I know you're having issues currently, but I've read through your entire build thread over the last week or so. Your metal working skills are ******* fantastic.

Your thread at once makes me excited and terrified to put together one of these cars.

 

Thanks man, I appreciate the compliment. It's just another thing I ha e to figure out. it's pretty much winter so at least I'm not missing out on good driving weather.

So now that it's apart, it seems like a good time to use this EFR I have laying around...Too bad I didn't get to dyno this 2560, I bet it was well overy 300 hp @ 23psi.

 

What are your goals for the EFR? Are you going to do the studs this time when you have everything apart? The decision had you contemplating xanax in the past haha.

There are so many brackets etc that you have on that thing that I want so bad. Like the heat shield and the LS coil mount. Really solid work.

 

I sucked at documenting all the changes . it is currently ARP everything . EFR will be kept below 6 speed crushing numbers. A couple runs in the 350 hp range would be fun though . I really just want to drive this thing for a year without constantly fun king with it. I'm close.

 

When you are ready to part with that 2560 at below market prices let me know.

 

You know we sell these?

​​​​​​​2nd....

 

Back off, I already asked to rummage through his parts bin lol.

But I want my fabricator to be happy, not sad :(

 

I see what you did there...

 

I ran more than 350whp through a 6 speed using a stock flywheel. Might be worth considering if you really want to keep it alive, and flirt with 350whp or more.

 

I have been running a stock flywheel and an FM2 from the beginning . I sold the light one right before the engine went in. I got paranoid after reading about trans destruction .

 

Wait, what is the association between a lighter flywheel and dead trans?

 

The theory is that with power neer or above 300hp, the power pulse from each piston is violent enough to cause premature transmission failure. The heavy flywheel helps to damper or lower the spike of power at each pulse.

Just a theory , but I believe it.

 

The part in bold is a measurable observable fact regarding the physics of how the increase in mass dampens the torque pulses.

 

Yeah I can see that. More mass means more inertia and a increased time to apply the moment arm.

By slowing the transfer a little, the instantaneous torque will decrease by a bit.

 

removing the VVT cam, why wont the front cam bearing cap come off? is there a hidden fastener behind the gear that I cant see, or is the cap just super-sealed to the cam seal?

 

Its a hidden fastener.

I'll take a pic in a second.

Nvm, no hidden faster. But when I took mine off I just pulled it out with the cam. It holds onto the cam real good for some reason.

You need to take the cam gear off anyways.

 

pull the vvt pulley and then remove

 

Careful with the torx screws. Wayyy too easy to strip.

Need to find replacements.

 

1. Thanks for the help, I knew it must have had something holding it on.
2. Thanks previous owner, for stripping the head on one of the torx screws for me already.
3. Glad I stopped hitting it with the hammer.

 

I buy new screws from Mazda, I think I have about a dozen spares on hand. I do not reuse them at all, brand new ones go in everytime I have to install that cover plate. They are the weakest and stupidest pieces on the vvt motor.