Fixed I really was happy with the color when I was laying it. It should match everything nicely. Last night I got 3/4 of the way done with the brake lines. Clutch line is done:

 

Prepped and painted the block, put together the head, and dialed in the intake cam. Hopefully I'll finish the brake lines tomorrow along with chase the main and head stud holes. Booty:





Intake ports:




Exhaust port

 

Looks great man

 

Looks awesome man. I have a question do you think it is really worth the time to tuck the brake lines or is it one of those personal preference things? Also does the seam welding need to be all the way across the seam or is the stitching like you have more than adequate? I need to do this to my car but I was under the impression that I had to do the whole seam.

 

Careful with those cam gears. I had the same one on my exhaust cam and the **** slipped on me.

 

Probably not worth it with superblue fluid (boiling point of 536*) but I have always disliked the lines going above the engine and it will keep my proportioning valve and wilwood proportioning valve out of the way. From what I have read the stitch welding is adequate for a dual purpose car because it allows for some flex and gives a large increase in rigidity.


I have read that people have encountered that problem. Do you remember how much your tq'd the nuts? I know the gears state to tq them to 40-45 in. lbs.

 

Mine three! FM/fidanza gear

 

45

 

Time to search for a remedy :( Thanks for the info!

 

99% done with the brake lines; 3 flares, connect the unions, and take it all apart. Found out my machinist didn't give me my circlips for the pistons back so until I get those I am kind of on pause.

Firewall


Cowl


About where I think the engine will be and how it will work out

 

I thought you were supposed to remove the factory proportioning valve when you replace it with an adjustable one?

 

Yes you are correct. I want to get it all put together and make sure it all works before I go introducing another adjustable thing. This way I don't have to worry about my brakes acting funny when I am focusing on getting the car running properly.

 

It's a cheap union if you gut it, those metric unions can be hard to find. Not sure if that's what he did though.

 

Gut what union? Only thing I did today is figure out what I need to pick up tomorrow, order some circlips, and another photoshop of the car...I've been thinking really hard about running with no fog holes like so:

 

If you're running an adjustable proportioning valve like Sean thinks you are, then the stock proportioning valve can be gutted to run straight through, or as a union between the two pairs of lines that go into the stock valve. The line for the rear brakes does in fact already go straight through the stock proportioning valve.

I realize in your case however, that you could have just ran a longer line, as you're re-doing all the brake lines.

 

likes like a really cool build, where in CT are you located?

 

Thanks! I am in the NE corner, near willimantic.

 

And we have rotating assembly! Finished torquing it at 12:30 this morning. Specs:
Ring gaps (top down avg): .012mm .019 .020 .020
Main bearings and rod bearings: .002" with 2 rod bearings that are a cunthair over
Mains tq'd to 60ft lbs rod bolts tq'd to 45 ft lbs all with arp assembly lube

Only thing I am worried about is the rod to crankshaft clearance, I couldn't even get a .010mm feeler gauge in there but there is no binding. Not sure if I should pull them and have them machined, especially seeing how it is all balanced. PICS?

Inside mic doin work!


Bottom end


For some reason # one slug was printed upside down with the bump facing forward


Going to be attaching everything else and installing new seals in the gearbox tonight/tomorrow and hopefully slipping it in sunday.

 

Timed and ready to go in. Going to using the t04b for now :( I really hate it when schedules slip like mine did.

 

Nnnnnnnnniiiiiiiiiiiiiiicccccccccccccceeeeeeeeeeee ee!!!!!!