What do I win?

 

wont stay idle.msl

Why wont my closed loop settings give any affect to my idle. none.

Only the idle valve, and that hardly does anything. Idle test says I need 33 and 43, idles awesome in test. Close idle test, go to closed loop settings....idles 250 rpm higher than the test, but only for 20 seconds, then it dies. I could enter an infinite amount of numbers into any of the closed loop settings. no change whatsoever. yes, it is on closed loop. Yes it idles in open loop pretty well.

1. Throttle stop plate is closed + 1/8th of a turn
2. Air screw is open 3/4 of a turn
3. Idle valve test says low likes 33 (850rpm) and hi likes 43 (1450rpm)
4. Open loop idle steady at 14.7 and 1000 rpm
5. crank sensor is super close .010

Enter Closed loop idle

1. Idles at 1100 rpm.
2. Idle valve does not affect rpm
3. PID gains have zero effect
4. While steady idle at 1100, engine dies abruptly in about five or ten seconds.

 

CurrentTune.msq

Add this too. What the hell

 

I hate pid closed loop idle, I use the simple mode. If you are idling high then stall I assume the PID is too agressive and dumps all the idle DC instead of tapering it smoothly.

And after looking at the logs, that's what's happening.

 

Well I think I may have roached this engine in less than 100 miles. For whatever reason, auto tune decided to let the afr go to high 13's at 14 psi. Durring an uphill. This was after solid 12 afr for the previous couple runs. Fingers crossed on this one...

No, I did not have the afr safety set. I totally forgot to set it.

No sparkles on the plugs.

No obvious detonation to the piston crown, but I've seen recently, damage to the ring lands first.

Dipstick was pushed out, and blowing coolant from the overflow.

**** compression IMO (140 ) across the board. This is a 8.6:1 build, so not sure what it should be.

More to come of this. I'm sure.

 

I'd say you're fine with 140 on all. Test with wet too

How long was the run with higher AFR? Do you has log?

 

That sucks. I don't use autotune for this reason, it just does not work correctly sometime. I've had it do the SAME thing on my car, AFRs above target, and Autotune pulling fuel despite the fact it should be adding fuel.

Blown dipstick for me has always been a cracked piston. Blowing out coolant has been a headgasket failure for me.

I'd say your best case scenario is a blown head gasket only- pressurizing both the cooling system and crankcase causing both symptoms at the same time from a single (and cheaply fixable) failure. Mixed water in oil/ oil in water would confirm. Oil on one of the plugs/pistons would suggest a cracked piston.

I'd do a leakdown test next.

 

It was probably two or three seconds, that I noticed.

I think I have a log. It was a big one, so I'll cut and snip, to show.

Went back out with afr safety on. Hit all the time, so **** was definitely bad. Came back home, dipstick still in. No oil spray, so that's a positive.

I might have gotten REALLY lucky this time.

I already know that I'm a paranoid wierdo. This just adds to it.

 

If I go 100% throttle, the engine goes into what feels like a fuel or spark cut, right at about 8 psi. if I stay at anything below 98% it drives fine and makes full boost (10.9). What could be causing this?

I see that the Accell enrich is going nuts. at what RPM should It be disabled?

 

No has help?

 

It has been 3 hours on a payday Friday afternoon. We are all busy cashing our pay checks and getting singles to hit up the strip clubs.

 

Sorry, I'm antsy. Trying to run the local autocross tomorrow a.m.

It runs great....except for not being able to use power level 100.

 

email me the tune and log and I'll take a look at it.

 

Major props for Pat! Found my problem in one minute, proving again my tuning deficiencies.

Launch control was f ing with me. Turned it off and all is well.

Thanks man!

 

Quick update:
ive only driven the car a total of 25 miles in 17 months, and most of that was data log short runs. Well..
I got out to the local autocross this weekend. Car ran great. Suspension still needs some final adjustments, and a bigger sway bar. The bigger more powerful brakes stop way better than anything I am use to driving with, so there is that learning curve. 11 psi and I could turn 3rd i could turn the tires into smoke down the long sweeper if I wasn't careful, and this is on legit 15 x9 uls and 225 ventus v2's.
All said and done I eeked out 1st place in our microscopic SSM class (3 entries, all turbo cars), and 15 overall (I think) of 110 entries. We have a hanfull of fast corvettes, s2k's and subarus.

I call it another win for MiataTurbo.NET

 

Need help. was running great for the week. So turn boost up. didn't know, and still don't know why when you take a tune from TS to Megaviewer, It doesnt recognize that I changed the x and Y values. whatever.

more boost , backfire (I think) and now it idles at 2k. no manifold leaks, BOV is closed, map reads what I believe to be correct. any Ideas? in the pic you can see the boost spike, then rpms fall, then idle at 2k.

went back to a tune from days ago, when it ran great, still idles at 2k.

 

If I'm reading that right, your AFRs are in the 8's at full boost? If so, yeah it's gonna misfire running that rich.

Post or email datalog and tune of it idling high and I'll take a look.

 

It was the very first run at more than 10 psi, so I had no real idea what to fuel, so I went with what I thought was safe. I don't know what the **** I'm doing. Obviously.

 

FWIW what I do is, say fuel is good at 8 PSI it's tuned and works great. And say the next line up in my VE table is say, 11 PSI. I'll copy/paste the 8 PSI row to the 11 PSI row, and add 2 to it. Then turn up boost and see how it runs at 11, and move that entire row up/down as needed till AFRs are right.

I make the steps all the same, so what happens is the change between rows is similar.

 

Makes sense.