The engine may be cheap bit for the time invested to do this swap i don't consider it a "cheap" swap by any means.

 

now boost it, run 1 million lbs of boost on the dyno and see how much hp you can go up to, until the crank flys in your lap

 

I would only boost it if I rebuilt it first. Shes an old *** motor so theres no point starting with anything less then fresh. Ofcourse I'd also be looking for 400whp and I just dont feel like maintaining that kind of power, diffs and trannies get expensive lol

 

haha true. whats your plains for the car/engine?

 

Not sure ATM, motor feels significantly heavier than the BP so idk if it will make the best track motor. Also the heavy *** rotating parts are counterproductive to high rpms and even with itbs upper rpm range feels choked, prolly needs better cams.

Right now I'm daily driving the car and dealing with other minor issues like axle leaks and suspension riding on bumpstops with the new bilstien sports.

 

Found out tonight that my motor is faster than a swapped jdm b18c eg civic, thank christ! lol wasn't even close actually.

Need to dyno this thing I think.

 

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Maybe 150whp , that's usually what B18c5's put down stock and they are a much better designed motor, probably 150ft/lbs of torque as well, stock its rated at 140/140 so engine wear over its lifetime + my mods probably something close to that still.

I was pulling 3-4 lengths easily on the b18 civic from a 60kph roll by the top of third gear, rev limiter is even set at 6500 so I wasn't reving it hard either. From a dig it was just sad as the civic doesn't have an lsd.

I'd like to try some high comp pistons if I can find a cheap set, and swap the valve springs for single spring units before I try and rev it to where the itbs stop making power.

 

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Nope, just regular ole 87 octane. Haven't touched timing in the car yet.

 

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this thing is so sick. im glade to hear its still kicking, and daily,beating haha
probably not the best engine for tracking, but probably good for drag racing, and so on, maybe even drifting, by that extra weight in the front..
if you ever get a chance, do you think you can do some videos? love to see this thing in action.

ps. should have filmed that race

 

Lol thanks man.

I'll try and get some third person prespective videos, my iPhone doesn't really cut it I know.

It was my friends civic so we could always roll again, but I doubt he wants to lol

 

DC - is this in reference to the option for the 6spd's bracing? I was planning out my new pan and pickup and read that in yank's thread second time around.

 

I wonder how much an FE3 weighs compared to the all alloy 2.0/2.3/2.5 present day Mazda four cylinder engines. Those you might even be able to sit lower and further back than stock when you lay out an install. Some of the type of work involved in fitting in an FE3 or other engine is comparable to what you'd have to do to go more current.

 

It weighs ~40lbs more than the BP fwiw. The FE is relatively cheap. I paid $900 for mine eight years ago and after that prices dropped to $500 and they weren't even selling at that. The kia version can be had for half of that. The FE was Mazda's big block 4 cylinder from the same era as the B6/P. It's essentially a B engine scaled up- everything is just a little bigger. It's definitely not a modern engine by today's standards.

 

This is regarding the bolts that would run through the trans bell housing into the oilpan like the miata originally has. As u can see in those pics I posted in Ben's thread, I overlooked this and have no bolts on the trans to the oilpan now as they didn't quite line up. Nothing serious.

 

Ahhh- ok that escaped me since I've been running the truck bell. I don't know if it would be worse to run those bolts on a sheet metal pan (all I have) or not.

 

So how is this swap going now?

 

Running good, motor could use new rings but still runs great.

Haven't driven it much this year since picking up my s2000.