvt motor will be built and the 95 motor will be left in until I want to swap. 210 hp is wicked fun right now but I got a stinkin' deal for this motor that I couldn't turn down
Last edited by Forrest95M; 03-15-2017 at 08:23 AM.
#165
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You will need new rings and bearings if you open up the motor. There is no getting around that. Use the 95 block, and 95 pistons for the lower compression. You will need a VVT oil pump, you can either use the one off the VVT motor, or buy a BE one. The NB crank sensor will bolt onto any VVT oil pump. Any MS3 will control VVT, as long as the proper circuits are built.
#166
You will need new rings and bearings if you open up the motor. There is no getting around that. Use the 95 block, and 95 pistons for the lower compression. You will need a VVT oil pump, you can either use the one off the VVT motor, or buy a BE one. The NB crank sensor will bolt onto any VVT oil pump. Any MS3 will control VVT, as long as the proper circuits are built.
#168
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#169
Aidan is correct about needing the hone. I have rods only build in my garage right now that I need to finish. I think I am at about $500 in costs not including the rods. Machine shop cost about $150 to have them clean, check the block and crank and all, and hone the block. Then a few hundred in rings, bearings, gaskets, and miscellaneous pieces that were needed.
#171
Also is the bp4w pump from priority mazda a pump that will flow high enough for a vvt engine?
#172
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Alright, I didn't realize that if the seal is broken they will never reseat. I thought it was more like lifters where it's fine as long as it's put back where it came from. I'm also probably not going to touch this bottom end considering this turbo maxes out around 230-250 whp.
Also is the bp4w pump from priority mazda a pump that will flow high enough for a vvt engine?
Also is the bp4w pump from priority mazda a pump that will flow high enough for a vvt engine?
#173
Priority Mazda sells 2 different oil pumps. One for 90-00 for non-vvt motors, and it is like $110 or something. Then they sell the VVT pump which is $279. At the $279 price point you might as well just buy a BE pump for slightly more. Or just run the pump from the VVT motor you bought.
#176
I was curious as i have not seen anything that shows a spec for idle oil pressure. Only oil pressure between 3-3500rpm when up to operating temp which is 40ish-50ish IIRC.
I actually just did a VVT swap in mine. I did everything wrong by the comments you recieved earlier. 40k mile motor with clean cylinders. I put rods in it without changing bearing or rings. Why? because i am cheap and wanted to try it. If it doesnt work out, i will pull it back out and drop in aftermarket pistons and rings. I did remove all the buildup at the top of the cylinder so that there was no chance of the rings being damaged when removing the pistons. For the bearings, they were all in great shape. I didnt see any need to change them. The manley rods are the same size as the stock ones. The bearings are more sensitive to the crank than the rod from the research i have done. I also put in the BE gearset in the stock VVT pump without shimming the pump. I do wish i would have shimmed it a bit. For my oil pressure, i have about 15-20psi at full operating temp idle. i have 50 at 3k rpm. Thats with the VVT activating. My VVT responds well to demanded position as it is, so i am not too terribly worried about the pressure. We shall see though, It may all blow up in my face but only time will tell. I have been driving it about a week now since the swap.
Also, BE sells the gearsets again. It is the "Stage 0" that they sell. They cost about 250 for the VVT.
I actually just did a VVT swap in mine. I did everything wrong by the comments you recieved earlier. 40k mile motor with clean cylinders. I put rods in it without changing bearing or rings. Why? because i am cheap and wanted to try it. If it doesnt work out, i will pull it back out and drop in aftermarket pistons and rings. I did remove all the buildup at the top of the cylinder so that there was no chance of the rings being damaged when removing the pistons. For the bearings, they were all in great shape. I didnt see any need to change them. The manley rods are the same size as the stock ones. The bearings are more sensitive to the crank than the rod from the research i have done. I also put in the BE gearset in the stock VVT pump without shimming the pump. I do wish i would have shimmed it a bit. For my oil pressure, i have about 15-20psi at full operating temp idle. i have 50 at 3k rpm. Thats with the VVT activating. My VVT responds well to demanded position as it is, so i am not too terribly worried about the pressure. We shall see though, It may all blow up in my face but only time will tell. I have been driving it about a week now since the swap.
Also, BE sells the gearsets again. It is the "Stage 0" that they sell. They cost about 250 for the VVT.
#177
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I was curious as i have not seen anything that shows a spec for idle oil pressure. Only oil pressure between 3-3500rpm when up to operating temp which is 40ish-50ish IIRC.
I actually just did a VVT swap in mine. I did everything wrong by the comments you recieved earlier. 40k mile motor with clean cylinders. I put rods in it without changing bearing or rings. Why? because i am cheap and wanted to try it. If it doesnt work out, i will pull it back out and drop in aftermarket pistons and rings. I did remove all the buildup at the top of the cylinder so that there was no chance of the rings being damaged when removing the pistons. For the bearings, they were all in great shape. I didnt see any need to change them. The manley rods are the same size as the stock ones. The bearings are more sensitive to the crank than the rod from the research i have done. I also put in the BE gearset in the stock VVT pump without shimming the pump. I do wish i would have shimmed it a bit. For my oil pressure, i have about 15-20psi at full operating temp idle. i have 50 at 3k rpm. Thats with the VVT activating. My VVT responds well to demanded position as it is, so i am not too terribly worried about the pressure. We shall see though, It may all blow up in my face but only time will tell. I have been driving it about a week now since the swap.
Also, BE sells the gearsets again. It is the "Stage 0" that they sell. They cost about 250 for the VVT.
I actually just did a VVT swap in mine. I did everything wrong by the comments you recieved earlier. 40k mile motor with clean cylinders. I put rods in it without changing bearing or rings. Why? because i am cheap and wanted to try it. If it doesnt work out, i will pull it back out and drop in aftermarket pistons and rings. I did remove all the buildup at the top of the cylinder so that there was no chance of the rings being damaged when removing the pistons. For the bearings, they were all in great shape. I didnt see any need to change them. The manley rods are the same size as the stock ones. The bearings are more sensitive to the crank than the rod from the research i have done. I also put in the BE gearset in the stock VVT pump without shimming the pump. I do wish i would have shimmed it a bit. For my oil pressure, i have about 15-20psi at full operating temp idle. i have 50 at 3k rpm. Thats with the VVT activating. My VVT responds well to demanded position as it is, so i am not too terribly worried about the pressure. We shall see though, It may all blow up in my face but only time will tell. I have been driving it about a week now since the swap.
Also, BE sells the gearsets again. It is the "Stage 0" that they sell. They cost about 250 for the VVT.
#180
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Full BE pump. If pressure was low then it may not be just the gears worn but the housing. Gears are steel and housing is aluminum. Relief valves are a known issue on our pumps so I'd be really interested in not reusing the housing.