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Aidan's loose oily bunghole actually runs a track lap

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Old Oct 29, 2014 | 10:32 AM
  #81  
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Got a couple more things done yesterday:

Stacked up my coolant reroute spacer:



Got my broken bolt removed:



Got my mixing manifold welded and tapped for a 1/8 NPT fitting





And got the turbo machined down to fit a T3 flange. I'm a little worried it is too thin now, but nothing I can do about it now, hopefully it doesn't crack:



Attached Thumbnails Aidan's loose oily bunghole actually runs a track lap-334ke8g.jpg   Aidan's loose oily bunghole actually runs a track lap-xmpc2g.jpg   Aidan's loose oily bunghole actually runs a track lap-23vxljs.jpg   Aidan's loose oily bunghole actually runs a track lap-2ykmc1f.jpg   Aidan's loose oily bunghole actually runs a track lap-j665p1.jpg  

Aidan's loose oily bunghole actually runs a track lap-2nrzgx5.jpg  
Old Oct 29, 2014 | 07:16 PM
  #82  
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Looking good. Nice machine work, coolant spacer looks good.
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Old Nov 1, 2014 | 03:27 PM
  #83  
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Originally Posted by rwyatt365
My car is from Detroit, where they pave the roads with rock salt. After 13 years of exposure to that crap, the metal part of the bushing had "become one" with the diff so I had to heat / pound / lubricate (sounds like a **** script) for about 2 hours before the damned thing would even budge.
It literally takes seconds to pop out diff bushings using an air hammer... use a chisel bit against the edge of the metal sleeve. Push the sleeve towards the center of the bushing to break the adhesion to the aluminum diff, then downwards to pop the entire OEM bushing/sleeve out in one piece. No fire, no burns, no waiting hours.

Extreme cases of exposure to road salt may be more of a challenge, even with an air hammer, but the air hammer will make the job much easier in any case.
Old Nov 1, 2014 | 07:32 PM
  #84  
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Build looks solid. That spacer came out legit
Old Nov 2, 2014 | 08:37 PM
  #85  
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Got some more parts in the mail.



Tried to buy 4 bolts, ended up with 400. Oops.



Flanges and Weld-els



My idea for my manifold, hopefully it works out. I'll be using a buddies TIG in december to put it all together.
Attached Thumbnails Aidan's loose oily bunghole actually runs a track lap-10hn6o6.jpg   Aidan's loose oily bunghole actually runs a track lap-x1f0na.jpg   Aidan's loose oily bunghole actually runs a track lap-2i8brjs.jpg  
Old Nov 4, 2014 | 03:28 PM
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Got my new thermostat in the mail and put together the rear end of the coolant reroute:







Also here's a picture of the mixing manifold and my hose routing from the throttle body. That will eventually be the turbo feed then return.



Got the crank pulley on:

Attached Thumbnails Aidan's loose oily bunghole actually runs a track lap-2s0zlnt.jpg   Aidan's loose oily bunghole actually runs a track lap-2jbtqv8.jpg   Aidan's loose oily bunghole actually runs a track lap-25z40oz.jpg   Aidan's loose oily bunghole actually runs a track lap-1603n8x.jpg   Aidan's loose oily bunghole actually runs a track lap-zklsba.jpg  

Old Nov 5, 2014 | 02:09 PM
  #87  
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is your gm iat sensor just poked through the intake hose or is something else holding it?
Old Nov 5, 2014 | 02:10 PM
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Drilled a hole and screwed it in.
Old Nov 5, 2014 | 02:13 PM
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That's what I was thinking. I was looking for a location to do the same and that hose is pretty thick so it's perfect
Old Nov 14, 2014 | 01:07 PM
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Small Update:

CX Racing radiator came in:





Seems well built, others have had good experience with it.

Also found a good source for T-bolt clamps. Fastenal has some well built ones for about 2.50$ a piece. I got enough for my coolant reroute.

Also picked up some threaded rod to mount my engine to the engine stand, I should be doing the swap next weekend.

Picking up a harness bar and springs from curly and oregonmon this weekend. Hopefully borrowing curly's load leveler too. Also possibly looking at a shell + hardtop.

Found some fenders in Washington that are red and in decent condition, having a friend pick them up for me if they look good enough.
Attached Thumbnails Aidan's loose oily bunghole actually runs a track lap-15wnck6.jpg   Aidan's loose oily bunghole actually runs a track lap-330h9bt.jpg  
Old Nov 17, 2014 | 10:26 AM
  #91  
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Had a solid shopping weekend.

Found some fenders in a junkyard in Seattle. No dents at all:



Picked up a harness bar from curly and borrowed his load leveler:





And the real treat. I found a pair of 16" Ultra Shield Rally Sport seats on craigslist for 125 each.







Attached Thumbnails Aidan's loose oily bunghole actually runs a track lap-2ivgto7.jpg   Aidan's loose oily bunghole actually runs a track lap-2vw9ouf.jpg   Aidan's loose oily bunghole actually runs a track lap-orjmfs.jpg   Aidan's loose oily bunghole actually runs a track lap-2i7b5p4.jpg   Aidan's loose oily bunghole actually runs a track lap-2j3pbeo.jpg  

Aidan's loose oily bunghole actually runs a track lap-2akbkf8.jpg   Aidan's loose oily bunghole actually runs a track lap-wkquq0.jpg  
Old Nov 18, 2014 | 08:12 AM
  #92  
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Looks like you had to add some spacers under the temp sensor.
Do you have a close-up, or could you elaborate on what you did there?
Are you satisfied with the results, or do you wish you had welded a boss?
Old Nov 18, 2014 | 08:44 AM
  #93  
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I think it'll hit the thermostat without a thick enough boss. It's a long sensor, like an AIT.
Old Nov 18, 2014 | 09:08 AM
  #94  
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Originally Posted by curly
I think it'll hit the thermostat without a thick enough boss. It's a long sensor, like an AIT.
This. I'm too cheap to weld in a boss so I'm going to just put rtv between the washers. If it leaks I'll pull it and weld in a boss.
Old Nov 18, 2014 | 10:16 AM
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Also because of the design of the Jackson racing spacer it has a flat spot on one edge. The coolant temp sensor seals not with threads but with the aluminum washer. Because of the flat spot I could drill and tap without needing a boss. I haven't finalized the spacers. Those are just fender washers for mockup.
Old Nov 20, 2014 | 03:31 PM
  #96  
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Got around to tapping the pan yesterday. Planning on doing the swap this weekend, so any pointers or advice are appreciated.

Now picture time:

Pilot hole



Taped up



**** takes forever



JB welded



Attached Thumbnails Aidan's loose oily bunghole actually runs a track lap-t0ovf9.jpg   Aidan's loose oily bunghole actually runs a track lap-dlozr7.jpg   Aidan's loose oily bunghole actually runs a track lap-33a8hnl.jpg   Aidan's loose oily bunghole actually runs a track lap-so4miq.jpg   Aidan's loose oily bunghole actually runs a track lap-x4opsl.jpg  

Old Nov 20, 2014 | 03:58 PM
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You're not going to take a hose to this thing? Soap and water would go a long way, followed by a little tape and paint.

Under body stuff is the most annoying, start there. Engine mount nuts, ppf, cat, reverse and neutral switch, speedo, and drain tranny. Driveshaft will fall out as you pull the engine, but unbolt it to put it back in. Much easier than aligning as you install.
Old Nov 20, 2014 | 04:02 PM
  #98  
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I just got the hose out. And have some engine enamel to freshen it up.
Old Nov 21, 2014 | 05:38 AM
  #99  
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Since you have the engine out, a weld on fitting for the sump would save a lot of headaches/leaks down the track...
Old Nov 21, 2014 | 10:59 AM
  #100  
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Originally Posted by timk
Since you have the engine out, a weld on fitting for the sump would save a lot of headaches/leaks down the track...
I contemplated cleaning the oil pan and getting a bung. But this engine was cheap and I don't plan on spending much on it. Its still a 1.6.


On another note got to cleaning and painting yesterday (should make curly happier)

Toothbrush for the tight spots:



Looking better:





Painting time:



Attached Thumbnails Aidan's loose oily bunghole actually runs a track lap-alriis.jpg   Aidan's loose oily bunghole actually runs a track lap-drfiag.jpg   Aidan's loose oily bunghole actually runs a track lap-2ms3ugw.jpg   Aidan's loose oily bunghole actually runs a track lap-6fbae0.jpg   Aidan's loose oily bunghole actually runs a track lap-j7ugrn.jpg  




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