Yup, just the 2 wires, doesn't even matter if you hook them up backwards.

I'm using the new Adaptronic stand-alone Select ECU - now that they have an alternator input, Idle tuning is SO much easier than with the earlier piggyback versions.

- visuals are good :P

 

Well that certainly didn't take long. Who did you **** off on a Sunday morning?

 

No one. Y8s is a pathetic douche canoe.
I don't know if trolling or serious or what.

 

Someone had a bit too much to drink on Saturday night.

 

Yep, I'm guessing he dipped into his liquor too hard. It's all good.

 

On a less idiotic note,

My car starts perfectly now. No more long cranking. I have no idea how or why, the only thing that changed was the injectors.

I'll post up settings after I try it with e85 in case I spoke too soon. The last couple startups were PERFECT. Just like OEM

 

Dibs on ID725s when you part out.

 

I want the engine when it stops starting. Oregon has a good history of making them work.

 

Post a couple of start-up logs at different temps, with the settings.

 

Will do. Just tried it right now, car was dead cold, (though it's like 75* outside) and it took 2 seconds, just like OEM.

I don't expect this motor to "stop working" any time soon aidan, and if it does for some reason, CA also has a good history of making them work

 

My '94 with an MS2e did the exactly same thing... with the canned tune.

Then, somehow along the way, I switched something. And now it does that whole "three second" start that I was warned was common with a MS installed.

Eventually I'll reload the canned tune and update the minimal bits as required to see what's going on... 'cause I should have left well enough alone.

But didn't.

 

Hes not gonna part it out, hes just gonna sell it all

 

Verified this morning, perfect startup. I was so happy I couldn't stop grinning on my way to work.
Got so excited I forgot to take a log lol. Will do later.

 

I would love a copy of your tune. My start up is still not great. I would like to go through one setting at a time and see what exactly is making the difference for you.

 

Let me finish it up and then we can compare notes. In the meantime, I figured out the difference between "longer to crank before start" and "perfect" yesterday, perhaps this will help you: it was my VE map. Specifically the >1000rpm and >100kpa region. This is very important to have dialed in, and will affect the way the car starts EVEN IF your prime/crank/ase/wue is dialed in correctly.

I always knew this was the case, but didn't realize it was that important. Leaned out that region yesterday and the car went back to taking slightly longer to start. Undid that part and it went back to OEM startup



On another note, on today's menu is......


....CORN JUICE

The results? Magnificent of course

Seriously..........I never cease to be pleasantly surprised by this stuff. VD to compare to before: same road, same everything, timing UNTOUCHED, only boost raised about 1 psi and VE map slightly tweaked up top cause it was leaning out a little bit.
EDIT********************
The plots were both wrong, I forgot to change the final drive in VD to 4.1 since it defaults to 3.9 on the Miata 6 speed.

Here are the fixed dyno plots:


Now I know this is VD, so who knows how close it is to a real dynojet (although supposed to be close), but all I gotta say is: car RIPS, and I really want to get it on a dyno and re-visit the track soon. If the 201 resulted in a 13.8@102.8, then I think 13.5@105 might be possible with 222

That is all

PS: this is literally the 1st tank of mixed e85 probably more like e70 and I just kinda roughed in the fuel map, fine tuning later. Did I say how much I like this stuff?

 

Is your E85 down there actually E85? I mean the best in WA is about 80-81!

 

That's a good question. I have no idea hahaha
I've heard numerous times that it was e85 year round and actually really good quality, but have yet to test some myself. I've run it for years and never had 1 single issue.

I guess that's on the to do list for sometime

 

I read somewhere that in order to not pay alcoholic beverage taxes, when they sell ethanol it has to have been mixed with something to make it undrinkable. Since it's being sold for fuel purpose, they mix in a few percent of gasoline, making it E96 or something. "E85" is then made by using 85% of the diluted ethanol and 15% of straight gas, so it winds up being 81-ish percent ethanol.

--Ian

 

Thanks, yes this will help I'm sure. I've messed with some of those cells but not to 100kpa. Will try going all the way up there and see how it works.

 

Does the pro handle an ethanol sensor?