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Rear end is together. Tubular rear subframe, X-Lite upper control arms, Pro series lower control arms, V8R Ohlins TTX, 11.75" Pro series brakes
These are V8R's new 2-piece 10.75" rotors, right? Excuse my noobishness, but aside from being lighter, why are these better than the factory sport rears? Isn't the factory sport rear 10.9" better than 10.75" as far as braking torque/ leverage is concerned? Do they calipers use a different bracket to mount to the 10.75" than they do to mount on the factory sport 10.9"?
We made it to Gridlife South @ Road Atlanta. We were using this event for a test and tune for NASA Nationals at Watkins Glenn later this month. I've never been a fan of drifting but the few cars that had a high entry speed into 10a/10b and down the hill through 12 onto the front straight were impressive.
We had a mechanical failure on Friday that cut our weekend short but not before we were able to collect some data and laptimes that showed we should be competitive with the top cars in the class.
Thanks to JohnnyC and Andrea for the hospitality, we had fun
Setting ride height, caster, camber, and toe
The support for the new front end
Tubular rear subframe in and ready to go
V8R Ohlins TTX, X-Lite, 11.75" Pro series,
Lightweight hardtop and trunk lid from our friends at CCP Fabrication, APR GTC200
Yep, our suspicions were confirmed, excessive crankcase ventilation
We'll pull the motor this week and see if we can diagnose the cause. Trying to decide what motor to put in now. With data we saw I'm pretty sure it will be dry sumped.
NASA Nationals will be at our home track in 17', so we'll be ready
Any fastback updates in the pipeline? Keen to see it mounted.
lol, me too. I know CCP has been working on them feverishly but I haven't seen any pictures and it would be way down on our list as of right now.
I'll see if he has any pics available and if so I'll post them
Do you have a definitive measurement as to how much taller? We have room.
I'm most concerned with the rotating assembly clearing the dry sump pan we have
Deck height is 14mm higher , it's even higher if you use the 2.5 valve cover but the 2.0 one fits.
The dry sump pan I bought from massive clears the bottom end . It's the lowest profile one you can get besides the black one with integrated pump that costs like 5k pounds.
Am I right in thinking the 2.3 is the same height as the 2.5 and just uses a smaller bore? I was/am really interested in the idea of a 2.5 swap on my car. I'm at 1920lbs right now with room to remove more but finding weight off of the front end isn't easy. Googling suggests that the 2.5 duratec is about 50lb lighter than the BP and finding that amount of weight on the front end of my car while picking up 50hp over a VVT engine is appealing. Assuming that 50lb number is close to correct, I think I could have a car still legal on the street with the ability to mount a hard top (keep water proof) at about 1700lb with gas. 1700lb and 200whp sounds like a ton of fun.
Introduced in non-North American markets for the MY2008 and North American markets for MY2009, the 2.5L L5-VE is an updated, bored and stroked version of the L3-VE 2.3L. The 2.5L (2,488 cc (151.8 cu in)) L5 engine has an 89.0 mm (3.50 in) bore and a 100.0 mm (3.94 in) stroke, with a compression ratio of 9.7:1. The standard crankshaft is forged-steel with eight counterweights like the turbocharged DISI 2.3L L3-VDT. To increase durability of the bore, Mazda uses a 4340 steel-molybdenum alloy material for the cylinder liners. This offers enhanced high-heat tolerance as well as reduced friction. The increased stroke of 100 mm (3.9 in), up from 94 mm (3.7 in) of the L3, allows a taller (numerically lower) final-drive ratio resulting in lower-rpm while cruising to increase fuel economy. It also uses iVCT. It produces 170 bhp (130 kW) at its 6000 rpm redline (168 hp (125 kW) in PZEV trim) and 167 lb·ft (226 N·m) of torque at 4000 rpm (166 lb·ft (225 N·m) in PZEV trim). Certain versions are rated at 175 hp (130 kW) at 6000 rpm with 172 lb·ft (233 N·m) of torque at 4500 rpm.
Motor is out and mostly apart. No signs of starvation, and no obvious damage to any other rods. Both bolts were intact but the rod came apart near the shoulders at the base of the beam. Couple of theories but it really doesn't matter at this point
Motor is out and mostly apart. No signs of starvation, and no obvious damage to any other rods. Both bolts were intact but the rod came apart near the shoulders at the base of the beam. Couple of theories but it really doesn't matter at this point
no more drag racing rods.
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Originally Posted by Mobius
Hopefully so, but let's hope it's never necessary. Experiencing your safety gear in action is ... not optimal.
08-21-2016, 06:48 PM
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