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Old 09-24-2013, 10:54 AM   #41
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Normally when I get one that is stripped like that I weld a nut to it and try to work it out that way with lots of PB and Mapp gas
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Old 09-24-2013, 10:57 AM   #42
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mount it in a vise, heat the turbine housing with a torch and then get a small pipe wrench on the stud.

it helps to tap the housing with a hammer once its heated as well to relieve some stresses and loosen the corrosion.
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Old 09-24-2013, 11:01 AM   #43
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Togeneral99 View Post
Normally when I get one that is stripped like that I weld a nut to it and try to work it out that way with lots of PB and Mapp gas
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Originally Posted by shlammed View Post
mount it in a vise, heat the turbine housing with a torch and then get a small pipe wrench on the stud.

it helps to tap the housing with a hammer once its heated as well to relieve some stresses and loosen the corrosion.
Nice, thanks for the suggestions. I don't have a welder, but I was thinking of that solution. All of the other studs came out smoothly, so I'm hoping that this one will as well, as soon as I can get a good grip on it. I was thinking of just putting the stud in a vice, and turning the turbo instead. I don't want to risk breaking it, though. Autozone loans out stud remover tools - I might try that as well.
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Old 09-24-2013, 11:54 AM   #44
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I used a heat gun and tapped on the top of the stud. Being careful to not put too much preassure as to break it. I broke 1 out of 3 stuck and it was the first one. I heated and tapped for several cycles before it broke free. The key was patience. Good luck!
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Old 09-24-2013, 12:00 PM   #45
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I used a heat gun and tapped on the top of the stud. Being careful to not put too much preassure as to break it. I broke 1 out of 3 stuck and it was the first one. I heated and tapped for several cycles before it broke free. The key was patience. Good luck!
Did you use the locking nut method? Unfortunately, mine is stripped so I can't get a nut on it.
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Old 09-24-2013, 07:26 PM   #46
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If worse comes to worst most machine/automotive places will remove or drill out broken studs for cheap i.e. ~$10
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Old 09-24-2013, 08:11 PM   #47
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You can take the whole thing to the machine shop and say call me when it is finished.
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Old 09-26-2013, 09:38 AM   #48
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Originally Posted by Togeneral99 View Post
If worse comes to worst most machine/automotive places will remove or drill out broken studs for cheap i.e. ~$10
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You can take the whole thing to the machine shop and say call me when it is finished.
Yup. I made this decision last night, after I attempted to remove the exhaust housing bolts. Those suckers wouldn't budge, and there's no way I'm going to get them out with the limited resources that I have. I'm going to call some shops today to see who wants the job. I could probably get the remaining studs out myself, but clocking the damn thing isn't going to happen.

I degreased and cleaned up the transmission a bit yesterday. It's by no means spectacular, but its better. I also got the clutch installed, and also started working on the oil feed. I got the new fitting in the block, with the brass T, and the oil pressure sending unit. I'm waiting to install the feed line until I get the transmission back in, because I want to make sure I route it around the bellhousing correctly.

Hopefully getting the transmission back in tonight.

Pics! Didn't bother taking any of the oil feed, because I'm not a contortionist.





Attached Thumbnails
97 Montego sr20 t25 Turbo Build-20130925_152937_zps52ce4d1a.jpg   97 Montego sr20 t25 Turbo Build-20130925_152912_zpsd68700c1.jpg   97 Montego sr20 t25 Turbo Build-20130925_192936_zpsffe94ed1.jpg  
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Old 09-27-2013, 09:04 AM   #49
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Transmission and driveshaft are back in! So glad that's over with. It feels like the world's been lifted off my shoulders and I can finally proceed with getting the turbo in there (after I get it clocked..)

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Old 09-27-2013, 09:03 PM   #50
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Nice! Got the hard part done.
Keep up the work. I'm itching to get my T25 on the car but the newborn baby girl is taking precedence right now
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Old 10-03-2013, 04:18 PM   #51
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So after 2 hours of expensive labor at the shop, they still could not get the turbo clocked. Since there is some shaft play anyway, I may need to pick up a newer turbo.

This is putting a damper on my plans :(
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Old 10-03-2013, 07:51 PM   #52
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Here's how I did it: separate the turbo first, using ~1/2" nuts and bolts as tiny bottle jacks. Then install the turbine housing. Then with a level I installed the rebuilt CHRA into the turbine housing so the top was level (aka, so was the drain). Then install the compressor housing loosely, rotating until you're happy.

The CHRA will NOT turn in the turbine housing easily, it's best to take it out, rotate, and reinsert. Go to gopopshop.com and buy a rebuild kit. It's a good experience.
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Old 10-03-2013, 08:36 PM   #53
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Ohhhh, YOU'RE the one that texted me! Hahahah that makes sense. Sorry to hear its not working out so far.
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Old 10-03-2013, 09:04 PM   #54
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Old 10-04-2013, 08:48 AM   #55
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Quote:
Originally Posted by curly View Post
Here's how I did it: separate the turbo first, using ~1/2" nuts and bolts as tiny bottle jacks. Then install the turbine housing. Then with a level I installed the rebuilt CHRA into the turbine housing so the top was level (aka, so was the drain). Then install the compressor housing loosely, rotating until you're happy.

The CHRA will NOT turn in the turbine housing easily, it's best to take it out, rotate, and reinsert. Go to gopopshop.com and buy a rebuild kit. It's a good experience.
I would rebuild it, but the problem is, that the shop couldn't even get it apart. I guess I could find a place that would do it for a flat rate, but at this point, the turbo is so old, that I don't think I should bother putting any more money into it. It would be cheaper to buy Ds1's turbo :P

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Ohhhh, YOU'RE the one that texted me! Hahahah that makes sense. Sorry to hear its not working out so far.
Haha yup that's me. I just texted you back.
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Old 10-11-2013, 10:21 AM   #56
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Back at it, finally. Freshly rebuilt turbo from JDS Performance is in the mail.

Did the fuel pump last night


Out with the old, in with the new! And by new, I mean my roommate's fuel pump from his STi!


Started sanding my valve cover for a fresh coat of color-matched Montego


Got the CAS back in


I will hopefully have an update with a purdy, clockable turbo soon!
Attached Thumbnails
97 Montego sr20 t25 Turbo Build-20131010_194805_zpse18cb67d.jpg   97 Montego sr20 t25 Turbo Build-20131010_201251_zpsd8b54dea.jpg   97 Montego sr20 t25 Turbo Build-2013-10-10225720_zpscd159bff.png   97 Montego sr20 t25 Turbo Build-20131010_210355_zps95957282.jpg  
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Old 10-11-2013, 10:39 AM   #57
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I HIGHLY recommend you rebuild that turbo after clocking. I know mine was super seized together, i had to apply heat, a BFH, and lots of PB blaster to finally get it clocked. Now the turbo makes a funny noise and I think it may be consuming oil. In the future I'd rebuild it for sure if it's stuck and wont clock easily.
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Old 10-11-2013, 10:42 AM   #58
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Originally Posted by Fireindc View Post
I HIGHLY recommend you rebuild that turbo after clocking. I know mine was super seized together, i had to apply heat, a BFH, and lots of PB blaster to finally get it clocked. Now the turbo makes a funny noise and I think it may be consuming oil. In the future I'd rebuild it for sure if it's stuck and wont clock easily.
Sorry - I wasn't too clear. I'm trashing the turbo that I couldn't get clocked. Ordered a newly rebuilt turbo from JDS Performance.
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Old 10-29-2013, 09:11 AM   #59
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Last week I was travelling to Ireland for work, so no progress was made. However, my turbo came in! I'll have pictures later tonight.

Last night I took care of some smaller things, like getting the shifter back together with the new boots, putting some interior back together, and painted my valve cover. I think it's going to come out pretty nice. I'm going to clear coat it tonight.
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Old 11-01-2013, 11:24 AM   #60
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Here's the new turbo, mid clocking process. All 4 of the turbine housing bolts loosened super easy. When I tried to clock it, the compressor housing was spinning (with difficulty, as the snap ring is still in., as opposed to the exhaust housing, like I wanted. Any suggestions?





Color matched valve cover





EGR removed and blocked off, new heater core hose on, and oil feed line set up. Forgot pics of the EGR.



Back on the ground. Open wheel class!

Attached Thumbnails
97 Montego sr20 t25 Turbo Build-20131031_234502_zpsb9470a97.jpg   97 Montego sr20 t25 Turbo Build-20131031_234520_zps5a2372fd.jpg   97 Montego sr20 t25 Turbo Build-20131029_183733_zps0da4273d.jpg   97 Montego sr20 t25 Turbo Build-20131031_234355_zps4649e4d5.jpg   97 Montego sr20 t25 Turbo Build-20131031_234626_zpse0c7280c.jpg  

97 Montego sr20 t25 Turbo Build-20131031_234656_zps47e838cc.jpg  
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