build thread (TII drivetrain swap, built motor, cage, widebody, blah blah)
#561
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Nice numbers!! Your plot doesn't lie, the extra revs are just a waste of time and will do nothing but slow you down, create heat, and probably unwanted stress.
I can't remember if you are a 1.6 or 1.8, but stroke is 83.6 and 85mm respectively. Rod length for both engines is 132.9mm. In comparison the f20c has a bore of 84mm and rod length of 153mm. So why does the f20 rev so eagerly while the B engine falls on its face? IMO the head, the B is a very old design while the f20 is a much newer platform, aided by the time honda spent in both F1, IRL, and motorcycles.
The little b engine is hamstrung with poor flow characteristics, which will always be the limiting factor in high redline number...sure you might be able to twist it up there, but you are not gaining anything performance wise. Proof is in your plot.
Who cares about max redline anyway? All that matters is your car rocks hard when you push on the fun pedal!!
AWESOME JOB!!
I can't remember if you are a 1.6 or 1.8, but stroke is 83.6 and 85mm respectively. Rod length for both engines is 132.9mm. In comparison the f20c has a bore of 84mm and rod length of 153mm. So why does the f20 rev so eagerly while the B engine falls on its face? IMO the head, the B is a very old design while the f20 is a much newer platform, aided by the time honda spent in both F1, IRL, and motorcycles.
The little b engine is hamstrung with poor flow characteristics, which will always be the limiting factor in high redline number...sure you might be able to twist it up there, but you are not gaining anything performance wise. Proof is in your plot.
Who cares about max redline anyway? All that matters is your car rocks hard when you push on the fun pedal!!
AWESOME JOB!!
#569
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Thanks man!
Some other slight notes about the car, I finally put on all the JDM badges, as can be seen in the previous pics. I also sourced 24 of the "short" acorn bolts (there were 2 on the front of the valve cover on 90-93 cars), and replaced every bolt I could in the engine bay with them. I've slowly been replacing the nuts with acorn ones (shock towers, master cyl, clutch master cyl, etc). Small detail, but one I'm proud of.
#570
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A nice intake manifold would do wonders for you. Let you rev as high as you want with no face falling action.
EDIT: Even with a stock intake manifold your torque shouldn't be falling so fast. Hmm..either way, 300whp is damn good. I bet it comes on hard as hell, too.
EDIT: Even with a stock intake manifold your torque shouldn't be falling so fast. Hmm..either way, 300whp is damn good. I bet it comes on hard as hell, too.
Another question for all you smart guys, would messing with the cam gears be worth it? We didn't mess with them on the dyno.
Also, how do I even post the timing map?
#571
Cam gears for cam timing? YES. Try to find a post where cam gears were not beneficial for tuning normally aspirated cams for boost. And especially at your boost. Cheap power IMO.
Try a screen dump for your timing map.
Do you have larger versions/images of your car online? I wanted to see some detail in your engine bay.
Try a screen dump for your timing map.
Do you have larger versions/images of your car online? I wanted to see some detail in your engine bay.
#572
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Cam gears for cam timing? YES. Try to find a post where cam gears were not beneficial for tuning normally aspirated cams for boost. And especially at your boost. Cheap power IMO.
Try a screen dump for your timing map.
Do you have larger versions/images of your car online? I wanted to see some detail in your engine bay.
Try a screen dump for your timing map.
Do you have larger versions/images of your car online? I wanted to see some detail in your engine bay.
#577
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I never posted a pic of this, but I converted all the interior lights to LEDs. I did the entire cluster, including all the indicator lights, blinkers, high beams, etc, as well as the HVAC and footwell lights.
blinkers on
blinkers off
HVAC cluster
blinkers on
blinkers off
HVAC cluster