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Old 04-21-2013, 05:54 PM   #41
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BEGI's kit, for my WHP goals, will cost me more than a TDR kit.

If my old NA coldside will work on my new car, (with minor adjustments) than all I have to worry about is the cooler and hotside, so I figure $500 max on that?

You are referring to the precision wittyworks had linked, aren't you?

I understand your point, and that's why I want others opinions and thoughts on how I should go about this build. I don't want it half assed like my old car and you people are the ones keeping me from doing so
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Old 04-21-2013, 06:02 PM   #42
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yep. Precision is awesomesauce

and yes, your coldside should work just fine.
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Old 04-21-2013, 06:12 PM   #43
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Then I need a Precision & hotside. Seems like that problem is solved, for now.

This coming up week should be a good one. I should have 5 packages coming in that will get me closer and much more eager to get the car turbo'd.

I miss boost. Driving the fastback is cool, cause fastback, but this car needs much more attention! There are a few guys locally I really want to run. One is pretty personal about an argument we had a year ago. I really want this car to not just beat but smoke his *** to finally shut him up. The suspense is killing me!
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Old 04-22-2013, 04:36 PM   #44
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Taking a few things to one of my buddies sponsors to get ceramic coated, what all should I take? Figured I would do the manifold and downpipe, what about the turbo turbine housing? it being an internal wastegate would it stick or seize some how during the coating process?
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Old 04-22-2013, 05:13 PM   #45
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I coated my turbine housing. No issues.
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Old 04-22-2013, 05:44 PM   #46
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FowlerMotorsports View Post
Taking a few things to one of my buddies sponsors to get ceramic coated, what all should I take? Figured I would do the manifold and downpipe, what about the turbo turbine housing? it being an internal wastegate would it stick or seize some how during the coating process?
Depends on who's coating it. Most places the coating process involves media blasting it, then painting it with a paint that has some small ceramic ***** in it then baking it at somewhere around 500*F for a little while. Where as swain and the place in socal that I cant remember the name of, media blast it, then spray a thicker layer of ceramic (not paint) at somewhere north of 1000*F and let that cool at a certain rate.

On the intercooler front. Why are you so stuck on a high end intercooler. Is the extra weight reduction and slight gain in efficiency really worth it to you? I mean sure the CX racing IC I have is like a 20 pound boat anchor, but its built like a tank, I may have stepped on it by accident and its still fine. I'm actually really surprised with how good the welds are and the actually core design at least looks decent for efficiency. Although I too plan to go to a baller IC once its in the budget in order to cut some weight off the front of the car and maybe get some better efficiency.
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Old 04-22-2013, 06:38 PM   #47
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Quote:
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I coated my turbine housing. No issues.
Thank you sir!

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On the intercooler front. Why are you so stuck on a high end intercooler. Is the extra weight reduction and slight gain in efficiency really worth it to you? I mean sure the CX racing IC I have is like a 20 pound boat anchor, but its built like a tank, I may have stepped on it by accident and its still fine. I'm actually really surprised with how good the welds are and the actually core design at least looks decent for efficiency. Although I too plan to go to a baller IC once its in the budget in order to cut some weight off the front of the car and maybe get some better efficiency.
More air flow, smoother IAT readings. I don't see any reason purchasing a "ok" cooler til I can afford a good one, i'm just buying what I need now and not worrying about it later. That's just how I roll
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Old 04-22-2013, 06:43 PM   #48
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There isn't a slight cooling efficiency difference. There's a significant one. Which matters a whole lot when running high boost and on pump gas.

So yeah, don't listen to him lol
Get a good heat exchanger.
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Old 04-22-2013, 08:48 PM   #49
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There isn't a slight cooling efficiency difference. There's a significant one. Which matters a whole lot when running high boost and on pump gas.

So yeah, don't listen to him lol
Get a good heat exchanger.
I didn't plan on it lol

On my way home from work I had so many people stare at the car. A few people would slow down... look around.. speed up... no badges? Their faces are priceless.

One package delivered, missed one from FedEx, should receive 3 tomorrow
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Old 04-25-2013, 02:26 AM   #50
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Got a few things done tonight, installed my new Hard Dog and my DW300 fuel pump. Removed the carpet to find a note written in sharpie that the fuel pumps been replaced a few months ago, so now I have a spare bosch pump on hand!

Roll bar wasn't as easy as I had thought it would be. Getting a drill for the back mounts was a pain, I ended up only bolting down 2 of the 3 bolt holes it gives you.

I think i'm all set for boost. Car is all cleaned up, waxing it this weekend, most likely visiting the local track and showing off the new ride, if only it was boosted

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Old 04-25-2013, 10:12 AM   #51
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That's about as 180* difference from your first build as you could get and still stick with a Miata chassis. I'm trying to think of another modified NB that color and am drawing a blank, so bonus points for relative rarity.
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Old 04-25-2013, 10:32 AM   #52
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It's rare to see a fastback, a color matched mahogany mica fastback? First ever I think.

This build is much better than my old pig. I'm loving it more and more each day, besides no dam boost lol
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Old 04-25-2013, 10:37 AM   #53
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I sure would try to get that third bolt in. Aren't you supposed to use an extra-long drill bit?
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Old 04-25-2013, 11:38 AM   #54
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I will have it bolted down this weekend, I was to tired to finish the last bolt last night.
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Old 04-25-2013, 02:40 PM   #55
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Right-angle drill ftw.
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Old 04-25-2013, 03:22 PM   #56
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drill bit extension ftw as well.
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Old 04-25-2013, 05:53 PM   #57
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I have a better idea, was just way to tired last night. Just going to drill through the bottom side. The brackets given have holes, so drilling through it will just end up going through the bracket the roll bar is welded to. Shouldn't take me but 10 mins.

Moar goodies showed up. Snow Meth Stage 3 and SuperMiata pulley.

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Old 04-25-2013, 06:37 PM   #58
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Recency bias: My most recent experience with meth and water injection was back in the mid-aughts with Evos and Supras. I saw way too many damaged engines to ever want to run it.

That ignores lots of other people who have had success and what I am sure is plenty of updates in terms of safety measures and ECU control advances.
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Old 04-25-2013, 07:02 PM   #59
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I will have to play around with it to get use to it. Stage 3 comes with its own controller but debating on setting it up on the new MS3. I just hope to be as legit as hornetball's setup where it will lower my boost if/when I run out of meth.

Exhaust stuff gets picked up here soon, ceramic coating will be done by next weekend!
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Old 04-26-2013, 11:49 AM   #60
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Automatic safeties are critical for WI. Otherwise, what Scrappy said.

I am extremely happy with the safeties I setup for mine. It was easy and inexpensive to do. I've posted the wiring diagrams and theory of operation. Any questions, just let me know.
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