well, im atleast hoping the osgiken does not detonate as fast as the torsen.. the worm gears inside the torsen were showing signs of damage after 5000 miles of very hard use. and the inside wheel was slipping in 3-4gear turns.. im really looking forward to testing the osg diff. but right now we have about 70cm snow. so it will have to wait a few months

 

and too think, all that work and Hyper's miata is still faster than yours because its not weighed down by a turbo

 

Just screw some spikes into your tires and go for it! I'll bet you would be the first to race a 400 HP Turbo Miata with a OSGiken diff on ice. It will be groundbreaking or at least somethingbreaking

 

What are your front brakes?


My understanding of the theory behind the dual chamber manifold is that it's basically like the turbine inducer, but unwrapped from the snail into a straight log. It takes the rapidly moving intake charge and discharges it through a slot to the slow-moving, high-pressure charge in the manifold very efficiently, with little turbulence.

 

theory is that it also distributes the flow very evenly across the entire "log"

we have buildt similar manifolds on everything from 600whp saab engines for racing, to "mild" streetracing bmw e30's. with very good results.

front brakes are hispec 4pot calipers over something im guessing are the corrado g60 discs. using ferodo pads. mazdaspeed master sylinder and brake booster. goodwin rear disc upgrade. all in all a very confidence inspiring setup. car easily does over 200kph on a very small track and it still feels safe to brake very late.

 

Mazda MX5

Says your kit uses "D" calipers. Don't think it's the Corrado rotor, as if I recall, that is only 280mm.

Ran the numbers today, and it looks like you're really front-biased, about the same as if you just put the '01-05 Sport brakes on the front, but not the rear. You'd have a lot better brake balance if you either changed to the C calipers with 34.6mm pistons on your current setup, or changed to the actual Sport brakes on the rear, with a 35mm piston. With the larger gain from the Sport booster as discussed by Keith over at M.net recently, you should be okay for effort with the smaller front pistons and have a righteous pedal feel.

 

put in a sensor at one of the rear wheels today, so the ecu will have a proper speed reading of the rear axle. also putting in sensors up front. experimenting with gear based boost, variable traction control

 

What is that sensor using for a reading? aka what is giving it a signal? the brake rotor mounting spots coming within a certain distance?

I am looking into setting up a telemetry setup for my car to get it dialed in (and make traction control) and this would be essential

 

it is seeing the metal backside of the wheelbolts as they go by the sensor at around 1.5mm distance.

 

I only wish you made more video's of this beast. I've watched and drooled over your old ones 100 times already

 

hey **** you :P from cali i see? you guys dont have winter :P









a 400whp miata is not exactly suited to the conditions we have in winter.


give me a few months, and i will start posting some vids again getting the gopro HD too..

 

Oh ****

Ok I get it

 

BTW, just HAVE to share this vid.. friends of mine made a GHETTO dyno, to learn how to tune their even more Ghetto rides.. thing is tho.. they use cheapass solutions. but this **** actually works.. rear mount turbo ls1 in a 200sx s13

YouTube - Driftfun and Haga Homemade Dynotest LS1 s13 2010

heres a vid of the car before turbo
Powerdrift Norwegian License day 2009 on Vimeo

 

That's awesome

Its ghetto, but it works, so its awesome.

 

oh man that was so ghetto and awesome

 

The dyno is awesome even though many will say it's not safe, etc. I had visions of a similar device once. If you install a flywheel of some type to the drive axle input (output) it will greatly increase the inertial load available to simulate the dyno load. It could even be a complete drivetrain with the transmission (different load gears) and use a flywheel there.

 

they are already using the air brakes .. planning other additional ways of adding more resistance..

 

I did notice the brakes were still on there.

 

took the engine out today.. dooing som small mods..

brace between the downpipe and transmission.. changing the wastegate to a V band unit. fixing a small leak near the oilpan, general checkup etc..

pics of the downpipe brace..



3mm stainless steel. solid as hell.

also included are some general pics of the engine, and specifically the coolant reroute setup on my engine.

 

I love that motor . We need more videos of this thing!