Golferluke

Obviously hydrolock is a real thing but I havnt seen an example of it happening without the filter being fully submerged. Unfortunately I've tested my miatas resistance to water. I drove through about a foot of water (don't ask) in my car this spring. When it happend and I realized how deep it was I was certain I had just hydro'd my motor but surprisingly not even a hesitation. I have my filter mounted over/between the ps pump and the left headlight and no bottom tray. Not cold air location but probably the worst spot in the bay for water. Oh and I'm lowered, front lip is about 3.5-4"

hornetball

iTrader: (4)

Why not just reuse the existing intercooler piping that used to go from the IC to the TB for now? Stick a cone where the IC used to be. One less hole to patch in your ducting. Add polish later with Abe.

johnwag

iTrader: (3)

Hustler has already started losing sleep on this project and we're still building the car! lol

miatauser884

iTrader: (11)

In for badass reliableness.

emilio700

iTrader: (3)

We ran our intakes over the rad for a while but kept getting surprised by rain. We may have hurt one motor by running the filter out front in the rain. Reverted to a 22" 180° 2.5" pipe with the filter next to the manifold. Might make 2-3whp less on top but the filter stays clean. Try to keep the length under 23" TB plate to transition area in filter.

curly

iTrader: (25)

See that's what I said, but now that you've said it, he'll probably actually listen.

Changing intakes for a few lower rpm torques should be the bottom of your priority list when it starts raining. You need to protect sensitive tools and electronics, and switch tires.

hustler

iTrader: (6)

I CANNOT FABRICATE ANYTHING SO I NEED SOMETHING OFF-THE-SHELF!!!!
If you have one of those lying around the shop that you're willing to sell me, I'll pay top dollar. I'm about to just buy something from some company making **** intakes.

Exhaust is still a huge problem, the one we planned on running won't fit. Right now I think my best bet is to order an RB from 949 or get something cheap from Ebay. I'd like to get something fancy that will make ultimate power, but I don't have the time nor money...and I need to stay under 99db. The FM muffler looks huge and over-quiet. the RB looks lighter and still under the sound limit.

CRYPTiC

949 doesn't list the Fujitsubo RM01A on their website any more, but 949 is nearby to TEIN,so that might be an option for you...

18psi

iTrader: (76)

you need to keep in mind the car will get a lot louder without the turbo. A LOT.

curly

iTrader: (25)

Do you want my 2.5" exhaust? Lol.

And why can't you fab anything? Too nervous? Man you would save so much money if you lived near me. Or near anyone that can fabricate.

hustler

iTrader: (6)

I don't own a welder, don't have space for one, and don't know what I'm doing.

Mobius

iTrader: (2)

All of Trey's working space is represented in the photo he posted earlier. The car has to go in there. He doesn't have a dedicated workspace other than that.
Edit - correct me if I'm wrong, Hustler, that's my understanding from previous posts you have made.

Speaking as someone who has only just recently ever welded his first stuff together, sure anyone can start welding thin mild steel together for about $150 total investment at harbor frieight, but welding stuff together for realz, stuff that you have to depend on, requires a minimum skill level in welding and an investment in decent welding equipment. I totally understand why Trey doesn't want to try to throw together a manifold or an exhaust that he intends to compete with, as his first foray into welding.

hustler

iTrader: (6)

Yep, this is my workspace:

I have the tire trailer in there too.

I just bought a silicone intake from TDR for $100, I had to pull the trigger on something.

emilio700

iTrader: (3)

CX Racing on ebay is a good source for tubes. That's where we get most of our stock to start messing with. A plain 180* U shape, silicone coupler and a few hose clamps is all you need.

For street cars needing an EO for emissions we offer the K&N kit but its $180. CX is the way to go for a simple non-emissions compliant track intake.

hustler

iTrader: (6)

I also may have to sell the turbo stuff at this point, I am very out of cash. Big time. The good/bad news is that I'm probably going out of town on Friday for 1-2 weeks. I still need to get the radiator in the car, get exhaust bought and installed, get a test-pipe made, road tune, dyno tune, corner balance, align, and mount one set of tires prior to 9/14. This is going to be tough, I plan on sleeping at lot on the track weekend.

Ideally the less than optimum exhaust and less than optimum intake can be used on the daily when I do the VVT swap in that car...which I'm really not looking forward to. Again, really not looking forward to that. Unfortunately the fuel economy has gone to ****, telling me it's pretty much over for that engine.

curly

iTrader: (25)

We were discussing the intake. Can you drill and tap? That doesn't require welding.

You need more tool storage and shelves. I have a similarly sized garage, looks almost exactly the same size. I have two tool boxes, two shelves, welder, drill press, table top grinder, and plenty of other tools. Just gotta orgainize.

glade

iTrader: (2)

+1 I did this exact thing on my spare 99+ manifold, took all of ten minutes, never had a problem with it.

Midtenn

iTrader: (15)

Buy tube from CX Racing, overnight from where ever, order IAT bung from McMaster-Carr, overnight from Atlanta, find local welder, have job done for $50. Make friends with said welder and maybe they'll be nice and do it for free.

rleete

iTrader: (21)

Agreed. Get that stuff off the floor, and you'll have more room to move around. Cheap (Horrible Fright) tool chests are cheap.

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

Water injection. You can get dust/water bags for filters. My filter is often waterlogged after a drive in the rain due to my naca duct and positioning.