+1 Did a great job on my VVT swapped NA.

 

He's going to talk ridiculous amounts of **** about the MS, be warned.

 

Sounds like a another solid UMS recommendation, works for me.👍🏾

 

it works for what I need it too haha, I’m sure AEM and such may be better but everyone’s entitled to opinions

 

Raised the rear a bit, feels better currently driving and hitting bumps

Got my radio installed finally with a surround so it looks complete after years of having this car.




Didn’t start the Fab9Tuning COP install, decided to use Toyota COPS instead and will just make my own harness instead.

I had a spare igniter and pinned everything to the connector itself as the instructions said and will get things connected in the future once they show up.

I did have a weird issue though, went to start the car and it wouldn’t start previously

When connecting laptop to MS and looked in debug logs it showed “conflict with idle-up input pin”

It did this for a while, and it was set already to On using Flex... so not sure why that was happening but it prevented me from starting the car

I tested the port a few times and it seemed to reconnect but if anyone knows more shed some light, have a feeling it may come back.

Excited for to get a proper tune going! Going to make more room in front flares this weekend and get an alignment hopefully soon and that’s that for now!

 

Got an alignment finally, I’ll have to take a pic of the specs later and upload but it’s like -1.5 camber up front, and -3 in the rear being as close to 0 toe as possible



As always with lowered cars it’s fun getting up there

Also flushed my radiator cause it’s been sitting for years and it was doo doo brown, all seems well right now.




Going to start working on the Toyota COPs maybe this weekend

Got the plugs
Resister
Capacitor
Wires

Just waiting on my connectors to show up and I can get started.

 

Was that all the camber they could get in front? You're going to want a lot more than -1.5deg....

 

I was trying to get a base I guess.

I think he was struggling finding point to stop and keep toe in line around 0

recommendations?

 

Supermiata Alignment

 

I’ll read up on it.

Just doing a quick scan through for numbers, more front camber, less rear.

 

Yes, for the NA/NB chassis, you generally want more front camber than rear.

 

Makes sense, looks like it’s for more oversteer which I’d rather have than understeer

Its a buddy of mine doing it so I can head back and get it changed up a bit

little less rear, more up front.

Appreciate it

 

Working in the car a bit... ive been driving a lot cause I took the speed3 out of commission for a week or so.... (ball joint/arm) replacement and waiting on parts for it



Just finally got it back up today!



Regardless just been enjoying it but this heat is killing me! Regardless been driving well with honestly no complaints, put the front flares on as well... when I get the alignment re-adjusted I’ll adjust the caster as well cause it’s a bit too far back but trimmed flare to fit





It looks ****** great to me honestly!

Also went out of town for a bit, rented a RZR 1000XP... and now I want one!



(Majestic)

Anyways, finally got my order of electronics in so I could start on the C.O.P.’s and got pretty far just need to finish the adapter piece so it’s plug and play then I’ll test it

Side note, set official tune date for the 16th of June at UMSTuning.... few things to do then we’ll be good to go!

 

Forgot the C.O.P’s image

 

Finally found the time to get my COPs installed. Pretty straight forward, but the first harness I made just wasn’t the right gauge wire.

So I did it again and all is well.

Finish the plug and play for 1.6 since I had a spare igniter

Now that they work I can finish up the look of the harness





I’ll just be doing a once over again for everything before the tune day and bring some extra parts and we should be ready!

 

Got my first ever professional tune completed.



Things I learned:

-Time is money
-Make sure you’re absolutely ready to go before you’re there
-Have EBC setup before hand

So background:

Mods:
-Wiseco Forged Rods: 78.5mm/8.5.1
-Manley Forged H-Beam rods
-Supertech Valve Spring Kit: dual springs 49lbs
-New Stock Oil Pump
-Supermiata 6 puck clutch: rated for 340ft/lbs of torque
-460cc Rx7 injectors
-3.9 ratio torsen diff
-Stock 5 speed transmission
-GT82 Turbo, w water lines
-External gated, with Tial 38mm
-Turbosmart Raceport BOV
-Running 10lbs off wastegate pressure

Dyno info:
212hp, 175 tq




Since this is my first time doing this ****, I felt it went well, learned some things, and KNOW there’s more power.

Problems:
MAP sensor was reading about 40-50kpa higher than normal throughout, so I had them tune around it for now until I get a replacement and go back.

Wants:
-New 3 bar MAP sensor
-Flex fuel sensor
-Deatschwerks DW300c FP
-EBC (hooked up and running)
-Another dyno day

Positives:
-Nothing blew up
-No leaks
-Drove it there and drove it home
-Drives a billion times better
-Feel ready time actually get it on the track and find more problems!

Only took 7 years, that’s all!

OH old news, I had an oil feed come loose during dyno prep literally 2 days before.

It caught flames, always ALWAYS have a fire extinguisher, literally saved my ***.

Turbo blanket was soaked, it was quite a site to see with all the smoke behind me but I cut it off and saved the motor too.

Washed all the oil off and tightened the fitting and drove home that night with no issues.

Never a dull moment haha

 

Map sensor may have been incorrectly selected from list in basic menu, unless it was working correctly and suddenly changed. It should read just under 100kpa with engine off and key on.

 

yeah not sure, they looked at it and suggested I get a new one overall, so not certain as to when it went bad but it explains why my overboost calculations were not ever correct.

ill get my settings later today to see what it’s set to.

 

These are the settings I currently have for it.

 

That's not the right spot.

Are you seeing just under 100kpa with the key on and engine off?