<p>Please tell me why in the world you would buy a used caliper that may or may not need a rebuild vs. a brand new caliper for $100 apiece.</p><p>&nbsp;</p><p>I'm seeing the economy of the kit now, but holy crap, just buy the new Dynalites.</p>

 

There are these adapters, then we could use npt/npt lines. I don't like adapters like this, I broke one off in the oil feed in my block, the way they have to neck down for the crush washer makes them weak.



Do they make those kelvar lines in NPT?

When the time comes it's as easy for me to make two brackets and centering rings as it is a few hundred, if anyone else is interested.

 

I don't want adapters when a straight line exists.
<br />
<br />Because I want dynapros and wilwood rebuild kits are like $10 or something.

 

Funny was just going to post this.

New Blue Straight Pipe Adapter AN4 to 1 8" NPT Oil Fuel Tube Pipe Thread | eBay

2 4AN to M10 x1 0 Aluminum Fitting Turbo Oil Feed Blow Off Wastegate Blue | eBay

But I tend to agree with you about stacking up all these conversion fittings. Especially the one that will be sticking out of the caliper and supporting the line and taking all the flex when turning. Those /\ are aluminium, but they can be had in steel for more dollars. Im not finding the npt to npt lines, or I was remembering wrong, Its been a while I was looking at these for my truck 2-3 years ago.

 

<p>A question about dynapros. I've seen people say pad swaps are easier on the dynapros. How is that possible? On the dynalites, you pull out a cotter pin and pull the pads out the top. Takes like.... no time.</p>

 

<br />
<br /><br />
<br />Going to have a machine do it?

 

The only issue is that the castings are a wearable item. But we are just some track rats, not #RACECARDRIVER.

 

CNC bro

 

How much of a wear item?

 

For our purposes, not enough for me to be concerned about really.
But,
Why is it you can get takeoffs from circle track guys?


last paragraph
https://www.miataturbo.net/general-m...7/#post1177686

 

Doing some reading and Wildwood said the only wear item is the seal.

 

lol. I thought you were impervious to marketing?

 

Circle track guys replace their oil coolers every weekend. Maybe they crash? Idk he didn't call me back yet.

 

Deezums. You have a powder coating setup right? I might get my calipers shipped to you for powder coating

 

Like I said, im not overly concerned. But what it boils down to is that its a C shaped thing that gets spread open every time you brake. How can it not be a wear item?

My Kx calipers are toast BTW from this exact failure mode, after 10 years of absolute torture.

 

I disagree completely with the stainless piston/aluminum bore expanding at different rates. That would certenly be the case if they were the same thickness, but I doubt that is so.

The dynapro comes with stainless pistons, C5 calipers love stainless pistons, I think the dynalite even has stainless pistons IIRC...

Everything else I agree with, they'll taper much less than stock calipers. There's no dust boots like factory calipers, you'll want to check on them and replace as necessary.

random quick read.
Beware Wilwood calipers! - Honda-Tech

I do have a powder coating setup, I just need to move my oven and plug it in.

Also, I believe we can interchange dynalites and dynapros especially with a 11" rotor.

 

I think he is basing it in theory and is a very case specific scenario. SS and Al also conduct/radiate/whatever heat in completely different ways as far metals are concerned.

Another thing Im not too concerned with.

 

Sean is probably fine. I'll probably rebuild mine at the beginning of each track season or 2. $20 for peace of mind is a no brained.

 

I used these from Summit, part # wil-220-11751
The 949 lines are the cheapest and you will not find a better or cheaper deal.

I made mine out of 6061. Not worth paying for anything more expensive and heat treatments can be impacted by heat cycles from caliper heat.

I checked the spacing around my 11" rotors. The 15x7's wheels have right at 0.2" clearance radially. Just too tight for 11.5 rotors. The hump on the inside of the rim is just too close to the mounting plane. It could clear if I ran a 1/2 or 3/4 wheel spacer. I really wish I got 15x8's now.

The 15x9's had plenty of room. I could slide a 0.400" drill bit between the caliper and rim. More than enough room for 11.5". I could even fit 11.75" rotors. You badtard are making me want to make a set for the 11.5 rotors now. I can just swap caliper brackets when I go to track. I was planning on running separate rotors in any case.

I would guess you could fit 11.5 rotors under 15x8's, but would have to check with the different backspaceing. Hopefully it moves the hump on the inside of the wheel further away from the caliper.

I took some pics, but need to get them re sized to post on here.

 

I'll just cross my fingers with fitting in the 15x8s. I can always go down to an 11" if it becomes an issue.