Rotor coning when hot?

 

Wait for pictures guys. The caliper isn't centered on the rotor, and I should have noticed it. I think it comes with the territory of running rotors that are "technically" too thick.

Good thing is. Steel vs Aluminum, steel wins. Bad thing is. Now nobody will want to buy these when I want to get the red ones.

 

Suggestion: Good.

Implementation: BAD.

 

The only thing I cut was the headline to the clutch master.
Everything else should be 100% intact.
The only things I haven't gotten yet are the front spindles.
I'll get them Friday morning.

 

I don't need front spindles. I just need the sensors.

But you can probably sell those spindles for $$$

 

Will probably just clean up and use control arms and all on my car.

 

Spindles have the sensor mounts in them, do they not? I believe they are required. I still have one of the spindles of Ed's MSM and thats where the sensor mounts. That's specifically why I wanted the spindles.

 

Yes but I have an NA. So I need NA spindles. This is an NB parts car.

Use NB subframes. Better bumpsteer characteristicks or some ****.

 

You sure they don't interchange? I was under the impression that they did but you are probably more up on the NA/NB interchange stuff than I am

 

They do interchange. At the "cost" of 5mm more track width. I already have NA rear spindles. and 1 NA front spindle. So the extra 5mm of track on one wheel would get screwy.

 

IIRC NA/NB upper ball joints are different. You need NB front upper control arms to run NB spindles.

 

Thank you. Either way don't currr. As I already have 3 out of the 4 necessary spindles.

 

Do you have any air ducted to the front brakes?

 

So... You need both spindles?

 

I need no spindles

 

for front spindles the upright has to match the upper A arm gen. For rear spindles everything goes together but NB makes for a 5mm wider track (or is it 5mm per side?). Also, NBs have different bump steer geometry.

 

Electricians. or internet electricians. how does my 10-50 to 6-50 conversion cord look? will it kill me? or more importantly my welder? or will it work

 

Got impatient. It worked



Now new question. Can I run this air compressor motor off this outlet? And when you say now, how much of a no? burn the house down? Or just pop the breaker a few times.

 

probably not to code, but if that cable is good enough for my dryer it's good enough to weld with.

I did the same thing, handy tool for finding weld power near any dryer.

I believe the other outlet is a 15/20A 220, I would not try to run the compressor on that but it shouldn't burn a house down, if it's to code. You won't be running it on it if it's too small, it will pop every time it tries to start. I'd check the wire gauge behind the plate if you are super worried.

 

Its 12 gauge. I'll give it a shot. If not I'll upgrade the wiring.