I plan on coating the down pipe and the manifold then wrapping it, to help control heat. I wont be using a turbo blanket, but I will be using an extractor hood with louvers to help exhaust the heat created by the turbo.

 

I was wondering why you didn't use your plates like a roll cage. As it is now you've got your tubes sandwiched between the C channel and plates. Mounting to the car would be stronger if the hardware only sandwiched the interior plates - car - base plates (at the tube base). I thought maybe you had a reason (not obvious to me) for using long bolts and including the C channel in assembly/mounting.

 

I think I see where you are going. The tubes are welded to the c channel. The interior plate is 3/16 welded into the chassis, effectively making it part of the chassis. the subframe is then bolted to the floor via the bolt and the nut which is welded to the plate.

Maybe im not getting what you are asking. I suppose I could use a larger pad to contact the floor of the car. But this design has worked so far, everything stays in place and there has been no evidence of fatigue to this point. 6k on the street and roughly 150 track miles.

 

i know this was 3 pages ago, but i just got back up to date on this thread and wanted to say that, wire brush will do nothing because your doing the right thing and getting it coated. (hopefully swain) and i don't know where someone got they're info, but coating absolutely makes a difference on stainless or whatever it's on. our shop car has an SFP with a jet-hot coating on it (not as good as swain) and the difference is incredible!

oh yeah, awesome build! i love the idea of a f20c in a miata when i first saw the swap, and always thought how much better it would be with a reliable low boost turbo kit on it. a 350whp f20c would be stressed as much as a bp at 200whp! which is not at all.

 

Another Update!! IC is finished and in the car. IC is 22 inches wide, with tanks 27 inches, 9" tall, 3.5" deep, inlet 2.5", outlet 2.75". Charge tubes are fairly short, cool side 18.5", hot side 15". Mounting is accomplished by two tabs welded to top of tanks and bolted to the frame and one tab welded to bottom of IC and bolted to the radiator mount. We used flexible couplers for the charge pipe to IC connection, this will allow the engine to move without stressing the connections, IC, or IC mounting points. The housing was clocked counter clockwise slightly and a 90 elbow was welded to the outlet housing. A Tial Q BOV was added, the BOV is 50mm the Q design is stated to flow 60% more, than a standard Tial 50mm BOV.






Here is a pic showing the elbow, I will get a better shot when I pull the engine to do oil return line and the clutch




I will need to build some ducting for the IC and radiator.

Great big magnaflow, yeah the special one. I like quite!

So that is where I am at for now. As much as I want to work on the car I won't be doing anything for at least the next 10 days. I have an infection in my arm and recently had a PICC line placed so I can infuse antibiotics at home. I am on strict orders not to lift more than 10-15 lbs while the PICC line is in place. So im just going to hang out, maybe order some fuel system parts, and admire where the car is. I won't be doing much to move the project forward. Maybe I can sit in the car and make engine noises.

 

where did you get that I/C?

i know how ya feel, i sit in my car alot and imagine im boosting like a MF!

 

Center section was ordered, then the end tanks were fabricated.

 

i think I just wet myself.... SEX!!!

 

Looking forward to seeing that.

 

may i ask where you bought the core from?

 

Core was purchased from Bell Intercoolers

 

awesome, thanks for the info!

i may attempt this so i can get the size, thickness, endtank shape and inlet/outlets the way i want them.

 

Hopefully I will also be part of the Bignaflow club soon Great buy.

 

Here's the latest. Pulled the engine so I can remove the oil pan and weld in the oil return bung. At the same time I will pull the valve cover and weld in a couple of bungs for the catch can. While the engine is out, I will finish welding up the plate on the frame at the relief cut, as well as the mounting points for the steering rack. I will also install the new CC stage 4 clutch while everything is apart. I have to work all weekend, hopefully I can have the engine back in the car Wednesday night.


Ready to pull

On the stand ready for breathers

 

there's a lot of bad-assery going on in this thread.

 

This...

Being a honda guy at heart, this thread has all of the elements of roadster related win.

 

Thanks for all the detailed updates. This is such a great swap, and the power to weight ratio is going to be ridiculous.

 

Thanks for the kudos guys! I try to update whenever anything notable happens. I think pics showing all the steps helps quantify the amount of effort that goes into any build.

I would rather have a few to many posts and pics than not enough.

 

final weigh in would be great as well ... any access to corner scales?

-Zach

 

Yeah I have access to corner scale. My old setup, when I was running NA was 2405lbs, that is with a full tank of fuel, spare tire, hardtop, trailer hitch, 15x7 team dynamic pro race 2 wheels with 205/50/15's, and of course me.