<3.

Also, as a side note the blower works at least 2x as good now. Not even kidding. I cleaned so much dust and bugs/rocks out of that thing and with the evap delete it has less backpressure or whatever, flows way better.

 

I suspected as much. I really need to do this on the NB. I have all the parts, I'm just trying to find time to pull the dash.

 

Yeah I'll amazed at how well my HVAC system works now. With recirculate on it is almost too powerful.

 

You dont know blower power until you've installed the condenser delete tube and taped all your duct seams.

 

Sooo....exactly what I did?

 

Hope this works out ok for yah Fire! Fit snug on my spare tombstone, and for once the screw holes line up perfect. Sorry if you need to tweak it to make it work for yours, but it had a nice flush fit on my spare.

I'll mail it out tomorrow.

 

Going to be drilling this out for gauges and installing it over the weekend! I'll have to upload some pics of what Jeff wrote on the back of this thing, it's hilarious!

 

I feel bad utilizing a sticker I received for donating to a good cause but it was just too fitting.

 

Love this car. Got my gauges installed, ran a proper +12v to my wideband using the "add a circut" method which came out really nice and clean.





Thanks Jeff. The car is running pretty damn awesome right now too, loves this cold weather.

 

Alright!! Got your Miata going. In for track vid!

 

No tracks within a few hundred miles of me, but I WILL get some canyon vids of the car in action for you boys.

Keep in mind it's on low "safe" boost of 9-10psi or so, so don't expect something lightning fast.

I'd also like to git some footage of the various issues I have to get your guy's input. I'm wondering if my slow to register oil pressure is due to the long *** turbo line I have tee-d off the oil pressure sender. It's only on cold starts after sitting for a day or two, and it probably takes 5 seconds to register oil pressure on the gauge.. I really doubt the bottom end is running completely dry though, because 5 seconds of no oil pressure on every cold start would have munched bearings by now i think

 

Are you using a filter with a decent anti-drainback valve? Usually, that much lag in oil pressure means you're filling the filter can.

 

Purolator right now, and previously a K&N IIRC. Once the car has been started and oil circulated, warm re-starts never have a lag like that.

If there IS actually a problem, I suspect the check valve on the oil pump, or a small air leak in the pickup tube or something, because once it's been started for the day it never has a delay in registering pressure on the gauge.

That said, I'm going to keep driving it for now. Building a motor with a fresh oil pump and goodies on the side, just hoping to not spin a bearing on this motor before that happens.

That said, this car is so much ******* fun I've found some motivation to work on it. I have all the parts for the engine build chilling in my shop, just gotta dedicate some time and effort to the matter ASAP.

 

Better do it before snowboarding season.

 

You know me too well. This is the plan. I'd like to make some progress this weekend actually, going to hone cylinders at the very least.

 

Hey guys, did some searching but I have a question for anyone who might see this:

When "balancing" my oem piston's weight, where is a suitable place to grind of material from the piston. I've already ground down a few of the more obvious places, but only shed about 1G of weight so far from the heaviest piston (it's close to 8G heavier than my lightest one). I read somewhere else that any casting marks or "protrusions" inside of the piston can be ground flat, is this true?

I weighed my ebay rods and they all came in at the exact same weight.

 

Did you see this thread?

https://www.miataturbo.net/engine-pe...8l-dohc-65235/

 

I did not. Is that a legitimate way of shaving grams off an oem piston? crazy.